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Series 3 Hazards working, indicators not

SWBFreeLoader said:
The repro hazard switches (of all types, sadly) are massively shite across the board. You may well just have 'one of those'.

Like Samo I made my own hazard sollution for my 2A and used one of those Hella switches...I already had it :p
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I’ve had it for around 15 years and up to now it’s been fine. Will pull it to bits tomorrow and check it out
 
I moved the hazard switch to the centre, it is less vulnerable to being knocked. I moved the odometer reset to just underneath the dash where there's also a convenient hole already there. Note I swapped the speedo and gauges around, this was mainly due to OCD but it's actually in my line of sight and matches our Vauxhall.
I considered swapping round the indicator stalk but it was too complex.

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robwlondon said:
If you have crimped spade connectors pull test each one. If the wire moves at all crimp it up if its clean or remake if its corroded. I've wasted a lot of time in the past seeing a cable in a crimp and assuming wrongly that means I have a connection.
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Even the original OEM Land Rover connections corrode on the wire side which means stripping back the wire sometimes up to 10mm before you see shiny copper.
So I fill the innards of all the crimp connectors with PTFE grease prior to crimping them.
It is incredibly effective, and I've had no corroded crimp connections in the 5 years I've owned my current vehicle. Previously I'd be attending to one of them every 2 years or so (mainly the sidelights/indicators or under bonnet connections). :)
 
JOHNSTAR said:
I have an Autosparks loom which plugs into the indicator circuit, so it's straightforward replacement wise. I will take the hazard switch out this weekend and if necessary I will buy a new one.
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My vehicle came with a 'new wiring loom' inherited from the previous owner/butcher. The cable, colours and sizing was correct but the quality of the crimping was rubbish (and I'm not being picky just because I used to be a wiremen, these had been done by an amateur). I ended up replacing all of them (using the PTFE grease I mentioned earlier).
Strangely enough the black multiway Lucas connectors under the bonnet and the indicator stalk connector had been made perfectly.
I'm not folly with Autosparks looms so I can't comment on them, but are new wiring looms delivered without the crimp connections?
 
JOHNSTAR said:
I’ve had it for around 15 years
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Pushing your luck for 14 years 11 months then, aren't you :p

Common failure on these is the heating up and subsequent melting of the support structure by the 2 sprung connectors that let the green bypass when the switch is in the off position. This is the bit that powers the indicators and 15 years of power going through it is enough to kill it.

Mr Stein said:
but are new wiring looms delivered without the crimp connections
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None of the ones i've ever fitted were, with a few limited exceptions to do with special/obsolete connectors. I will say the crimps can be crap though!
 
Mr Stein said:
He stole the thing I said!
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It bares repeating because until you look at the back of the switch, you just never know.

I was rummaging through some old switches last weekend and found an OE Stag hazard pull switch. I suspect with the connector block etc it's an exact duplicate of the S3 type. Lo and behold the 2 connectors are stuck at funny angles, covered in excess carbon buildup and the plastic is singed and melted.
The new switches normally don't work long enough to even get that far.
 
SWBFreeLoader said:
It bares repeating because until you look at the back of the switch, you just never know.

I was rummaging through some old switches last weekend and found an OE Stag hazard pull switch. I suspect with the connector block etc it's an exact duplicate of the S3 type. Lo and behold the 2 connectors are stuck at funny angles, covered in excess carbon buildup and the plastic is singed and melted.
The new switches normally don't work long enough to even get that far.
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It's a switch that can't be substituted by anything better due to its footprint, so it HAS to be that same rubbish design.
Another one is the wiper speed/wash switch - I mean what were they thinking?
 
Sure I have posted this before my hazard switch solution was very simple and I think discrete.
Rocker switch on side of dash casing,defender hazard relay and some additional wiring.
 

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  • Double pole rocker switch to give hazard lights on a series.pdf
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JOHNSTAR said:
Gave my hazards switch a good clean and it's still functioning. Replaced the bulb and we are good to go . Will keep an eye on the problem and replace the switch if necessary, but at the time of writing all is good! :)
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Presumably you made sure those pesky spade receptacles at the back are making good contact?

Meanwhile 'Hazard Solution' have their first band rehearsal tomorrow night! :)
 
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