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General The workshop Adventures of Phoebe the Freebie...
- Thread starter Geobloke
- Start date
You could colour key the Lanoguard to the body colour!
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Search: 53 results found for "bekro dye"
Welcome to Candle Shack! The UK's leading provider of candle-making supplies as well as manufacturer to many of the world's leading brands. With excellent pricing, expert advice and outstanding support for beginners, find everything you need to make incredible candles, wax melts, diffusers and more!
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Geobloke
Posting Guru
Dark blue in the shadowed wheel arch.... Think black is a better this time aroundYou could colour key the Lanoguard to the body colour!
Search: 53 results found for "bekro dye"
Welcome to Candle Shack! The UK's leading provider of candle-making supplies as well as manufacturer to many of the world's leading brands. With excellent pricing, expert advice and outstanding support for beginners, find everything you need to make incredible candles, wax melts, diffusers and more!
Mmmmm... purple...
Pink?
Whatever floats your boat... would contrast nicely with the saltire on the bonnet.
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Nothing wrong with Pink. As Steve Tyler says...
'Cause pink is my favorite crayon, yeah
Pink, it was love at first sight...
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Todays Freelander jobs began with the arrival of a new battery charger, previous one would not charge AGM batteries. Anyway, it has taken over 6 hours to recondition and charge the battery. I really do not drive enough...
The second job of the day is the air box modification I have had planned for months now. Like many many Freelander's I bought mine with the common problem whereby someone has been over enthusiastic with the screwing down of the air box lid retaining screws. The short version is that the screws stripped out the plastic material in the base of the air box and the lid could not be tightened down sufficiently.
For the last year I have used the excellent cable tie hack to reduce the internal diameter of the screw holes. This has worked extremely well and a great hack.
So today I modified the air box to fit a set of four M6 wood to metal threaded dowels, washers and nuts. Job done. Super secure air box lid. Cost: £3 +/-.
Method
Drill out air box base holes to 6mm. Use two nuts on the dowels to turn them in to the air box base. Wood screw down. Slow and easy.
Drill out air box lid to 6.5mm.
Place lid in position, washer, spring washer and nut. Tighten down to seal.
NB: When drilling out plastic work up through the drill bit sizes to avoid the bit snatching or over heating the plastic.
Super easy modification. A real 1 Spanner DIY job.
The second job of the day is the air box modification I have had planned for months now. Like many many Freelander's I bought mine with the common problem whereby someone has been over enthusiastic with the screwing down of the air box lid retaining screws. The short version is that the screws stripped out the plastic material in the base of the air box and the lid could not be tightened down sufficiently.
For the last year I have used the excellent cable tie hack to reduce the internal diameter of the screw holes. This has worked extremely well and a great hack.
So today I modified the air box to fit a set of four M6 wood to metal threaded dowels, washers and nuts. Job done. Super secure air box lid. Cost: £3 +/-.
Method
Drill out air box base holes to 6mm. Use two nuts on the dowels to turn them in to the air box base. Wood screw down. Slow and easy.
Drill out air box lid to 6.5mm.
Place lid in position, washer, spring washer and nut. Tighten down to seal.
NB: When drilling out plastic work up through the drill bit sizes to avoid the bit snatching or over heating the plastic.
Super easy modification. A real 1 Spanner DIY job.
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Just a little job this afternoon before the darkness once again consumes these Welsh valleys :roll:
Phoebe has a 12S tow socket and since I have recently bought a CTEK MXS-5.0 battery charger (my very old Halfords charger went walkies one day...) I figured a 12S tow socket to CTEK adapter would be a good idea to keep the battery topped up over Winter.
It is an easy wiring job once you have a CTEK socket and 12S plug. Pin 4 to +ve (red) and Pin 3 to -ve (black). Job done.
Time for a maintenance charge over night...
Although looking at her, folks might think she's got bigger problems... :roll:
Phoebe has a 12S tow socket and since I have recently bought a CTEK MXS-5.0 battery charger (my very old Halfords charger went walkies one day...) I figured a 12S tow socket to CTEK adapter would be a good idea to keep the battery topped up over Winter.
It is an easy wiring job once you have a CTEK socket and 12S plug. Pin 4 to +ve (red) and Pin 3 to -ve (black). Job done.
Time for a maintenance charge over night...
Although looking at her, folks might think she's got bigger problems... :roll:
I think your tracking might be out a bit...
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Well a few weekends ago Ol' Phoebe and I had a merry time of it. I had been waiting for a dry weekend to get down to doing a job of work in the engine bay:
checking the glow plugs (pretty sure they weren't working),
checking the swirl flaps,
fitting an EGR blanking plate,
renewing the air filter,
renew fuel filter,
and the engine oil and filter...
I knew the job of getting to the glow plugs was going to be a task and it really was, definitely up there on the spanner rating scale, but mostly due to it being a fiddly job though. Lots of bits have to come off to get to the glow plugs.
So out with the camp table, tools parts and most importantly... mug of coffee... As you can see there was more than the above planned...
Next off with the fuel filter, fuel lines and inlet manifold
I wasn't surprised to see the amount of baked on oily deposits within the manifold, but nicely surprised to see that the swirl flaps were all present and correct.
Now exposed, unplug the glow plugs and time for a coffee to replenish the DIY courage before attempting to remove the glow plugs. Lots of bad experiences out there with regards to removing old glow plugs. For this a deep 8mm socket was needed. Much to my utter joy and surprise all of the glow plugs came out with little effort. The relief was immense i can tell you.
Was it worth the effort? Oh yes... Not one glow plug worked
Dead, dead, dead... This is what should have happened
Next job was the clean up. The oily mess took a lot of time and effort to remove, but it relinquished its hold in the components eventually. Left to dry overnight.
The next morning the rebuild began, including the EGR blanking plate and believe it or not it all went back together fairly easily
And started on the button too Much much smoother cold idle too.
Buoyed by this success I went on to replace all the rest of the oils as Phoebe is getting on a bit, so much time was spent sucking out the fluids with the 500ml syringe. It's not a difficult task, but time consuming, especially when all oils are cold. All the fluids were well past their best. Brown, sludgey, dirty smelling... Not in the best of condition to say the least.
The only thing I couldn't do was the Haldex filter and pump. I ran out of time and importantly tools :roll: I lacked the bit to get the propshaft bolts off. Which is a bugger to say the least. So she's 90% refreshed... I think this might be a job for a professional... maybe...
checking the glow plugs (pretty sure they weren't working),
checking the swirl flaps,
fitting an EGR blanking plate,
renewing the air filter,
renew fuel filter,
and the engine oil and filter...
I knew the job of getting to the glow plugs was going to be a task and it really was, definitely up there on the spanner rating scale, but mostly due to it being a fiddly job though. Lots of bits have to come off to get to the glow plugs.
So out with the camp table, tools parts and most importantly... mug of coffee...
As you can see there was more than the above planned...Next off with the fuel filter, fuel lines and inlet manifold
I wasn't surprised to see the amount of baked on oily deposits within the manifold, but nicely surprised to see that the swirl flaps were all present and correct.
Now exposed, unplug the glow plugs and time for a coffee to replenish the DIY courage before attempting to remove the glow plugs. Lots of bad experiences out there with regards to removing old glow plugs. For this a deep 8mm socket was needed. Much to my utter joy and surprise all of the glow plugs came out with little effort. The relief was immense i can tell you.
Was it worth the effort? Oh yes... Not one glow plug worked
Dead, dead, dead... This is what should have happened
Next job was the clean up. The oily mess took a lot of time and effort to remove, but it relinquished its hold in the components eventually. Left to dry overnight.
The next morning the rebuild began, including the EGR blanking plate and believe it or not it all went back together fairly easily
And started on the button too
Much much smoother cold idle too.Buoyed by this success I went on to replace all the rest of the oils as Phoebe is getting on a bit, so much time was spent sucking out the fluids with the 500ml syringe. It's not a difficult task, but time consuming, especially when all oils are cold. All the fluids were well past their best. Brown, sludgey, dirty smelling... Not in the best of condition to say the least.
The only thing I couldn't do was the Haldex filter and pump. I ran out of time and importantly tools :roll: I lacked the bit to get the propshaft bolts off. Which is a bugger to say the least. So she's 90% refreshed...
I think this might be a job for a professional... maybe...
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Well another dry saturday, which is nice. Todays task was to get Phoebe back on her tyres.
So job 1: Since she has been up on axle stands for a week or so all is dry underneath so a quick top up of Lanoguard within the wheel arches to see her through the winter. Wheels rotated (diagonal front to back) and pressures topped up. They were all a good 7 PSI down since the outdoor temperatures have dropped.
Job 2: test drive to check for oil leaks after the last weeks work. After 30 minutes there were no obvious leaks. Will check again tomorrow after everything has cooled down.
Well when I say no leaks... that's not exactly correct :roll: A new leak has popped up. Probably age of the part and the drop in temperature. We've had a good number of 0 degC mornings lately so I suspect some of the components are a little hard. Where you might ask is the leak...
Spotted it yet?
Yup a small pool of diesel in the injector well :shock: Balls...! A good look around and there is diesel along the pipes leading from the leak off connector, the sheen is diesel
But, I do not think it is the pipe because the top of the connector looks really wet, especially compared to the other three.
Wet
Dry
So I think it is the o-ring within the connector allowing diesel to leak past it. So, I believe the part number is
LR054612... or Bosch F00VP01003... Is that right folks?
Or is it worth replacing the whole leak off pipe set? LR051528
Opinions??
So job 1: Since she has been up on axle stands for a week or so all is dry underneath so a quick top up of Lanoguard within the wheel arches to see her through the winter. Wheels rotated (diagonal front to back) and pressures topped up. They were all a good 7 PSI down since the outdoor temperatures have dropped.
Job 2: test drive to check for oil leaks after the last weeks work. After 30 minutes there were no obvious leaks.
Will check again tomorrow after everything has cooled down. Well when I say no leaks... that's not exactly correct :roll: A new leak has popped up. Probably age of the part and the drop in temperature. We've had a good number of 0 degC mornings lately so I suspect some of the components are a little hard. Where you might ask is the leak...
Spotted it yet?
Yup a small pool of diesel in the injector well :shock: Balls...! A good look around and there is diesel along the pipes leading from the leak off connector, the sheen is diesel
But, I do not think it is the pipe because the top of the connector looks really wet, especially compared to the other three.
Wet
Dry
So I think it is the o-ring within the connector allowing diesel to leak past it. So, I believe the part number is
LR054612... or Bosch F00VP01003... Is that right folks?
Or is it worth replacing the whole leak off pipe set? LR051528
Opinions??
Attachments
No idea on these, but very often if one part has started leaking then similar parts probably arent far behind.
Depends on relative costs really, and how difficult/inconvenient it will be to replace a second or third one if it starts leaking..?
Depends on relative costs really, and how difficult/inconvenient it will be to replace a second or third one if it starts leaking..?
Geobloke
Posting Guru
So, I have found an alternative solution to the missing rubber grommets of Phoebe's acoustic cover.
These are motorcycle fairing grommets and include a metal insert. They are a little taller, a smidge smaller in overall diameter, the vertical indent gap is a tad bigger...
..., but critically the internal diameter is the same as the standard grommet so it fits perfectly in to the holes of the acoustic cover and once the metal insert is fitted the M6 flanged bolt fits perfectly. The metal insert snugs down nicely on to the captive nuts and the cover doesn't rattle at all when the engine is on anymore.
Not bad for 10 minutes during coffee break So, now I have 8 spares...
In other news and not surprisingly, but pleasantly I suppose, after the oil changes the old girl starts much better first thing in the morning. Plus the gear changes are much smoother. Happy man. Just waiting on the leak off connector o-rings now and she will be good for a good while.
These are motorcycle fairing grommets and include a metal insert. They are a little taller, a smidge smaller in overall diameter, the vertical indent gap is a tad bigger...
..., but critically the internal diameter is the same as the standard grommet so it fits perfectly in to the holes of the acoustic cover and once the metal insert is fitted the M6 flanged bolt fits perfectly. The metal insert snugs down nicely on to the captive nuts and the cover doesn't rattle at all when the engine is on anymore.
Not bad for 10 minutes during coffee break
So, now I have 8 spares... In other news and not surprisingly, but pleasantly I suppose, after the oil changes the old girl starts much better first thing in the morning. Plus the gear changes are much smoother. Happy man. Just waiting on the leak off connector o-rings now and she will be good for a good while.
You had to go and say it didnt you...
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Oh no...
Overconfidence to the point of foolishly tempting fate... Balls...!
Fixed that for ya
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Damn you Mike
Well, that was unexpected. On the way out this afternoon and I noticed that the nearside front door moulding was not sitting flush against the door. Quick look and it was only being held on by a few clips. Glad I saw it before it fell off whilst driving.
Two things sprung to mind when I removed the moulding. 1) amazing how filthy it was behind the panel and, 2) Huh... this has been off before and repaired as evidenced by the two blobs of silicone. :shock: Goes to show you never really know with a second hand vehicle...
So the question is...
I suspect those trim clips have worn and need replacing, how do you get the yellow part out of the door?
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Well the leak-off o-rings have arrived so looking forward to that job... Fiddly little aged plastic clips, what could possibly go wrong...
In other news some of the door moulding mounting plinths/positions for the white fixings had perished and separated from the moulding on one edge. I am beginning to think that the previous owner didn't completely disclose everything to the buyer... Hey-ho, buyer beware and all that.
The good news is that this sort of plastic repairs really easily with the tip of a soldering iron. All it takes is a little redistribution of material and let it set. Job done all the mounts are as solid as they were when LR fitted them. Just waiting on the new clips to arrive.
In other news some of the door moulding mounting plinths/positions for the white fixings had perished and separated from the moulding on one edge. I am beginning to think that the previous owner didn't completely disclose everything to the buyer... Hey-ho, buyer beware and all that.
The good news is that this sort of plastic repairs really easily with the tip of a soldering iron. All it takes is a little redistribution of material and let it set. Job done all the mounts are as solid as they were when LR fitted them. Just waiting on the new clips to arrive.