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1971 Series IIa 88" Overhaul

Do I see evidence of a blood sacrifice?
Believe it, or not, having worked in an engine factory. The manufacturers don't go to all this trouble, neither do they lap valves. Pop them in, quick slap with a hammer on the end of the valve stem to seat the retaining collars and that will do nicely thank you
Blood sacrifice indeed. I've left quite a bit of the stuff on the shop floor throughout this project. All part the fun I suppose. 😆

I've heard the same thing from others about not bothering to lap valves. I think you could get away with that if the pieces were ground but my having dressed these seats with a cutter I thought it best to lap things in to make sure I had good contact. The last thing I need is a burnt exhaust valve...
 
I got on the lathe today and turned out a new wrist pin bushing for my oversize bored connecting rod. Most everything I read online said to make it from aluminum bronze but I don't have any of that and it's expensive to buy a small piece. Some of the race guys said steel-on-steel works fine as long as you leave a touch more clearance for oil so I went that route and used a piece of C1045 steel. Hardened chrome-moly probably would have been better but I didn't have any of that either. Again this little engine is more tractor than race and the forces involved are relatively low so I'm going to chance it. I figure that at worst it'll gall up and seize onto the wrist pin but that should still be okay as the design is fully floating so the pin will just rock in the piston bore instead of the rod.
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I also quickly made up an installation tool to make sure pressing the bushing in went as smoothly as possible. Because the bushing is 1.275" long and the rod is 1.300" wide the bushing needed to go into the rod bore 0.0125" past flush so I added a shoulder on the installation tool of that width so that I could just push the tool all the way in and against the bore shoulder and the tool should push the bushing in just that little bit more automatically.
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It worked! I put the bushing in the freezer for half an hour to shrink it a bit (waste of time as the little bugger warmed up almost immediately) and put some heat on the rod end (maybe helped a bit) and pressed the bushing home in my bench vise.
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So then I drilled the oil hole through the new bushing and gave it a touch-up with a brake cylinder deglazing hone and I'm done. The pin fits beautifully. Measuring it says I've got about 0.0013" clearance so that should be good. On to assembly!
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I got on the lathe today and turned out a new wrist pin bushing for my oversize bored connecting rod. Most everything I read online said to make it from aluminum bronze but I don't have any of that and it's expensive to buy a small piece. Some of the race guys said steel-on-steel works fine as long as you leave a touch more clearance for oil so I went that route and used a piece of C1045 steel. Hardened chrome-moly probably would have been better but I didn't have any of that either. Again this little engine is more tractor than race and the forces involved are relatively low so I'm going to chance it. I figure that at worst it'll gall up and seize onto the wrist pin but that should still be okay as the design is fully floating so the pin will just rock in the piston bore instead of the rod.
View attachment 528526
I also quickly made up an installation tool to make sure pressing the bushing in went as smoothly as possible. Because the bushing is 1.275" long and the rod is 1.300" wide the bushing needed to go into the rod bore 0.0125" past flush so I added a shoulder on the installation tool of that width so that I could just push the tool all the way in and against the bore shoulder and the tool should push the bushing in just that little bit more automatically.
View attachment 528528
View attachment 528527
It worked! I put the bushing in the freezer for half an hour to shrink it a bit (waste of time as the little bugger warmed up almost immediately) and put some heat on the rod end (maybe helped a bit) and pressed the bushing home in my bench vise.
View attachment 528523
So then I drilled the oil hole through the new bushing and gave it a touch-up with a brake cylinder deglazing hone and I'm done. The pin fits beautifully. Measuring it says I've got about 0.0013" clearance so that should be good. On to assembly!
View attachment 528524
View attachment 528525
Work looks great👍..
I can't remember been on this thread in the past but I'll be going back to the start for a read when I get a chance.. 👍
 
Blood sacrifice indeed. I've left quite a bit of the stuff on the shop floor throughout this project. All part the fun I suppose. 😆
Absolutely essential for a successful outcome on a Land Rover ;)

Thanks for all the detail, this will be really handy for anyone contemplating an engine rebuild and getting to know what work goes into it. One thing that has become blindingly obvious to me is the need for a lathe.....now, where did I put that 'Tools I need to buy' list? :rolleyes:
 
"Wrist pin"; different names for everything. 😂
Sounds nicer than gudgeon pin somehow. Plus a worthwhile saving on the cost of a new rod.
or not, as the case may be.
 
Sounds nicer than gudgeon pin somehow. Plus a worthwhile saving on the cost of a new rod.
or not, as the case may be.
I'm not sure why we call it a "wrist pin" here but I do agree that it sounds nicer somehow than gudgeon pin. Maybe it sounds too much like bludgeon. 😄

Yes replacement connecting rods are quite expensive these days. Replacing just one scares me a bit too as I don't want an oddball in there as things like that tend to be slightly different from lot to lot and year to year. A decent used set would have worked but they're not just growing on trees over here either. Turners said they'll remanufacture mine for me but I don't want to pay for all that shipping and I don't want to wait for them. All that added up to a home shop repair...
 
Rebuilding the connecting rod was the last of the engine repair work so now its time to assemble this mess. I started by fitting the crankshaft.
I'd already cleaned, polished, and measured it so I was sure I'd ordered the right bearings but without having the expertise of an actual engine-builder, getting something precision-tech like this back together properly can be somewhat daunting for the average G. Like the holdup man on the Flintstones said to Fred: "Nice and slow see? That's the way to do it." Nice and slow..." 😆
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I wiped off the new main bearings and pushed them into place in the block, lubed them with engine oil, and placed the crank into them. I played around fitting various thicknesses of thrust bearing to finally settle on new standard ones. Crankshaft end float ended up at around 0.002" which is minimum. Fine.
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I used green Plasti-Gauge in the main bearings, torquing each one up, removing it and checking for clearance. About 0.002" across all three is what I ended up with which is acceptable. I'd never used Plasti-Gauge before - it's pretty neat.
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Once the main bearing clearances were dealt with I lubed them up with Permatex "Ultra Slick" assembly lube and torqued the main bearing caps to 85 ft/lbs. It rotated freely which was nice.
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I then fitted the rear main oil seal as per the good book and it seems to have worked out. I used silicone grease on the cork seals in the sides of the rear main bearing cap and managed to get it together without ripping anything. It all looks good.
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Then the pistons and rods. I fitted each rod to its respective piston using the Ultra Slick lube and then with lots of engine oil on the pistons (not the assembly lube!), clamped them up with a ring compressor and pushed them into their bores. I went one at a time and fitted their crank bearings using the Plasti-Gauge and then the Ultra Slick, torquing them up as per spec. All was within spec and good.
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So the bottom end assembly is together and all torqued up and it rotates freely. Sweet! I'm pretty happy about that. The Murphy's Law part of my brain was expecting trouble but I guess my careful preparation paid off and it all seems good so far. The bearing clearances are on the high side of what the manual says is acceptable but I'd rather that than too tight. I can always run heavier oil if the oil pressure seems low. I'd bought new connecting rod bolts and nuts from Turners but upon fitting them had a bad feeling and ended up using the original ones. I've learned to listen to my gut and it told me to leave well enough alone here. Hopefully I don't regret that.
So there it is - the finicky, tricky, messy, and picky part of the engine is back together and looking good. What a relief!
 
Absolutely essential for a successful outcome on a Land Rover ;)

Thanks for all the detail, this will be really handy for anyone contemplating an engine rebuild and getting to know what work goes into it. One thing that has become blindingly obvious to me is the need for a lathe.....now, where did I put that 'Tools I need to buy' list? :rolleyes:
A lathe is super handy and can quick pay for itself when doing things like this but is a hard bone to chew when it comes time to buy one. We tend to look longingly at catalogs showing beautiful but expensive brand-new machines but in reality an old worn out Myford will realistically do the job for the home mechanic in most cases. Major precision jobs are in reality quite rare but the real benefit shows itself when you can whip up a one-time use tool or open up a washer on occasion when you need it. I highly recommend a cheap worn-out old lathe for honest home shop work. 😁
 
A lathe is super handy and can quick pay for itself when doing things like this but is a hard bone to chew when it comes time to buy one. We tend to look longingly at catalogs showing beautiful but expensive brand-new machines but in reality an old worn out Myford will realistically do the job for the home mechanic in most cases. Major precision jobs are in reality quite rare but the real benefit shows itself when you can whip up a one-time use tool or open up a washer on occasion when you need it. I highly recommend a cheap worn-out old lathe for honest home shop work. 😁
A lathe is indeed a handy tool to own and the my ford while not been as sturdy as some is or was so popular that it's accessories make it very adaptable..
Even a well used lathe can be set up to turn fairly true.. Backlash in the feed screws is seldom an issue..
Not used mine for much engine work but do enjoy making tools etc👍
My little shop.. 👇

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A lathe is indeed a handy tool to own and the my ford while not been as sturdy as some is or was so popular that it's accessories make it very adaptable..
Even a well used lathe can be set up to turn fairly true.. Backlash in the feed screws is seldom an issue..
Not used mine for much engine work but do enjoy making tools etc👍
My little shop.. 👇

View attachment 528665

View attachment 528666
Nice shop! Lots of capability right there. Good stuff. 👍
 
As usual I'm working long shifts over the weekend so I don't have much time to in the evenings to play with my Rover but I did get some stuff done. With the rotating assembly together I installed the new Britpart camshaft. I then sorted the best timing chain pieces from my assortment of parts and put it all together. I had the original parts, an extra set of used gears and chain that came with the vehicle, new Britpart chain & gears, and a new Turners supplied chain. Out of all that I ended up choosing the chain from Turners, the used idler that came extra with the vehicle, the new Britpart cam gear (very poor but better than the rest), and a new Britpart chain tensioner - the aluminum piece that the idler gear rides on. Strangely enough it appeared to be an OEM part and of decent quality except that it'd been dropped at some point and needed some fettling to get it to fit on the tensioner post. Fu$%ing Britpart... 😁
It all fit together nicely and the tensioner appears to have lots of travel left in it as a new timing chain set should have so that's cool.
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I rotated the crank to top dead center and installed the distributor/oil pump drive gear. It took a couple of tries to get the distributor drive slots to be at the correct angle as per the manual and the bearing retainer hole lined up with the the retaining screw, but it wasn't a big deal.
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I cleaned up the timing chain cover and popped a new Cortecto front crankshaft seal into it. I then installed it with a new gasket with some Permatex on either side and snugged it up.
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My front drive pulley has a worn seal surface so I'll have to sleeve it. Just some basic lathe work but still a bit of a pain in the butt.
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Not a bad bit of progress for a work night. Maybe tomorrow I'll button up the sump and get the flywheel on. Things are moving along quickly now so I guess I'd better order up wheel bearings and brake parts so that when I do get this thing running I can take it out for a spin! 😄
 
Yesterday I began to install all rest of the bits and pieces to the engine: the water pump, oil pump, front seal mudguard, and oil pan, etc. I gave a few parts a spritz of black paint to make it look nicer for the final pics. 😁
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The Britpart bottom end gasket kit provided a sump gasket but it had shrunk and wouldn't fit so I just used silicone gasket maker instead. Pretty standard stuff. You put a bead onto the sump pan and bolt it up to the block finger tight. Then you wait an hour for it to set a bit then torque it to spec. I doubt it'll leak.
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I then tipped the whole thing upright and installed flywheel housing and flywheel.
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Then the cam rollers and guides, cylinder head, pushrods, and valve rocker assembly. Now it's looking like a real engine again!
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When I came back to the project today I almost immediately saw an "oops!" - I'd missed installing the oil galley plugs at the back of the engine and would have to remove the flywheel housing again to get at them. Good thing I noticed this as it's a lot less work to fix it now as opposed to finding out after I'd installed the engine.
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So off with the parts, install the plugs and oil supply pipe to the head, and put it back together. Crisis averted! 😆
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As a side note there were a couple of other positives taken from this miss-step. Upon taking it apart again I found that two of the flywheel housing bolts were too long and had fouled themselves in the block. I don't think they were actually seated and doing their job. I shortened them and now they're fine.
Also, I had decided to use lock washers on the flywheel bolts and had begun to second guess their benefit as compared to that much more thread engagement in the crankshaft. When I reassembled it I left the washers out and used just a drop of Loctite instead.
 
That was a lucky spot. Funny, I was just thinking, when I read your previous post, I'm sure I would forget to fit something if I was doing the same job :eek:
It's all looking very tidy, love'in the work :thumbsup:
Oh yes, things are getting forgotten for sure. I'm no pro engine builder. I only hope I find them all before it's too late! 😁

With having taken apart just about everything in the drivetrain up to the axles I'm sure I'll be an interesting initial start-up. There's bound to be a slew of loose fasteners, leaks, and improperly adjusted components. It'll take some time to shake the silly's out of this beast. 🤣
 
Factory used locking tabs on the flywheel bolts, at least they did during the era when mine was built. Naturally I forgot all about them until I found them in the "odd engine parts" drawer. This was after I had fitted the clutch, gearbox and it was all back in the chassis.
The other thing I forgot was the oil pump drive shaft but I noticed that quite soon after I had fitted the pump and bent all the locking tabs into position.
 
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