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Dirtyberties engine thread

dirtyberty

dirtyberty

Extreme Landy Fan
Well today my friends , i was cleaning bertys engine, using the old wire wool , scrapers, i found i needed smaller tools.
so out came the make up bag;''' brilliant , the good brushes ,eye shadow aplicaters , tweezers they got into all the small bits that was awkuard..... had lots of oily fun, Bertys battery on charge .
so hopefully the engine WILL be started tomorow so the wizards can give me a better veiw of what too do . many thanks . happy sunday
 
dirtyberty said:
Well today my friends , i was cleaning bertys engine, using the old wire wool , scrapers, i found i needed smaller tools.
so out came the make up bag;''' brilliant , the good brushes ,eye shadow aplicaters , tweezers they got into all the small bits that was awkuard..... had lots of oily fun, Bertys battery on charge .
so hopefully the engine WILL be started tomorow so the wizards can give me a better veiw of what too do . many thanks . happy sunday
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Engine cleaning with make up tools - that is true dedication šŸ‘
 
Did we ever get to the bottom of the knocking on berty's engine? I'm pretty sure I remember you saying it had been run without oil so the bearings will be badly damaged. Starting it up before checking and changing the bearings probably isn't the best idea.
 
erubus said:
Did we ever get to the bottom of the knocking on berty's engine? I'm pretty sure I remember you saying it had been run without oil so the bearings will be badly damaged. Starting it up before checking and changing the bearings probably isn't the best idea.
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Hi Erubus, It was ran without oil before the mot. the
the man who fitted my petrol tank got it running and drove it too me ..about a mile and half away.. it was very hot. the day after i checked the oil and was empty . I put oil in him, then put shocks on, new props then took it for mot , too which he passed. then the more i drove it the knocking began, then got louder and loosing the power.The last time i started him was in febuary... thenleft him until i joind this forum , thats when i went too start him and the battery flat . i got battery on chargee now.. what do you think , should i try tommorow
 
Personally I wouldn't attempt to start it until I knew what the damage was. With no oil, the big ends and main bearings will have taken the brunt of the damage (hence the knocking, as the clearances will be huge now) but the bores could be scored as well, damaged rings, all sorts. Any further running could potentially totally trash it and turn it from a fairly expensive repair to a complete rebuild.

You could drop the sump and find the bearings and bores are totally fine though and all you've wasted is a bit of time and a gasket
 
erubus said:
Personally I wouldn't attempt to start it until I knew what the damage was. With no oil, the big ends and main bearings will have taken the brunt of the damage (hence the knocking, as the clearances will be huge now) but the bores could be scored as well, damaged rings, all sorts. Any further running could potentially totally trash it and turn it from a fairly expensive repair to a complete rebuild.

You could drop the sump and find the bearings and bores are totally fine though and all you've wasted is a bit of time and a gasket
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I agree with erbus I'd drop the sump and inspect the insides sorry for the bad news
 
erubus said:
Personally I wouldn't attempt to start it until I knew what the damage was. With no oil, the big ends and main bearings will have taken the brunt of the damage (hence the knocking, as the clearances will be huge now) but the bores could be scored as well, damaged rings, all sorts. Any further running could potentially totally trash it and turn it from a fairly expensive repair to a complete rebuild.

You could drop the sump and find the bearings and bores are totally fine though and all you've wasted is a bit of time and a gasket
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so by dropping the sump , what should i look for? shall i post photos and send them... and what tools will i need , i have ratchets and many sockets, spanners ,, do i need a jack for under the sump ? im going for it in the morning .. got no help thou so its just me , berty and you lot too guide mešŸ˜Ø
 
You just need a ratchet and a socket to remove the sump just remember to drain the oil first šŸ˜‚ once that's off you need to remove at least one big end the one nearest the flywheel gets its oil last so will show most wear the bearing should be a uniform grey colour with no scoring marks but I've seen plenty where the grey material is worn to the copper base and also bearings very discoloured due to overheating you can remove the crank main bearing caps to check them
 
Well i have everything which has been mentioned by the both of you . thankyou .i shall wish myself luck and look forward too getting rather stuck in too it , i,ll do the school run , see too the horses then go for it ..be about 11.30 start ,,,;) many thanks .jo dirtyberty
 
also sorry too pester you all , what oil shall i use too fill back up , thou there is a post on seireis oil , somwhere im sure :)
 
Connecting rod cap nuts (big ends). 25 lbf. ft.
Main bearing cap bolts (crankshaft bearings). 85 lbf. ft.

For oil 15w 40 as a minimum maybe 20w 50 but cheap oil changed often is better than expensive that's never changed so whatever you get your hands for the moment.

If you can get a torch and look right up into the cylinders and get a pic if you can. you want to see faint diamond shape scratches if you see straight up and down scores that's not good. the oil pump pick up might get in the way so you may need to take that off too oh and it will make getting the sump off awkward so you'll need to jiggle the sump around a bit.
Leave the main bearing next the flywheel alone that needs special seals to put back if it needs to come out later we'll cross that bridge then.
 
conkers said:
Connecting rod cap nuts (big ends). 25 lbf. ft.
Main bearing cap bolts (crankshaft bearings). 85 lbf. ft.

For oil 15w 40 as a minimum maybe 20w 50 but cheap oil changed often is better than expensive that's never changed so whatever you get your hands for the moment.

If you can get a torch and look right up into the cylinders and get a pic if you can. you want to see faint diamond shape scratches if you see straight up and down scores that's not good. the oil pump pick up might get in the way so you may need to take that off too oh and it will make getting the sump off awkward so you'll need to jiggle the sump around a bit.
Leave the main bearing next the flywheel alone that needs special seals to put back if it needs to come out later we'll cross that bridge then.
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okie dokie then , my gosh im a bag of nerves ,but i will do it with the help of you good folk . cant wait . many thankyous too you all
 
When the oil has drained out put the plug back in so that you dont lose it and also thr last remnants dont drip on you when you take the sump off.

Peter
 
On the plus side, as it hasn't run since February, the insides should be nice and well drained of oil so you won't get loads of drips coming from the innards like you do with a freshly used engine. It will all be in the sump. Take the opportunity to give the sump a really good clean, could be full of sludge if it hasn't been off for years.
 
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