• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Td5 Fuel Pump Troubleshooting

Highlandman

In Fourth Gear
Mine is a Sept 2006 Defender County Double Cab

We thought we had diesel waxing problems and have now replaced filter and it strated but would not rev ? Then it stopped and would not start again.
Removing filter and turning on ignition no fuel ??
No noise from fuel pump, should there be ?
Engine runs fine if you connect up a seperate supply and pump at the engine block end ?

Any ideas, how do you know if pump is gone.

Would it give warnings like this one acting like diesel is freezing ?

How difficult to change and how much ?
 
The pump should run for few seconds when you turn the ignition on.

I had one fail on a td5 Disco and it still ran but wouldn't rev over 2300 rpm, as you have changed your fuel filter you now have air in the system and without the pump working you can't bleed it.

How cold is it where you are and when did you last fill up?
 
Being a later Td5 you can put it into a priming sequence - some Td5's can be a right pain in the back side when you change the filter.

When you turn the ignition on you should hear the fuel pump running.... but it might not run for that long. To make the pump prime, turn the ignition on and pump the accelerator pedal 5 or 6 times and you should here the fuel pump kick in - and the engine MIL (engine fault light) will start flashing. The ECU will now make the pump run for 30 seconds and then turn off for a few seconds, and then kick in again for 30 seconds. Leave it doing this until the pump either goes quiter, or until the pump makes a continuous noise.

If that doesn't work - there are a few other things you can try.


Ian
 
Being a later Td5 you can put it into a priming sequence - some Td5's can be a right pain in the back side when you change the filter.

When you turn the ignition on you should hear the fuel pump running.... but it might not run for that long. To make the pump prime, turn the ignition on and pump the accelerator pedal 5 or 6 times and you should here the fuel pump kick in - and the engine MIL (engine fault light) will start flashing. The ECU will now make the pump run for 30 seconds and then turn off for a few seconds, and then kick in again for 30 seconds. Leave it doing this until the pump either goes quiter, or until the pump makes a continuous noise.

If that doesn't work - there are a few other things you can try.


Ian

Hey Ian, is that only for later Td5's? I've used that sequence on my 110 as I read somewhere that it's a priming sequence, but presumably, as I have an early Td5, it wasn't making any difference?
 
Hey Ian, is that only for later Td5's? I've used that sequence on my 110 as I read somewhere that it's a priming sequence, but presumably, as I have an early Td5, it wasn't making any difference?

Depends... some early Td5's will not do the cycle. If the MIL lamp was flashing, and you could hear the pump turning on and off then it was working. If no MIL and no pump then it wasn't ;)


Ian
 
Depends... some early Td5's will not do the cycle. If the MIL lamp was flashing, and you could hear the pump turning on and off then it was working. If no MIL and no pump then it wasn't ;)


Ian

Haha! Okay, will check next time I change the filter. Didn't notice the MIL lamp flashing, usually as I'm stood outside the Landy at that point pumping the pedal!
 
Being a later Td5 you can put it into a priming sequence - some Td5's can be a right pain in the back side when you change the filter.

When you turn the ignition on you should hear the fuel pump running.... but it might not run for that long. To make the pump prime, turn the ignition on and pump the accelerator pedal 5 or 6 times and you should here the fuel pump kick in - and the engine MIL (engine fault light) will start flashing. The ECU will now make the pump run for 30 seconds and then turn off for a few seconds, and then kick in again for 30 seconds. Leave it doing this until the pump either goes quiter, or until the pump makes a continuous noise.

If that doesn't work - there are a few other things you can try.

Ian

Hi Ian,
I have had a similar problem with my 53 TD5 110, I was driving it the other day when it just died, the MIL came on and after a few minutes it started again, drove 100 yards and it happened again, this happened several times and I finally got home. Was told it was the fuel pump so we replaced it. The fault has not gone away. It starts straight away and will sit ticking over fine, you can rev it lightly ok, but as soon as you rev it harder it dies and the MIL comes on, do you have any suggestions? Id' appreciate any advice.

thanks
Helen
 
Back
Top Bottom