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300tdi Oil leak from bellhousing to block?
- Thread starter tomreade
- Start date
seal guides 270304 (suggests they have been using them for many years) and the chamfer should be on the bottom part of the T that fits against the bearing cap.
There is a sort of sketch picture on page 59 of the official Land Rover 200tdi manual. I think the picture reference number is ST2985M
There is a sort of sketch picture on page 59 of the official Land Rover 200tdi manual. I think the picture reference number is ST2985M
naylz
Big Landy Fan
fantastic help that Neil, googled that number and they are basically two blocks made from acrylic/ plastic each with two holes so you can secure them using the sump pan bolt holes in each corner at that end, they are slightly chamfered so when you go to put the bearing cap with seals attached into position it guides you in. They must be fairly precision made. I was going to post the pics from my google search but they are copy right, so anyone else who wants to see em search " seal guides 270304" in google and select images, theres a couple of good flicker pics 
Think i will use some rtv as a lube on the seals, seen some pics of how it can go wrong, also read now that some people just inject silicone insted of the ERR913 seal (probably ok if engine is a rebuild project and not covered in oil already), oh and sticking the bearing cap in the freezer before refitting ( wont be bothering with that one)
seals arrived today 36p each for Bearmach from lrdirect bargain
Think i will use some rtv as a lube on the seals, seen some pics of how it can go wrong, also read now that some people just inject silicone insted of the ERR913 seal (probably ok if engine is a rebuild project and not covered in oil already), oh and sticking the bearing cap in the freezer before refitting ( wont be bothering with that one)
seals arrived today
36p each for Bearmach from lrdirect bargain 
Cheers Guys mine will arrive on Wednesday! I have the Sump off ready to go! Ive ordered 4 as well just incase i get a little ham fisted.
I ordered mien from Paddocks for 46P each so hopefully there not Britpart! But im sure a bit of RTV on them as well will help.
I will also post afew pics on how i got on.
I ordered mien from Paddocks for 46P each so hopefully there not Britpart! But im sure a bit of RTV on them as well will help.
I will also post afew pics on how i got on.
Ive got my engine ready a day early just because i could
Sump off
Remove oil lift / return tubes
Undo the two 14mm 12 point bolts and thread in a 8mm bolt into the middle hole to help wiggle the ****** out.
Wiggled out here it is
and there is the culprit a torn T seal!
Will post more pics tomorrow when my T Seals arrive ( Hopefully tomorrow )
Sump off
Remove oil lift / return tubes
Undo the two 14mm 12 point bolts and thread in a 8mm bolt into the middle hole to help wiggle the ****** out.
Wiggled out here it is
and there is the culprit a torn T seal!
Will post more pics tomorrow when my T Seals arrive ( Hopefully tomorrow )
Land Rover haven't used sump gaskets for years, they use silicon instead
the T seals should sit something like 1.5mm proud of the gasket face when all fitted and bolted up. Unless yours were damaged on removing the bearing cap, that might be part of the reason why they were leaking.
Engine looks nice n clean inside
Engine looks nice n clean inside
they should only sit .8mm proud of the sump face and flush with the other face. ( Thats what Haynes say! )
And no it was not it was just to make the job easier and admittedly i sat the engine up on its end and was a little scared of it falling over and breaking them...
And no it was not it was just to make the job easier and admittedly i sat the engine up on its end and was a little scared of it falling over and breaking them...
Hi I have a pretty big oil leak which looks to be from the bell housing which is definitely engine oil. Couple of stupid questions. Has any one done it with out removing the engine if so any tips? How would I tell the difference between a t seal issue or a main oil seal failure?
Thanks for any help
Jonnym
Thanks for any help
Jonnym
Hi I have a pretty big oil leak which looks to be from the bell housing which is definitely engine oil. Couple of stupid questions. Has any one done it with out removing the engine if so any tips? How would I tell the difference between a t seal issue or a main oil seal failure?
Thanks for any help
Jonnym
Thanks for any help
Jonnym
wally bennett
Offroader
Dont know if this is relevant or not but last year i re-built my 2.5td 1989 90 engine it,s in my series 11 109 and imediatly had an oil leak from rear of the sump i phoned Paddocks for a new sump gasket and was told we dont do them you just use a silicon sealent so thinking i had c****d it up by fitting a gasket i removed sump cleaned everything up put a bead of sealent on the sump and re-fitted it.
It now leaked from everywhere not just the back!! back to the drawing board to discover that the 2.5td did have a sump gasket fitted so fitted one (thats the second one fitted) but it still leaked so someone on this site said "T" seals and it can be done with engine in situe. so removed sump again and rear main block and fitted new " T " seals with plenty of silicon to make sure fitted new sump gasket (third one now ) but it still leaked. Its not from the flywheel side of the housing its from between the housing and the block.
The manual says the early engines had a big "O" ring between them but discotinued on later engines so use "Hylogrip 2,000" instead. My engine and block had nowere to fit an "O"ring.
I failed to get that silicon so used a normal black silicon (even today i have failed to get that specified sealent so have ordered some "Curl-T as its the same spec)
Maybe the silicon i used was not up to the job and thats why it leaked about 1/2 pint on a 40 mile run.
I have just started to fix the leak i need to change the G/Box its noisy and jumps out of second on the over run and while the box is out its simple to take the engine out to remove sump and flywheel housing to do the job without drowding in oil drips.
Wally
"Annother tip is dont believe what Padocks tell you ask people on this site"
It now leaked from everywhere not just the back!! back to the drawing board to discover that the 2.5td did have a sump gasket fitted so fitted one (thats the second one fitted) but it still leaked so someone on this site said "T" seals and it can be done with engine in situe. so removed sump again and rear main block and fitted new " T " seals with plenty of silicon to make sure fitted new sump gasket (third one now ) but it still leaked. Its not from the flywheel side of the housing its from between the housing and the block.
The manual says the early engines had a big "O" ring between them but discotinued on later engines so use "Hylogrip 2,000" instead. My engine and block had nowere to fit an "O"ring.
I failed to get that silicon so used a normal black silicon (even today i have failed to get that specified sealent so have ordered some "Curl-T as its the same spec)
Maybe the silicon i used was not up to the job and thats why it leaked about 1/2 pint on a 40 mile run.
I have just started to fix the leak i need to change the G/Box its noisy and jumps out of second on the over run and while the box is out its simple to take the engine out to remove sump and flywheel housing to do the job without drowding in oil drips.
Wally
"Annother tip is dont believe what Padocks tell you ask people on this site"
naylz
Big Landy Fan
If by main seal you mean rear crankshaft oil seal then you would be getting oil actually inside the bellhousing and it would contaminate your clutch and you would see it drain from the wading/drain plug hole.
I did my T seals as a result of this thread, i did mine with engine in, lying on my back getting dripped in oil. It is of course possible to renew the T seals this way but would be a hell of a lot easier if by chance your engine was already removed. Now I have to admit here that I think eithermy T seals are now leaking again or the other thought I've had is it maybe the seal between rear crankshaft oil seal housing where it mates with the engine block. I do believe the other member tomeread also had his leaking again and re-did them using a silicone that he injected in. Basically the T seal itself is like a rubbery liquorice T shaped thing that has to squash a bit to get into its proper position, you remove the sump then the n05 bearing cap (iirc) and the T seals fit either side of that, sounds easy but the hard part is getting it back in the engine block without damaging those T seals, you can buy or make some guides but even then you may find you need to chamfer the leading edge of the seals just so they slide in rather than shave bits off.
If I was to do mine again I am probably going to take the engine out, this will make life a lot easier re-doing those T seals again and I will take that opportunity to to the clutch and rear crankshaft oil seal as well.
I did my T seals as a result of this thread, i did mine with engine in, lying on my back getting dripped in oil. It is of course possible to renew the T seals this way but would be a hell of a lot easier if by chance your engine was already removed. Now I have to admit here that I think eithermy T seals are now leaking again or the other thought I've had is it maybe the seal between rear crankshaft oil seal housing where it mates with the engine block. I do believe the other member tomeread also had his leaking again and re-did them using a silicone that he injected in. Basically the T seal itself is like a rubbery liquorice T shaped thing that has to squash a bit to get into its proper position, you remove the sump then the n05 bearing cap (iirc) and the T seals fit either side of that, sounds easy but the hard part is getting it back in the engine block without damaging those T seals, you can buy or make some guides but even then you may find you need to chamfer the leading edge of the seals just so they slide in rather than shave bits off.
If I was to do mine again I am probably going to take the engine out, this will make life a lot easier re-doing those T seals again and I will take that opportunity to to the clutch and rear crankshaft oil seal as well.