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Chassis Tactics

H

H81

In Second Gear
Hi All,

Would be grateful for anyone's thoughts on this. I have a budget of 8.5k (absolute max) and could either buy a 90 (ex mod 2.5na) which has a new rear cross member or other chassis repair for circa 4.5k (several examples I have found) or same vehicle with 'sound chassis' from mod dealer (again have found several).

My question is - is there really such thing as a sound chassis on a late 80s defender? I'm tempted to get the cheaper landy and then put a galvanised chassis with remaining budget on when the original gets too bad.

If anyone has any thoughts on Chassis condition on vehicles of this age would be most helpful!

My experience of landys is limited - series 2a as my first on road vehicle years ago and then fair bit of time driving snatch (sh*te) and wmik (good) in Afghan but I know very little about the reality of chassis corrosion/longevity!

Cheers

H
 
i had a 1984 ninety and wrote this a while back, easier to quote it.

DarrenH said:
nastiest areas i have come accross and sorted are front dumb irons (the bits where the jacking tubes are, and surrounding area) upper spring mountings for the front axle, and area above the big rubber bump stops. the large outriggers for the bulkhead (bit of a water trap against the chassis rails) and they also get smothered with mud and water from the road wheels. moving along the chassis you have fuel tank mountings (if it has a side mount tank) and tube outriggers on both sides behind the front doors that support the tub. next along the chassis is the rear upper spring mountings and bump stops (same water and mud traps as the front), the upper rear cross member where the ends of the A arms bolt to, rust badly at the triangle fillets onto the chassis rails, then just behind that towards the rear of the vehicle is the rear cross member which is a big fail point. theres usually a join just to the rear of the rear spring mounts if its been replaced, youd spot it a mile off. if its the original chassis you need to have a serious poke around the rear cross member and extensions to the chassis rails. take an old pot scrubbing brush to get mud and dust off
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Thanks Darren - that's helpful. That's the kind of info I'm after - my concern is that I pay a premium for a so called solid chassis which then needs work and my budgets pretty much gone.
 
i dont think its possible to say X- Y years will be horrific, A- M bordeline, N - W years good.

all you can do is take it at face value, and place that value in the condition of chassis and running gear.

i've done the cheap route with mega chassis welding, and the expensive route paying higher purchase price with with an A1 chassis. i've still ended up spending on the initially more expensive vehicle. unless you find a cossetted freak vehicle i dont think any are immune to the rot, as above really, almost make a checklist of things to look at, dont get distracted with small talk, go over it with fine tooth and see if you think its worth the asking price
 
I bought a 84 Ninety 4 years ago. Had been patched and I thought it was OK. It wasnt. Got through 2 mots before being pronounced terminal. Go to Stock4x4 Essex website and their gallery you will see my black and white landy new chassis job. And the old one. It was shot.
 
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