Don't put too much pressure on when sanding back. The particles clump together and stick to the arches creating small bumps which show when you spray. Took me ages to get rid of them when I made this mistake.
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Range Rover Classic Restoration
- Thread starter helimadken
- Start date
Good tip, thanks
helimadken
Shifting Up
Cheers
Apologies for the lack of updates but its the same boring stuff I am going through prepping for paint which takes me some time.
I have gone through the 180 > Prime > 400 dry sanding on all the parts. Now I am working my way through the final 800 wet sand, got the 4 doors and deck panel done these have been put away safe in various locations around the house -
Have I got a fantastic wife or what!
Just about to start the 800 stage on the bonnet -
And the wings -
Happy to use 800 at this stage as I will be using an adhesion promoter to make sure I have a good key.
I am hoping to get the rear face of the wings stone protected and gloss blacked by the end of the week then I can get the Alaskan blue painting done.
I have also been distracted for a couple of days trying to fix one of my bikes, its a 1980 CBX1000C which I restored from a total wreck a couple of years ago -
I drained the carbs completely last October but starting up for the first time she is running rough as hell, got spark, compression, timing is spot on and fresh fuel. Currently in denial as I know I am going to have to take the carbs off to clean them, on a CBX it is a major task. Frustratingly the bike sat in a garage in Michigan for 20 years and started up first prod of the throttle just by adding fresh fuel. Bloody Ethanol fuel its crap, I cant get super around here no one stocks it.
Here is the bike running beautifully last May on a outing with the Galloway Classic Bike Club through the Mennock Pass -
Hopefully I will have an better update next week for you
Apologies for the lack of updates but its the same boring stuff I am going through prepping for paint which takes me some time.
I have gone through the 180 > Prime > 400 dry sanding on all the parts. Now I am working my way through the final 800 wet sand, got the 4 doors and deck panel done these have been put away safe in various locations around the house -
Have I got a fantastic wife or what!
Just about to start the 800 stage on the bonnet -
And the wings -
Happy to use 800 at this stage as I will be using an adhesion promoter to make sure I have a good key.
I am hoping to get the rear face of the wings stone protected and gloss blacked by the end of the week then I can get the Alaskan blue painting done.
I have also been distracted for a couple of days trying to fix one of my bikes, its a 1980 CBX1000C which I restored from a total wreck a couple of years ago -
I drained the carbs completely last October but starting up for the first time she is running rough as hell, got spark, compression, timing is spot on and fresh fuel. Currently in denial as I know I am going to have to take the carbs off to clean them, on a CBX it is a major task. Frustratingly the bike sat in a garage in Michigan for 20 years and started up first prod of the throttle just by adding fresh fuel. Bloody Ethanol fuel its crap, I cant get super around here no one stocks it.
Here is the bike running beautifully last May on a outing with the Galloway Classic Bike Club through the Mennock Pass -
Hopefully I will have an better update next week for you
The worst bit is how it reacts with/absorbs moisture from air. Is there a simple(ish) way you can maybe bung the system and apply a light vacuum to it during storage? Won't be a wonder fix, but it will help.
You are very fortunate being able to store various parts of the RR around the house..........I wouldn't dare, it would be more than my life is worth
helimadken
Shifting Up
Wife cant complain, two of the five bedrooms are completely free of Range Rover partsYou are very fortunate being able to store various parts of the RR around the house..........I wouldn't dare, it would be more than my life is worth
-Well at least they are free for the time being
although I am eyeing up the Porch as a possible home for the painted bonnetIt does help having a wife who loves cars and motor racing, particularly F1 (for over 30 years by the way not a 'drive to survive' newby), and can see the end game ultimately of having a nice car, oh and a house free of Range Rover parts!
helimadken
Shifting Up
Couple of very bland photos just to show where I am up to. Wings and quarter panels have had their inside faces painted first with some Gravitex stonechip then gloss black -
So tomorrow the garage gets a deep clean then if the weather is ok I can start getting colour on, cant wait!
So tomorrow the garage gets a deep clean then if the weather is ok I can start getting colour on, cant wait!
Your inner wing looks better than my whole vehicle.
helimadken
Shifting Up
Got the rear wings painted yesterday, very pleased with the results a couple of bits in the clear coat but they will cut and polish out -
So this is a medium wet coat of adhesion promoter/sealer, the main purpose of this coat being to fill in any remaining sanding marks. Then 3 coats of basecoat, first applied medium dry, second applied medium wet then finally a 'Drop Coat' which is applied medium dry from a further distance, this is to even out the application and bring the metallic element out in the paint, its often called an 'Effect' or 'Orientation' coat for this reason. Each coat is given enough time to flash off. Then finally 3 coats of clear first applied medium dry which acts both as a keying coat and to stabilise the following coats preventing sags. The 2 last coats are applied wet.
Took this picture not long after I finished painting the sun really shows the metallic element -
All my preparation has paid off as the panels are really straight, trying to show it here (disregard the shadow of the blown double glazing unit) -
Really pleased with the colour, I dont think its a particularly good match to the original I think it has more blue in it, but then the car was 37 years old and the paint pretty bleache. Outside in the sun this morning you can see its a lighter colour than the camera shows in the garage -
Front wings are next
So this is a medium wet coat of adhesion promoter/sealer, the main purpose of this coat being to fill in any remaining sanding marks. Then 3 coats of basecoat, first applied medium dry, second applied medium wet then finally a 'Drop Coat' which is applied medium dry from a further distance, this is to even out the application and bring the metallic element out in the paint, its often called an 'Effect' or 'Orientation' coat for this reason. Each coat is given enough time to flash off. Then finally 3 coats of clear first applied medium dry which acts both as a keying coat and to stabilise the following coats preventing sags. The 2 last coats are applied wet.
Took this picture not long after I finished painting the sun really shows the metallic element -
All my preparation has paid off as the panels are really straight, trying to show it here (disregard the shadow of the blown double glazing unit) -
Really pleased with the colour, I dont think its a particularly good match to the original I think it has more blue in it, but then the car was 37 years old and the paint pretty bleache. Outside in the sun this morning you can see its a lighter colour than the camera shows in the garage -
Front wings are next
Looks excellent from the photos. I take it you have professional painting experience. Not sure I follow the terminology you're using though, or understand the distinctions in coat types. I'd very much me interested to know more if you have the time to explain.
I have a lot of my own painting to do so having a better understanding of the steps I should take would be very welcome.
I already painted my S3 bulkhead which looks pretty good to my eyes, so I have a fair understanding of doing good prep. I'm using paintman coach enamel over an undercoat with a clear varnish coat on top. Priming was done using epoxy primer (sealer) and a lot of sanding smooth.
I have a lot of my own painting to do so having a better understanding of the steps I should take would be very welcome.
I already painted my S3 bulkhead which looks pretty good to my eyes, so I have a fair understanding of doing good prep. I'm using paintman coach enamel over an undercoat with a clear varnish coat on top. Priming was done using epoxy primer (sealer) and a lot of sanding smooth.
helimadken
Shifting Up
No not professional experience at all, just enjoy painting which is half the battle.
I think you hit the nail on the head with preparation, if thats done correctly then everything else falls into place.
The degree of wetness you apply depends on the type of paint. With most gloss paints you would apply them wet forming a ''wet edge' as you overlap each pass with the spray gun. This isnt as easy as it sounds as you have to balance getting just the right amount of paint to form the gloss without ending up with sags or folds. Enamels can be quite tricky to apply so if you are getting good results then you are doing well in this respect.
I learnt early on not to skimp on the paint gun. The difference between your average Clarke spray gun and a good quality Devilbiss or Iwata gun for example is amazing. They atomise the paint completely and spray in a very even fan pattern. Cheaper guns dont do this so well and apply the paint unevenly so its much easier to get blotchy results or sags.
The process I am using at the moment involves a Polyester metallic basecoat and an Acrylic clear coat. Polyester metallic basecoat isnt like ordinary paints its very thin and because it contains metallic particles to an extent cant be sprayed using the wet edge technique otherwise you will get streaks and pools of particles forming. This is why I described the process above as being various degrees of wetness.
These are solvent based paints which have the advantage of 'flashing' quickly so you do have less chance of sags forming and less time for bits of fluff to land in the paint. The disadvantage relates to health issues so I use a pressure fed air mask fed by a separate compressor and full overalls, gloves etc.
Hope this helps, I am not a professional as I said. I am sure professionals would scoff at everything I describe so please dont take my word on painting as gospel, this is just how I have built up my experience and it seems to work for me.
Looking really good @helimadken , love the colour. This Range Rover is gonna look better than when it rolled out of Solihull !!
neither am I, I used a roller and paint brush when I first painted the landy!!
today (probably the worst day to paint, it was windy), I used a rattle can of primer to start patching up the flaky paint.
if a professional would scoff at you, I hate to think what they'd do to me........
Paint is really hard to photograph, because even crap stuff looks amazing on a photo.
That low angle shot is exactly the kind of picture you need to really show off how well the panel is as well as the paint finish.
Both are stunning.
You paint better than pretty much any backstreet painter i've ever met/used.
That low angle shot is exactly the kind of picture you need to really show off how well the panel is as well as the paint finish.
Both are stunning.
You paint better than pretty much any backstreet painter i've ever met/used.
SeriesG
Offroader
I'll second that. I've seen folks do nice bodywork at home but I've never seen paint done that well in a home shop. Very nice work!
helimadken
Shifting Up
Thanks for the encouragement everyone, I hope I can keep it up.
Front wings done today, paint is still fresh and not fully flowed yet -
Weather over the last couple of days was cold wet and windy so I elected to paint the underside of the deck panel rather than take the chance of the clear blooming. We have had 112mm of rain through April as opposed to 67mm last year, weather has been atrocious -
Next up is the inside faces and shuts of the four doors
Front wings done today, paint is still fresh and not fully flowed yet -
Weather over the last couple of days was cold wet and windy so I elected to paint the underside of the deck panel rather than take the chance of the clear blooming. We have had 112mm of rain through April as opposed to 67mm last year, weather has been atrocious -
Next up is the inside faces and shuts of the four doors
helimadken
Shifting Up
Front door inner faces done today -
I am doing inner then outer faces separately because the doors are quite heavy and trying to lift them up to hang is difficult.
Everyone probably knows this trick but just in case, when you dont want a hard masking line fold one third of the tape over on itself, this gives a soft edge to the joint -
Rear doors tomorrow which will give todays work time to cure
I am doing inner then outer faces separately because the doors are quite heavy and trying to lift them up to hang is difficult.
Everyone probably knows this trick but just in case, when you dont want a hard masking line fold one third of the tape over on itself, this gives a soft edge to the joint -
Absolutely.
Really nice paint job with a lot of attention to detail. Looks like that will cut and polish up nicely. Going to be quite special.
I've binged read this thread and I'm stunned by the quality of @helimadken's work. I look forward to seeing the next update.