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New reverse gear needed

Extreedoc

Extreedoc

Big Landy Fan
I have a stripped suffix D gearbox on my bench and I need a new reverse gear and shaft, part numbers FRC1810 and FRC 1813 respectively. LRseries have them both in genuine and in blue box, the price difference is striking: £27.09 for the Britpart bits and £70.79 for the genuine bits. Bearing in mind that the choice is usually obvious I still have the nagging doubt... has anybody had any problems with BP gears? I think I know how this will go but I'm interested and have no experience of any mechanical BP part. Your input will be much valued.
 
Shop around a bit more. There are several other suppliers. I went for a mix of Bearmach and BP bits and was happy with both. On things like the 3/4 synchro (Bearmach) the price difference even bigger - LR £160, BM £55 BP £50. I went for Bearmach on the often used parts 3/4 synchro, 3rd gear, and BP for the less critical 1st gear. Everything fitted, Bearmach syncho was a bit tight but has run in fine, the only possible saving is metal quality and short of doing a hardness test that's a gamble even with the LR parts. When I spoke to a gear box specialist before deciding to do it myself he told me that customers sometimes supplied him with all genuine LR gears to fit but he often found that they were cheaper copies in LR boxes. Best money I spent was £60 on a mobile mechanic to help me lift the box in: I put the box next to the Landy, floors out tunnel out, and said job ends when 2 bolts are in the bell houseing.
 
Extreedoc said:
I have a stripped suffix D gearbox on my bench and I need a new reverse gear and shaft, part numbers FRC1810 and FRC 1813 respectively. LRseries have them both in genuine and in blue box, the price difference is striking: £27.09 for the Britpart bits and £70.79 for the genuine bits. Bearing in mind that the choice is usually obvious I still have the nagging doubt... has anybody had any problems with BP gears? I think I know how this will go but I'm interested and have no experience of any mechanical BP part. Your input will be much valued.
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Because its such a b******e of a job comon sence says go for genuine but the price says go for britpart i have never had any problems with britpart and as the reverse gear is not used as often as the others.
Few years ago i fitted a new mainshaft into a series 111 box it never came in a blue box/bag but the price told me it was BP I put it into a series11 109 behind a Perkins 4236 out of a combine harvester it was great untill i towed a trailer with about 3 tonnes of sand/gravel/cement and tools up the warren hill in Deeside flat out in third gear i also had a high ratio transfer box in it and 8.25 tyres so it was a hard pull at the top of the hill it was stuck in third gear and stayed there the only way i could split that box was with a angle grinder the gears were blue and welded to the shaft.
On examination the shaft passed inspection and i have just fitted it in a re-built box thats going in my landy any day now.
The seized box was nothing to do with a BP part it was because it was behind an engine twice as powerfull as the burma type box was designed for and pulling a higher gear with bigger tyres.
I would have no problem fitting a BP part for any gear and you should have no trouble using it in a reverse gear.
Wally
 
Thanks for the replies Rob and Wally, what you have said is very interesting to me and I am slowly coming round to the cheaper parts. The rest of the gear train looks good at first inspection though I am yet to dismantle it completely. I was surprised to see the springs in the 3rd/4th synchro still in place and looking sound. I was expecting to find at least one missing and lying mangled in the casing because the reverse gear has obviously had a good chew on something hard and has one mangled tooth which is bad enough to cause a click, click, click in reverse; I was expecting a missing tooth.
So far, I reckon a new 1st motion shaft bearing and possibly a rear mainshaft bearing are the only other parts I will need, apart of course from seals and gaskets. Nearly forgot: thrust washers for the intermediate gear in the transfer box.

PS: Can anybody recommend suppliers?
 
Thanks Zollaf, I've seen the Cyprus guy, he is a good supplier?

I include pics of the various internals, the 1st and 2nd gears look ok to me, also a pic of the reverse gear showing the mangled tooth. 100_1604.resized.JPG100_1605.resized.JPG100_1607.resized.JPG
 
mr cyprus is very good, had a few bits off him. you need to check the actual internal teeth, the ones that engage the gear, not the gear teeth. if they are not worn then its the only series 3 box that isn't. to check them you need the whole syncro hub off.
 
zollaf said:
mr cyprus is very good, had a few bits off him. you need to check the actual internal teeth, the ones that engage the gear, not the gear teeth. if they are not worn then its the only series 3 box that isn't. to check them you need the whole syncro hub off.
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Yes, I realised my mistake too late (as usual), of course you were talking about the synchro hub, I will have a second look tomorrow and maybe post a pic or two.
 
I used LR direct for the gears becuase I could get everyting from one place and they offered the choice of suppliers. Actually what I liked was they tell you who the supplier is unlike many others. I also used "shop4autoparts", as they were recommended by Rocky Moutain for Overdrive parts as they get the parts made in Coventry (so they are top of the "food chain") Got new O/D input shaft, excelent quality and about £150
 
robwlondon said:
I used LR direct for the gears becuase I could get everyting from one place and they offered the choice of suppliers. Actually what I liked was they tell you who the supplier is unlike many others. I also used "shop4autoparts", as they were recommended by Rocky Moutain for Overdrive parts as they get the parts made in Coventry (so they are top of the "food chain") Got new O/D input shaft, excelent quality and about £150
Click to expand...

These are first class suppliers Rob, I have visited both sites and bookmarked them. Thank you.
 
Always worth a phone call to Dunsfold DLR, I needed a pinion oil seal housing for a rover diff which I couldn't find online. Dunsfold took one complete with oil seal off of a military recon diff and posted it to me no problem. I used paddocks for a few series bits but it's hard work dealing with someone who doesn't know or understand series landrovers. The chap at Dunsfold knew series part numbers in his head and was mega helpful to me.


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Here are the pics of the 1st/2nd synchro hub and corresponding teeth on 1st and 2nd gears. They don't look too bad to me but I would value the opinions of anybody with more experience of LR gearboxes than me. I hope the pics turn out clear enough.

100_1608.resized.JPG 100_1609.resized.JPG 100_1610.resized.JPG100_1611.resized.JPG
 
I was just checking the 3rd/4th synchro hub in my box following reading this thread, thought I would try to find neutral & cut my thumb on the 1st/2nd selector!


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mrs z just looked at them and she said they are no good, teeth worn and need replacing. no good is not the word she used, it was worse than that, so best to get new ones.
 
zollaf said:
mrs z just looked at them and she said they are no good, teeth worn and need replacing. no good is not the word she used, it was worse than that, so best to get new ones.
Click to expand...

Then I'll bow to Mrs Zs superior knowledge, I know she is a gearbox expert. I supose I will see the difference when I get the new bit. RTC2685 I believe? New baulk rings too 591364. Do you think I need new 1st and 2nd gears as well?

I wanted to ask about the baulk rings, I have read that some modern replacements are not lasting long due to the profile of the grooves in the cone being machined to a point instead of being flat on top. Any comments/observations?
 
the actual gears look fine. the baulk rings should be good, we rarely replace them. your hubs arn't that bad, but are worn and will only get worse, and this results in the gears dropping out on the over run. we have seen worse, but new ones are sharp, not rounded. obviously its better to see them in the flesh rather than a photo though.
 
Great, so just the synchro hub then? The baulk rings are working fine, they bind on the cones perfectly. It will certainly save me a pot of cash if I don't need those other two gears.

I'm inclined to leave the springs in the 3rd/4th synchro hub well alone too, they are all present and I don't know about the quality of any replacement ones. What do you and Mrs Z think?
 
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