• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

Odd LR 88 engine number

Not sure if there is a difference between lhd and rhd, as to which way the cables are fitted. If there is, you just need to know which end is input to know which end to connect to.

As long as all wires connect to the same end, surely it doesn't matter which end it is :D
 
Exactly "you just need to know which end is input to know which end to connect to", just thought I'd mention it, in case it was the other way round on lhd... Still works the same way, just need to know which end is which.
 
Exactly "you just need to know which end is input to know which end to connect to", just thought I'd mention it, in case it was the other way round on lhd... Still works the same way, just need to know which end is which.
But my point was that as long as all the wires are the same end.. you don't need to know which end is which.. either end of the resistor will work just as well!

Anyway probably just me being pedantic.. :whistle:
 
Naaah... Its me being dense. Been a long week already....

Yes, I agree, as long as the big brown and red feed wire and the wire for the feed to the new style heater plugs are at the same end, it'll work. Regardless of which end its at ( If you tried that with the old style plugs, you'd fry them....) What you're doing is bypassing the resistor. So, I'm saying the same as you, but in a less straightforward way....

Ignore the smaller wires, they are just for the warning light, which won't work with the new style plugs anyway. (well.. You can make it work, but not much point)
 
Interestingly i dont see 367 on it and I cant find the site that said it was a Danish military number.

The below was the info I copied from somewhere years ago, it mentions Danish Swedish and Belgian, Turkish and Santana. Damned if I can remember where I had it from though.

236xxxxxx Series IIA petrol 2286cc (fitted to 88 inch airportable).
256xxxxxx 8:1 Compression, emissions controlled for USA and Sweden 1972 Models.
361xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 8:1 CR 5-bearing.
364xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 7:1 CR 5-bearing.
365xxxxxx 8:1 Compression for Military 24 volt vehicles.
367xxxxxx 2.3 Diesel for Danish Military 24 Volt.
895xxxxxx With 24 Volt electrical system for Dutch and Danish Diesel Military Lightweights only.
901xxxxxx 8:1 Compression.
902xxxxxx 8:1 Compression, sequence followed 901 when all numbers in that sequence had been used.
903xxxxxx 8:1 Compression possibly for non Land Rover use.
904xxxxxx 7:1 Compression.
905xxxxxx For Turkish CKD 1972 -1974.
911xxxxxx 8:1 Compression possibly for non Land Rover use.
951xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 3-bearing (fitted to 88 inch airportable).
952xxxxxx 7:1 Compression Military 12 Volt.
991xxxxxx 8:1 Compression supplementary build by Santana.
992xxxxxx 7:1 Compression supplementary build by Santana.
995xxxxxx 8:1 Compression For Belgian Military 4x2 1974-1975
 
Naaah... Its me being dense. Been a long week already....

Yes, I agree, as long as the big brown and red feed wire and the wire for the feed to the new style heater plugs are at the same end, it'll work. Regardless of which end its at ( If you tried that with the old style plugs, you'd fry them....) What you're doing is bypassing the resistor. So, I'm saying the same as you, but in a less straightforward way....

Ignore the smaller wires, they are just for the warning light, which won't work with the new style plugs anyway. (well.. You can make it work, but not much point)

If anyone chooses to connect in the orange dash lamp to the new style plugs, you need to change the dash bulb for a 12v one. The correct bulb for the pig tail plugs wired in series is 6v. The only 6v bulb on the vehicle and they are becoming difficult to source.
 
Did you ever get any further with this engine number mystery?

Turns out my Series also has a 5MB '369*****' engine in it.... which suggests the possibility that they have been mis-stamped is remote. I haven't been able to find any reference to engine numbers in the 369 series other than this thread.
 
Welcome to the forum... it dont think there was ever a resolution to that one. Have you got any pictures of the engine in general and the stamped number?
 
Found this: http://www.lrfaq.org/FAQ.3.EngineDrivetrainDataTransfer.html Which is pretty comprehensive. Interestingly i dont see 367 on it and I cant find the site that said it was a Danish military number. Still cant find any information in Santana built engines. I wonder if it is just 366 with the secind 6 stamped upside down like Big Sandy suggests. Maybe a Monday morning engine!
Some errors and omissions on that list so perhaps don't use as gospel (eg it says an 11H is 2.5 from 1985, its actually a 2.25 (2.3) from 1983-85).

Edit - just realised this that post is over four years old šŸ˜… I need to double check the dates.
 
Here we go - got some pictures of the engine today.....

52569903453_b46b27c144_b.jpg


52569372461_f5c60f0c4c_b.jpg


52568913527_94100cb451_b.jpg


52568913682_b6273ffd7b_b.jpg


And this is what is cast into the RH side of the block...

52569372871_03b254a7b3_b.jpg


These are the casting marks on the LH side of the engine

52569650614_5025769383_b.jpg


52568914032_93417f3933_b.jpg
 
Hmm, the plot thickens. Definitely seems to be a 5mb 2.25d. it has M14 glow plugs so also a series one and not early 110.
 
FX4 Taxi currently looks like the most likely answer... Dates are a pretty close match to that application too. Haven't been able to confirm this verbatim yet, but it looks probable that a 369 engine was destined for the FX4R (for Rover) version of the London Cab.
 
That would certainly make sense. You'll probably want to give it a good going over. In taxi application,they were very unreliable due to the amount of time spent at idle. The oil pressure was too low and timing chains stretched and broke. They also had a tendency to crack between valve seats for whatever reason.

Apparently some 10J engines went to Belgium around this time for Volga cars although that seems an unlikely source for your one. Some also went to America as mercruisrr marine engines, again it seems unlikely this would be where yours comes from FX4 does seem most likely.
 
Back
Top Bottom