Some time ago I bought an EGR removal kit off ebay from Landyworld.co.uk. Today, I finally got round to fitting it.
Here is what you get:
...a new hose to go from the intercooler to the inlet manifold, a blanking plate, a gasket and two bolts.
And here is what it replaces:
Ughh, nasty complicated mess.
Unplug the electrical and vacuum connections to the EGR valve, and put them out of the way (round the back of the screenwash reservoir is ideal).
The EGR valve is held onto the exhaust manifold by two allen-headed bolts:
...one at the top and one at the bottom.
I have read elsewhere that these can be a pig to remove, so I prepared early:- last night I gave them a good dose of WD40, and again, first thing this morning I gave them another dose.
I left it for an hour or so, and before I started I also ran the engine just enough to warm the manifold up.
I took the correct size Allen key, and attached a pair of mole-grips to the end to give me some extra leverage, but it still took some grunting and swearing before the bolts cracked:
Once I'd got both bolts loose, I undid the hose clips on the intercooler and inlet manifold, and released the hose. I found it much easier to do the intercooler end first.
Straight away, on removing the intercooler end of the hose, you can see the oil and gunk that was in there,
And even more so when you remove the inlet manifold end:
I then completely undid the allen bolts securing the EGR valve, and removed the whole assembly, to leave this:
I spent some time cleaning out the inside of the inlet manifold as best I could without removing it, using lots of cloths shoved in with a long screwdriver and dragged out. To really clean this out would require removing the inlet manifold from the engine and soaking it in petrol or thinners, and then rinsing and replacing, but I don't have time for that today. Likewise, the intercooler could probably do with a good flush. However, I managed to remove a remarkable amount of crud using my method, which can only be a good thing.
I then cleaned up the mating surface of where the EGR valve fitted onto the exhaust manifold:
...and fitted the blanking plate, gasket and bolts, and the new hose. It is obvious from the shape of the hose which way round it fits so as not to foul the alternator drive pulley.
Job done:
One last thing, remember to block up the vacuum tube from the pump which used to go to the EGR valve. I used a suitable bolt:
I took the Discovery for a run, to see what effect (if any) this has made. I can't honestly say I noticed any difference in outright performance, although the engine idles a bit smoother, but the most marked difference is that when pulling away from junctions, I no longer leave a smokescreen worthy of a battleship.
Yes it's still a bit smoky, it is an old TDi after all, but it is an order of magnitude less, so even for that only, the removal of the EGR has been worth it.
I'm sure that once I've used it a bit on my normal routes to work etc I might notice a difference in power. If I do, I'll let you know.
Happy EGR removal...
Here is what you get:
...a new hose to go from the intercooler to the inlet manifold, a blanking plate, a gasket and two bolts.
And here is what it replaces:
Ughh, nasty complicated mess.
Unplug the electrical and vacuum connections to the EGR valve, and put them out of the way (round the back of the screenwash reservoir is ideal).
The EGR valve is held onto the exhaust manifold by two allen-headed bolts:
...one at the top and one at the bottom.
I have read elsewhere that these can be a pig to remove, so I prepared early:- last night I gave them a good dose of WD40, and again, first thing this morning I gave them another dose.
I left it for an hour or so, and before I started I also ran the engine just enough to warm the manifold up.
I took the correct size Allen key, and attached a pair of mole-grips to the end to give me some extra leverage, but it still took some grunting and swearing before the bolts cracked:
Once I'd got both bolts loose, I undid the hose clips on the intercooler and inlet manifold, and released the hose. I found it much easier to do the intercooler end first.
Straight away, on removing the intercooler end of the hose, you can see the oil and gunk that was in there,
And even more so when you remove the inlet manifold end:
I then completely undid the allen bolts securing the EGR valve, and removed the whole assembly, to leave this:
I spent some time cleaning out the inside of the inlet manifold as best I could without removing it, using lots of cloths shoved in with a long screwdriver and dragged out. To really clean this out would require removing the inlet manifold from the engine and soaking it in petrol or thinners, and then rinsing and replacing, but I don't have time for that today. Likewise, the intercooler could probably do with a good flush. However, I managed to remove a remarkable amount of crud using my method, which can only be a good thing.
I then cleaned up the mating surface of where the EGR valve fitted onto the exhaust manifold:
...and fitted the blanking plate, gasket and bolts, and the new hose. It is obvious from the shape of the hose which way round it fits so as not to foul the alternator drive pulley.
Job done:
One last thing, remember to block up the vacuum tube from the pump which used to go to the EGR valve. I used a suitable bolt:
I took the Discovery for a run, to see what effect (if any) this has made. I can't honestly say I noticed any difference in outright performance, although the engine idles a bit smoother, but the most marked difference is that when pulling away from junctions, I no longer leave a smokescreen worthy of a battleship.
Yes it's still a bit smoky, it is an old TDi after all, but it is an order of magnitude less, so even for that only, the removal of the EGR has been worth it.
I'm sure that once I've used it a bit on my normal routes to work etc I might notice a difference in power. If I do, I'll let you know.
Happy EGR removal...
