SeriesG
Offroader
It sounds like a "Things we've forgotten" thread is in order here.
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1971 Series IIa 88" Overhaul
- Thread starter SeriesG
- Start date
I'd certainly never use spring washers on a flywheel. At least...not after that one time...
Thread lock or a mechanical answer (lockwire, locktabs, etc) are the preferred choice for such things.
Thread lock or a mechanical answer (lockwire, locktabs, etc) are the preferred choice for such things.
Love this thread. It is so far outside my mechanical ability, I just read in awe and envy.When I came back to the project today I almost immediately saw an "oops!" - I'd missed installing the oil galley plugs at the back of the engine and would have to remove the flywheel housing again to get at them. Good thing I noticed this as it's a lot less work to fix it now as opposed to finding out after I'd installed the engine.
View attachment 529019
So off with the parts, install the plugs and oil supply pipe to the head, and put it back together. Crisis averted!
View attachment 529018
View attachment 529017
View attachment 529016
As a side note there were a couple of other positives taken from this miss-step. Upon taking it apart again I found that two of the flywheel housing bolts were too long and had fouled themselves in the block. I don't think they were actually seated and doing their job. I shortened them and now they're fine.
Also, I had decided to use lock washers on the flywheel bolts and had begun to second guess their benefit as compared to that much more thread engagement in the crankshaft. When I reassembled it I left the washers out and used just a drop of Loctite instead.
SeriesG
Offroader
I'm glad you're enjoying it. My genuine hope it that it helps to inspire others to try to do some of these things themselves. I know it looks daunting but it really is within the capacity of the common man to do it if you really want to. Outside of the machine shop work, which I know is rather specialized, I truly believe that with some study and careful preparation anyone can do their own work. It's mostly just cleanup anyway! Does it pay? I believe it does. I've decided that I want to drive a vintage Land Rover and I can't afford to have a professional restore one for me so really I have no choice - learn how and make it happen or watch YouTube videos of others who've done it instead. The latter doesn't sound too appealing to me so the former it is. You can do it too!Love this thread. It is so far outside my mechanical ability, I just read in awe and envy.
SeriesG
Offroader
I bolted up the new clutch disk and pressure plate from L.O.F. and all went as planned. This kit is quite nice as it comes with new bolts and a tube of lube as well as decent instructions.
I set the valve lash and installed the rocker cover and dropped in a new set of Champion R12YC spark plugs gapped at 0.032". Then the distributor and wires. I've still got to safety-wire the tappet guide locator bolts but I'll get to that soon enough.
The oil filler/breather cap had a big hole drilled into the top with a greasy old hose hanging from it. I don't know where the hose went so I plugged the hole by soldering it closed with a blanking disk - a Canadian $1 coin - a perfect fit! I figured that'd be easier than cutting out a piece of scrap tin or what have you. With that I spritzed it all with some semi-gloss black paint and bolted it in place. I then bolted on the oil filter assembly then torqued up everything I could see.
With the dizzy side of the engine complete I set about mounting the manifold assembly. I sorted out all the hardware before I began then bolted it up loosely to the head with a new one-piece gasket. I tightened everything slowly so that there wouldn't be any weird strains at the intake-to-exhaust manifold joint. I think it's all nice and tight. It looks good with the new exhaust manifold for sure.
So now I'm working on adapting my new GM style 10SI alternator in place of the original Lucas. I don't remember exactly but I think I ordered the 100amp model. This type of alternator is extremely common in North America and is cheap, reliable, and available overnight in most any output I could ask for. It just makes way more sense to change it over from the relatively weak 45amp Lucas that with shipping from the UK would likely cost the same or more. With my electric winch I'll likely be going to a dual battery setup too so the extra recovery capacity the 100amp unit will provide will be most welcome. It's larger than the Lucas and a bit of a tight squeeze to fit it in there but it works. I think this will be a worthwhile upgrade.
So with all that I'm pretty much ready to install the engine into the chassis. I'm excited to be getting close to a startup!
I set the valve lash and installed the rocker cover and dropped in a new set of Champion R12YC spark plugs gapped at 0.032". Then the distributor and wires. I've still got to safety-wire the tappet guide locator bolts but I'll get to that soon enough.
The oil filler/breather cap had a big hole drilled into the top with a greasy old hose hanging from it. I don't know where the hose went so I plugged the hole by soldering it closed with a blanking disk - a Canadian $1 coin - a perfect fit! I figured that'd be easier than cutting out a piece of scrap tin or what have you. With that I spritzed it all with some semi-gloss black paint and bolted it in place. I then bolted on the oil filter assembly then torqued up everything I could see.
With the dizzy side of the engine complete I set about mounting the manifold assembly. I sorted out all the hardware before I began then bolted it up loosely to the head with a new one-piece gasket. I tightened everything slowly so that there wouldn't be any weird strains at the intake-to-exhaust manifold joint. I think it's all nice and tight. It looks good with the new exhaust manifold for sure.
So now I'm working on adapting my new GM style 10SI alternator in place of the original Lucas. I don't remember exactly but I think I ordered the 100amp model. This type of alternator is extremely common in North America and is cheap, reliable, and available overnight in most any output I could ask for. It just makes way more sense to change it over from the relatively weak 45amp Lucas that with shipping from the UK would likely cost the same or more. With my electric winch I'll likely be going to a dual battery setup too so the extra recovery capacity the 100amp unit will provide will be most welcome. It's larger than the Lucas and a bit of a tight squeeze to fit it in there but it works. I think this will be a worthwhile upgrade.
So with all that I'm pretty much ready to install the engine into the chassis. I'm excited to be getting close to a startup!
Later models had a crankcase breather system fitted. Perhaps that was the thinking behind the oily hose?
Looking great, and I think we are all looking forward to the big start up . I see you have an extra banjo feed off your oil filter, is this for a capillary tube for an oil pressure gauge?
. I see you have an extra banjo feed off your oil filter, is this for a capillary tube for an oil pressure gauge?
SeriesG
Offroader
I don't know Neil, the cap itself is a breather type so what the extra hose was for is a mystery to me. Maybe it's less of a mystery and more of an "I really don't care". Haha! I reckon the breather cap itself will do the job of venting the crankcase for now at least and if problems creep up I'll deal with them as they come.
SeriesG
Offroader
Yes the banjo fitting is for a gauge. It's hooked up to a vintage Stewart-Warner in the dash. Hopefully it all works and doesn't leak - an oil pressure gauge is a nice feature to have when starting a new engine...Looking great, and I think we are all looking forward to the big start up
Maybe they had fitted a catch can?I don't know Neil, the cap itself is a breather type so what the extra hose was for is a mystery to me. Maybe it's less of a mystery and more of an "I really don't care". Haha! I reckon the breather cap itself will do the job of venting the crankcase for now at least and if problems creep up I'll deal with them as they come.
SeriesG
Offroader
Maybe. If that's the case then hopefully my new pistons and rings will catch a whole lot less blow-by.
I'm glad you're enjoying it. My genuine hope it that it helps to inspire others to try to do some of these things themselves. I know it looks daunting but it really is within the capacity of the common man to do it if you really want to. Outside of the machine shop work, which I know is rather specialized, I truly believe that with some study and careful preparation anyone can do their own work. It's mostly just cleanup anyway! Does it pay? I believe it does. I've decided that I want to drive a vintage Land Rover and I can't afford to have a professional restore one for me so really I have no choice - learn how and make it happen or watch YouTube videos of others who've done it instead. The latter doesn't sound too appealing to me so the former it is. You can do it too!
SeriesG
Offroader
Tonight was engine installation night. One thing I wanted to do first while it was still on the bench was to put a bit of flare on the steel fuel pump lines. I'd noticed earlier in the project that no matter how tight I made the clamps the rubber fuel line wanted to walk off the steel so I figured a touch of bulge on the end should cure that so I hit them with the flaring kit:
Once that was done I gave the engine a good looking over for "things I've forgotten" and found none. Or so I thought. I rigged it up and hoisted it off the table. We're goin' in!
I went slowly and wriggled the assembly into the engine bay. It was a touch tricky with all the ancillaries already mounted to the engine but I made it work without wrecking anything. In hindsight I'd remove the oil filter assembly, fuel pump, and probably the distributor just for safety.
I had wriggled and pushed and juggled and shoved but just couldn't get it to slide into place on the gearbox. Installing a major component like this isn't easy to do by yourself but I'd thought it'd go easier than this. I stepped back for a breather and when I came back I almost immediately saw the trouble: I'd used two temporary bolts to hold the clutch slave mount in place on the gearbox. Obviously it wasn't going to go together with two of the mount holes already occupied! Nice. Another "things I've forgotten" moment...
With the bolts clear I had the assembly together within minutes and I snugged up the connection. I had to remove the left side rubber engine mount puck to get clearance and it was a bit of a juggle to get it back into place. The Glencoyne mounts are substantially larger than stock and require extra fooling around to fit.
I pried the whole assembly around with a crowbar to keep things centered as I lowered it the rest of the way down onto the mounts. Once in place I checked all the mounts for excessive strain and finding none, cinched everything up tight. She's in!
While I'd like to say it's a big relief to see the power plant back in its place it really won't be until I hear it running properly. It wouldn't be a huge surprise to find that I've got to remove it again to cure some unknown problem but we'll see. I'm sure it'll be fine. Time to hook it all up and give it a whirl!
Once that was done I gave the engine a good looking over for "things I've forgotten" and found none. Or so I thought. I rigged it up and hoisted it off the table. We're goin' in!
I went slowly and wriggled the assembly into the engine bay. It was a touch tricky with all the ancillaries already mounted to the engine but I made it work without wrecking anything. In hindsight I'd remove the oil filter assembly, fuel pump, and probably the distributor just for safety.
I had wriggled and pushed and juggled and shoved but just couldn't get it to slide into place on the gearbox. Installing a major component like this isn't easy to do by yourself but I'd thought it'd go easier than this. I stepped back for a breather and when I came back I almost immediately saw the trouble: I'd used two temporary bolts to hold the clutch slave mount in place on the gearbox. Obviously it wasn't going to go together with two of the mount holes already occupied! Nice. Another "things I've forgotten" moment...
With the bolts clear I had the assembly together within minutes and I snugged up the connection. I had to remove the left side rubber engine mount puck to get clearance and it was a bit of a juggle to get it back into place. The Glencoyne mounts are substantially larger than stock and require extra fooling around to fit.
I pried the whole assembly around with a crowbar to keep things centered as I lowered it the rest of the way down onto the mounts. Once in place I checked all the mounts for excessive strain and finding none, cinched everything up tight. She's in!
While I'd like to say it's a big relief to see the power plant back in its place it really won't be until I hear it running properly. It wouldn't be a huge surprise to find that I've got to remove it again to cure some unknown problem but we'll see. I'm sure it'll be fine. Time to hook it all up and give it a whirl!
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That’s a big step forward 
SeriesG
Offroader
It is and I'm quite happy about it. I just looked back on my pictures and notice that the first ones are dated late November of last year. I've gotten a lot of work done in 4-1/2 months!That’s a big step forward
Presumably you have a chair of some description in your workshop?
Time to pull it up, pour yourself a beer, sit down and admire the results of your labours
Time to pull it up, pour yourself a beer, sit down and admire the results of your labours
SeriesG
Offroader
Ha! Yes I do have a chair and yes I did use it to sit and sip on a couple of ounces of Gibsons 12 year while contemplating my work.
Funny thing about the chair. It's an old maple school teachers desk chair given to me by my mother-in-law many years ago and is probably 80 years of age. It's been my faithful bench, sawhorse, support member, and resting place in my garage for at least 30 odd years and is much loved though it has a few scars to show for its utility. Last summer she wandered through my shop and gave me sh!+ for not restoring it and treating it with more respect. I gave her cause for ponder when I explained to her how many projects it had helped build and how many hours of rest it had given me over the years as opposed to wasting away in some office somewhere or worse yet, in a refuse heap. That old chair has paid for itself a hundred time over!
SeriesG
Offroader
Two major items (and a slew of smaller ones) need to be dealt with before I can get this thing running: clean up the fuel tank and install the new exhaust pipes. The exhaust installation sounded less smelly and disgusting so I went that direction for tonight.
I'd ordered a complete front-to-back system from Rovers North in Vermont and they did a fine job of getting it to me quickly and at a reasonable price. It was their least expensive "Proline" option so I wasn't expecting perfection and was less than surprised to see the real origin once the wrapping was off. Lol! I figured as much and like I said, I wasn't expecting much for the price I paid. The pipes had the Rovers North "Proline" stickers too but also had labels from a UK company called GT Exhausts. Let's see how it all fits!
Everything fell into place fairly easily with the exception of the tailpipe hanger which was about 45 degrees out of alignment with the pipe and needed twisting to make it work. I probably ordered the wrong part. I clamped it in my bench vise and twisted it into a better position with a large adjustable spanner.
So it's all loosely in place and seems to fit fine. I'll align it better and tighten it up some more tomorrow. The tailpipe exits into the right hand mud flap but I'm sure I can figure something out for that.
All in all I'd say that my cheap-o exhaust system is looking pretty reasonable. I know it won't last but it's better than nothing, which is what I had. With all the changes being made to the Series line in late 1971 it was kind of guesswork choosing parts so it might have been folly going with an all stainless package until I knew exactly what I needed. Next time it'll be better stuff.
I'd ordered a complete front-to-back system from Rovers North in Vermont and they did a fine job of getting it to me quickly and at a reasonable price. It was their least expensive "Proline" option so I wasn't expecting perfection and was less than surprised to see the real origin once the wrapping was off. Lol! I figured as much and like I said, I wasn't expecting much for the price I paid. The pipes had the Rovers North "Proline" stickers too but also had labels from a UK company called GT Exhausts. Let's see how it all fits!
Everything fell into place fairly easily with the exception of the tailpipe hanger which was about 45 degrees out of alignment with the pipe and needed twisting to make it work. I probably ordered the wrong part. I clamped it in my bench vise and twisted it into a better position with a large adjustable spanner.
So it's all loosely in place and seems to fit fine. I'll align it better and tighten it up some more tomorrow. The tailpipe exits into the right hand mud flap but I'm sure I can figure something out for that.
All in all I'd say that my cheap-o exhaust system is looking pretty reasonable. I know it won't last but it's better than nothing, which is what I had. With all the changes being made to the Series line in late 1971 it was kind of guesswork choosing parts so it might have been folly going with an all stainless package until I knew exactly what I needed. Next time it'll be better stuff.
If/when you buy a stainless exhaust system DO NOT, under any circumstances, buy a system from Double S exhausts. They are absolute rubbish made from very low grade stainless, with significant reductions in CSA at every bend and a very poor fit, dreadful in fact. Guess how I know?
The available selection of exhaust brackets is bewildering isn't it?
The available selection of exhaust brackets is bewildering isn't it?
SeriesG
Offroader
Thanks for the heads-up Neil. This is the kind of information/experience that makes a common forum like this so valuable. Everyone shares their experiences either good or bad and we can weed out the crappy suppliers.
Yes the much varied selection of hangers is indeed bewildering. Once a fella has something in place though it becomes somewhat easier to choose the most applicable pieces. I'm pretty amazed my system went together as smoothly as it did actually. I'm pretty happy overall. To me it's important to have an at least halfways decent exhaust system in place when starting a newly assembled engine. I don't need to be trying to hear weird engine noises through an open exhaust note...