• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

swivel housing kits....

dirtmagnet

In Third Gear
Hi All,
yesterday i changed the oil on front n rear axles and had a good look underneath to see if there's any jobs that would alter my priority list!
the drivers side swivel ball housing seal is letting oil out, or is this grease only? in a 2010 def 90, anyway the surface finish in the ball itself is scored and i want to change them and learn about my vehicle, so the more i read the more confused i am regarding aftermarket, OEM or original, also chromed, Nitrotec treated or plain?
and lastly where is a good reliable place to be getting parts from for LR original parts?
i know all of the above is subjective to individuals experiences but any replies will give me more information than i have now and it all helps when making decisions.
thanks,
chris.
 
Me personally I go with a company called DLS over the years they have only let me down once and that was over a cock up with couriers who left it at the wrong door, if you go to them ask to speak to a fella called Paul, very knowledgeable and the thing I found with them they weren't trying to flog it to you, it was always advice first and then if you want to buy it, well buy it.
 
How scored?
Are the swivels chrome from 2010 or had they changed to the ptf type by then?
While it would be lovely to have shiny new balls, they are fekin expensive as original parts, and a few people have thrown doubts about the quality of some of the aftermarket ones.
What Im saying is that a full strip and rebuild with new seals might be fine.
Post some pics of the scoring?
 
You want corteco seals about ÂŁ7 each,are the swivel balls actually worn. Put some pics up they contain grease not oil,there could be a build up of grease. By design they lubricate themselves over time,but oil from the diff can bypass the shaft seals.
 
Defo Cortico.
And if you wanted you can fit stainless retainers for not a lot of dosh;

and fit some gaiters to prevent grot getting in to your lovely new seals.

Unless you do a lot of offroading or wading?
People have mixed views on them used off road as they can leak and hold crap inside rather than protecting the swivels.
I fitted them (leather ones) as mine is mostly road use and some desert tracks etc so I wanted to stop sand getting into my balls (stop it at the back!)
 
thanks for the replies, i cleaned it with rags before the pic, can you see the ruff finish along where it meets the seal........
in my haynes book it says oil but i read in lots of places its grease.
 

Attachments

  • scored ball joint.jpg
    scored ball joint.jpg
    476.8 KB · Views: 39
As @110landycamper says - go with one-shot grease pouches rather than oil - oil will find every possible escape route relatively quickly, and the one shot is designed to lubricate and stay in the swivel longer.

Your swivels don't look too bad - I'd be inclined to fit new seals and retainer plates and forget them for a few more years.

Time consuming of a job getting the seals on, as long as your methodical you'll do it quite easily, just allow plenty of time each side (and buy new bolts for the retaining plate)
 
I replaced mine about 10 years ago, I believe they were Britpart but they were listed as OEM, I remember seeing somewhere that Britpart were the supplier to landrover for the genuine ones. I recently slotted them for castor adjustment when I fitted Ashcroft CVs. Ashcroft recommended a Morris moly grease so that is what I filled mine with.
 

Attachments

  • 20230101_152328.jpg
    20230101_152328.jpg
    348.2 KB · Views: 26
I replaced mine about 10 years ago, I believe they were Britpart but they were listed as OEM, I remember seeing somewhere that Britpart were the supplier to landrover for the genuine ones. I recently slotted them for castor adjustment when I fitted Ashcroft CVs. Ashcroft recommended a Morris moly grease so that is what I filled mine with.
It's funny you say that, I think we all have our preferred suppliers and me is DLS, I talk to a fella called Paul there and he said exactly the same, Britpart are doing that, he didn't say anything in particular parts wise but I was talking about engine parts and that I didn't fancy putting second rate stuff into a 3 grand rebuild and he said that things had definitely improved and they could be trusted, still found it a little hard to take on board but I suppose if Britpart are going to become a trusted entity they are going to have to re-market their clobber and get rid of that dreaded blue box, good shout fella
 
I agree, never gave it a thought to be honest, I suppose thinking about it I don't think I've ever done a seal without going through everything else first but if you have no play, wheel wobble or grey one shot grease mixed with your diff oil I think that's a belting idea, I'm forever looking for the easy option just seems that easy bits trying to dodge me at the moment
 
Some people 'cheat', cut the new seal and then glue it back together after fitting it around the ball. Seems to work, and I would do it as a bush fix, but preferred to rebuild the swivels when I did mine and then you know you should have a few years before needing to do anything again...


I posted this a while back when swivels were discussed. Worth a look;


You dont want to fit cheap swivels;

 
Id never cut a seal unless it was a temporary repair,it's not a seal you want to fail. The bearings driveshafts & steering is not something you want to fall apart.
 
Back
Top Bottom