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rear wiper wiring, plug

Neil

Neil

Posting Guru
Site Donor
Got a small problem with the wiring to the rear wiper motor.

Would anybody be willing to take a picture of the 3 pin plug and its wiring for the back door wiper on a 110, please?

The wiring on my back door does not match the colours on the diagram and I am having difficulties trying to match things up.

cheers
 
what wire colours have you got from the motor to the 3 pin round connector ?

should be
plain green
brown/light green trace
red/light green trace

is it the original wiper motor, even a aftermarket one should match up at plug/socket connection.
 
Thank you for your kind offer.

I have a green, brown/light green and red/light green.

From the motor I have a brown, a green and a red/grey.

Making the obvious connections did not work
 
had a look mine is plain green, red/light green trace & brown/light green trace as per the bottom wiring diagram attached.

even my early rear wiper wiring shows the same colour codes.
 

Attachments

  • wiring diagram.jpg
    wiring diagram.jpg
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Thank you for your efforts. I have that wiring diagram as well.

Not quite sure why the colours on my wiper motor are not as per the diagram, but that is Land Rover for you
 
It is a replacement motor but the lead which links the motor to the main wiring harness is factory original.

If you remember the lead plugs in inside the rear light box, then plugs into a socket on the wiper motor
 
further investigation inside the rear door reveals the following.

The green and brown cables go to the wiper motor and plug into what is presumably the park switch, there is also an earth to this plug connector
The red/back cable goes to another plugged connecton on the wiper motor (about half way down the motor and on the opposite side of the motor) this plug also has an earth cable.
 
Bear in mind that there are two different wiring schemes - it changed sometime around the tdi300/td5 era.

Either that diagram is for the later wiring, or the depiction of the switch is wrong - I suspect the latter as the later wiring needs one less wire.

In the early wiring, the switch connects one of the <something>/light green wires to the green wire when not parked, and to chassis (black) when parked. That provides power back up the wire when not parked, and chassis (ground) when parked. The switch connects the wire to the motor to either the green wire (for run) or to the return from the switch for off - the motor then runs until it reaches the park position, then the switch shorts the motor to provide electrical braking (to make the motor stop promptly).

In the later system, the switch doesn't short out the motor - there's just two wires (the permanent feed and the switched feed) to the back end. The park switch just provides power when not parked (via a diode IIRC) and there's no shorting out.

IIRC the pin connections are the same, just the later motor has one less wire in the connector. I thought there were 4 or 3 wires respectively (including the black earth wire) - but it's a while since i last worked on one. The later motor will work with the early wiring, but I'm not sure whether the early motor will work properly with the later wiring.
 
Without wanting to hijack the O/P's thread...I'm also going to fit and wire a rear wiper motor in a rear door that hasn't had one fitted,but does appear to have the wiring harness.Could someone please take some measurements of where a hole needs to be drilled in the door for the drive spindle to fit through.Also,on all the diagrams I can find,there doesn't appear to be any kind of cap or gasket to fit around the spindle on the outside to stop any water,is that the case?....cheers.
 
Do you mean the nut that holds the motor assembly in (there's no trim or seal on that), or the nut holding the arm on the inner spindle (there may or may not have been a trim on that - there' hasn't been on any of mine). There is exposed spindle between the arm and the outer spindle tube - there is an O-ring inside the tube, but corrosion between the end and the O-ring does tend to make the shaft got tight over time, needing a stripdown and cleanout to fix.
 
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