• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Cliff - 1981 Series 3 109 V8 Stage 1

Since posting my video I've been thinking about it and I think I'm being a bit stupid. Because I'm using a battery charger through conducting wires immersed in the water (electrolyte) and the low resistance through it, it's probably pulling too much current (ohms law an all that), which is doing the damage. I need a resistor in the circuit to control the current draw. I have a feeling I'll find the problem repeated when I go check in the morning. Hopefully the charger doesn't die first. :eek:
 
I've now been out and removed the frame from the tank; results are pretty good all said and done. Yep, the welding wire didn't fare any better and had dissolved leaving the charger O/C; however, it had lasted long enough for the remaining rust to be converted/removed. I now know how to improve the setup next time.

IMG-20230826-132240.jpg


This end looks much better now. I can see what needs repairing

IMG-20230826-132232.jpg


And the hidden side is much improved, all that flakey rot no more.

IMG-20230826-132155.jpg



And a video short by way of update.

 
I almost forgot I had this thread it's been so long.
Repeated here for completeness:

Rolled back the tarp, cleaned away some cobwebs, cleaned a few other bits n bobs, then checked it was still turning over. Checked oil was pumping around to the rockers.
Hopefully I can get back to work on it now the weather is warming up.
IMG_20240408_153428.jpg
 
Hi,
...I would reconsider the Holley/Edelbrock carburettor.
The engine is guaranteed to run no better than with a correctly adjusted SU. But it will definitely use a lot more gas.

Greetings
Frank
 
Checked I had No.1 piston at TDC after compression stroke and the distributor in correct position. Next it was fit the new Bosch coil and spark amplifier in place of the one on the dizzy. Connected up ignition feed to coil and the amp and earths. I took the HT lead off the dizzy and put a spark plug on it and tested coil and amp for spark. I have a nice big fat spark, so happy days. Next up is to jerry rig a fuel supply to the carb and see if it will fire up. It should do as it was running nicely before I had it all apart, but - I had it all apart! All being well, I should be able to set up the timing and then concentrate on getting the fuel tank hooked up to the fuel pump and have it running again.

The main jobs apart from all the remaining bodywork finishing and painting, are the rear brake lines, drum brakes, and suspension springs. Bodywork includes the doors which I think are going to need steel frame repairs, etc. I may go down the rolling restoration path if I can get it to that stage, but it's more likely I'll need to just crack on and get the work done while its where it is. Oh for an indoor space!
 
Put some fuel in the carb and cranked the engine, it fired and purred! :D I need to get a strobe and adjust the timing, but it sound lovely. Only stressful moment was a small fire at the carb after getting greedy and adding a bit more fuel :eek:. Won't be doing that again, good job I was prepared for such an eventuality. :oopsy:

I'll post a video when I have it plumbed in and timed properly. Happy days.

I'm now compiling a very long to-do list.
 
Here's a short video of first start up having connected up the fuel pump fed from a fuel can. I'd primed the fuel system and this was first of the ignition key after that. Obviously I have to set timing, I've ordered a strobe. Eventually, will tune it when it's on the road. The background noises are my neighbour who's building an extension.

 
Last edited:
Cliff4WD said:
Here's a short video of first start up having connected up the fuel pump fed from a fuel can. I'd primed the fuel system and this was first of the ignition key after that. Obviously I have to set timing, I've ordered a strobe. Eventually, will tune it when it's on the road. The background noises are my neighbour who's building an extension.

Click to expand...
Great stuff on the button ,sounds nice no rattling noises shouldn’t need to much tuning
 
Cliff4WD said:
Here's a short video of first start up having connected up the fuel pump fed from a fuel can. I'd primed the fuel system and this was first of the ignition key after that. Obviously I have to set timing, I've ordered a strobe. Eventually, will tune it when it's on the road. The background noises are my neighbour who's building an extension.

Click to expand...
It sounds great!
 
Since all my efforts thus far have been at the front end of the vehicle, it's about time I did a bit more on the back half. I've obviously got to finish off several jobs I started but have not finished, but taking a linear approach makes for pretty slow progress. I need to get the tub off to move forward on several areas needing attention, so that's what I've been up to.
Typically, freeing nuts and bolts turned out to be less than straight forward. The fuel tank was also in the way of accessing nuts (none were captive) on the rear cross member. Dropped the tank with quite a struggle getting the rubber pipe free of the filler pipe. I managed to shear 5 of the 10 bolts holding the tub on the cross member, but got all the seat box side ones undone bar one which I had to cut off. Now in a lot of pain for my contorted efforts.

Just a couple of pics.

IMG-20240422-131434.jpg


IMG-20240422-131443.jpg


Question now is how I'm going to lift the tub off? 🤔
 
Cliff4WD said:
Since all my efforts thus far have been at the front end of the vehicle, it's about time I did a bit more on the back half. I've obviously got to finish off several jobs I started but have not finished, but taking a linear approach makes for pretty slow progress. I need to get the tub off to move forward on several areas needing attention, so that's what I've been up to.
Typically, freeing nuts and bolts turned out to be less than straight forward. The fuel tank was also in the way of accessing nuts (none were captive) on the rear cross member. Dropped the tank with quite a struggle getting the rubber pipe free of the filler pipe. I managed to shear 5 of the 10 bolts holding the tub on the cross member, but got all the seat box side ones undone bar one which I had to cut off. Now in a lot of pain for my contorted efforts.

Just a couple of pics.

View attachment 529928

View attachment 529929

Question now is how I'm going to lift the tub off? 🤔
Click to expand...
I’m not to far away if you want a hand lifting it off …a Monday morning early is good ,I can pop in on the way home from work ..
 
Engine crane one side up, slide under a long bit of wood, something sturdy like an old fence post.
Repeat other side.
Should now be higher up than the rear mounting points.
2 more woods as slides/ramps at the crossmember end.
Slide tub along wood and down wooden ramps.
Stand tub on end, maybe with guy wires to stop it blowing over onto you.
Refitting is reverse of removal, though may require a bit more oomph ;)
 
SWBFreeLoader said:
Engine crane one side up, slide under a long bit of wood, something sturdy like an old fence post.
Repeat other side.
Should now be higher up than the rear mounting points.
2 more woods as slides/ramps at the crossmember end.
Slide tub along wood and down wooden ramps.
Stand tub on end, maybe with guy wires to stop it blowing over onto you.
Refitting is reverse of removal, though may require a bit more oomph ;)
Click to expand...
Yeah, thought about that and will most likely give it a go, but will still have the problem of moving it around for the work that will need doing. Still, where there's a will.
 
After fixing my house central heating/hot water system, I managed to find time to have another look at my tub
First things was to pull the rear light wiring through, then free the stays at the front from the seat belt anchor points, and the 2 stays for the side seals. It was then a matter of jacking it up a bit to confirm it's free from the chassis and testing the lifting concept. All seems good, so time to empty it all out and decide where to put it.
Seems like a 3 man job to lift it to me; not light at all.

Clear at the front

IMG-20240424-172209.jpg


Lifted free of the chassis and supported on a couple of 4x2s

IMG-20240424-172154.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom