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steveseries72 - S3 88 rebuild

This is the thread I didn't want to start so early into life with my Series 3 88" but you know how one thing leads to another....

For those who may remember, about four or five months ago I decided to drain the fluids from engine, gearbox, transfer and the overdrive to refresh everything, give it a general service and tidy up in preparation for my first full year of use. There was a bit of rough running which was sorted by an exchange distributor, an exhaust that was on its last legs having been patched with an old tin can and a length of scaffold tube with clamps. The brakes were good and it drove fine but it was obvious that at nearly 50 years old it had been kept alive rather than 'preserved' to any great extent by the previous owner.
Draining the gearbox presented me with a little gift in the drain plug, a couple of straight cut teeth, possibly reverse or first gear and from that point on I didn't use it again, a decision was made to pull the box to rebuild it. Trouble was this is one of a couple of old classics in the garage and I didn't have room to start work on the Landie until I had built a new shed / workshop to store the bits from it as well as various components from other vehicles. This was completed in October, new racking installed in the garage followed and the strip down could begin.
The lower dash panel had already been removed highlighting some minor rust in the heater trunking that runs through it, this was repaired but highlighted a further problem with parts of the wiring loom that had been cooked at some point. The wiring was a mess with add ons for rear fogs, work lamp, reversing lamps, tow bar, interior light all wired from the battery with inline fuses alongside the existing but frail loom.
The bulkhead had always been a bit suspect, lots of filler skimmed or rather 'trowelled' over the mounting plates for the clutch master and the heater housing, obviously from water ingress through the windscreen bulkhead seal, the ends at the top of the 'A' posts were also full of pug and it all looked like this had been done a few years ago just to keep it on the road.
As I say, one thing led to another, with the loom in a poor state and the gearbox coming out I thought there wouldn't be a better time to address the bulkhead issues.
Further inspection whilst removing the front end revealed a couple of holes in the chassis, mostly confined to the offside front dumb iron. This has been repaired before judging by the state of it, there are holes on top, side and bottom and although it doesn't seem to have affected the front spring hanger this needs doing also.

As I say, I was hoping to get two or three years use out of the series before getting involved in any of this but having been
a) pressed into this through circumstance, and
b) inspired by others on this forum
I thought I'd give it a go. I was also posting updates fairly regularly on things I had completed or was doing some days and thought it better to write my musings, post some pics and share experiences and frustrations. I am not a professional, my experience is with classic car interiors, this is certainly not going to be a concours resto with everything farmed out for powder coating, painting etc etc, indeed I plan to do as much as I can myself. Life is one big lesson and my philosophy is you only get out what you put in with learning and besides if I cock anything up I've got you guys for help and advice!
 
The start and the purchase a year or so back. All looked quite straight apart from the bloody awful blue top hats on the axles. Turns out everything that could be painted was painted
 

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Strip down commences. These are pictures from the past couple of weeks, most of which have been posted elsewhere on the forum before. I thought they would be better off in one place. Everything coming off has been bagged, tagged, all fixings kept. I can bet you all now I still won’t remember what’s what when the time comes to reassemble 🙄
 

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Today was spent waiting for a puller that I’ve ordered to arrive. Need to remove the drop arm lever from the steering box to get the column out so the bulkhead can come out.
Still waiting so in the meantime I had a check over the heater matrix which was fine and then pulled the clutch master apart which was not so fine as it was full of rubber, rust and goo. The reservoir seemed to be a mix of fluid and water which is strange as the pedal felt okay before dismantling. I know the fluid is hygroscopic but there was a fair bit in there.
New master and slave will be added to the list of parts as the master is badly corroded and scored.
Both heater and pedal assembly rubbed down. The clutch reservoir had previously leaked fluid and rusted away part of the footwell and the mounting bracket so a coating of Jenolite was applied prior to brush on zinc etch primer.
 

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Not much progress over the past couple of weeks as had a dreadful lurgy that was a persistent thing to shift. Heater matrix checked and flushed, primed and satin blacked the casing before the weather turned cold.
 

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My steering arm puller arrived last week and whilst waiting I soaked the drop arm from the steering box in penetrating fluid and wire brushed the loose corrosion off. The nut was finger tight although did (thank goodness) have the tab washer bent over. It was probably the only thing keeping it together! 😳
Puller was hard work until I deployed the 3’ breaker bar and the arm moved.
Steering box off, chassis plate undone from bulkhead along with front sill to bulkhead fixings, again loose.
The footwell to bulkhead foot bolts are as tight as a nuns knickers and will have to be ground off but cold stopped play today.
Nearly at bulkhead removal stage.
Started compiling a list of items I need now which is looking frighteningly expensive.
 
Steering box looked good and I can’t say there was much play in it before dismantling to be honest. Further examination shows there to be a load of slop in the upper bearing though so will need to be replaced. Marked the splines and drop arm as recommended by other forum members to aid reassembly, used some of my wife’s bright pink nail varnish as it stands out and shouldn’t come off. Probably end up in trouble as no doubt I will have used the most expensive one!
 

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Steering box looked good and I can’t say there was much play in it before dismantling to be honest. Further examination shows there to be a load of slop in the upper bearing though so will need to be replaced. Marked the splines and drop arm as recommended by other forum members to aid reassembly, used some of my wife’s bright pink nail varnish as it stands out and shouldn’t come off. Probably end up in trouble as no doubt I will have used the most expensive one!
I “rehomed” a nail varnish from Mrs FTDs collection when rebuilding the engine, then casually mentioned it a couple of weeks later 🤣🤣🤣
 
Sorry to hear you've had to start the rebuild rather sooner than you had hoped. I had the same problem. I had absolutely no intention of rebuilding a Land Rover. I wanted something fun to toddle around in as a replacement for an Uaz 469 I used to own. So I went to a reputable dealer who assured me that " a Saturday morning with a wire brush and some Schutz and it would be as good as new" :rofl: I ran it (badly) for a few months and then it dawned on me that I had paid too much as the problems were rather deeper than I had been led to believe. And the rest, as they say is history. I still struggle to believe I actually did a complete rebuild myself - I got there in the end and now I have something really rather nice. Yours certainly looked good when you bought it and, just think, when you've finished, how superb it will be and, better than that, you will know it inside out and know that the work was done properly. So, good luck and enjoy the journey, take plenty of photos which you can look back on from your arm chair afterwards (as well as getting the fun from driving it, of course).
 
Sorry to hear you've had to start the rebuild rather sooner than you had hoped. I had the same problem. I had absolutely no intention of rebuilding a Land Rover. I wanted something fun to toddle around in as a replacement for an Uaz 469 I used to own. So I went to a reputable dealer who assured me that " a Saturday morning with a wire brush and some Schutz and it would be as good as new" :rofl: I ran it (badly) for a few months and then it dawned on me that I had paid too much as the problems were rather deeper than I had been led to believe. And the rest, as they say is history. I still struggle to believe I actually did a complete rebuild myself - I got there in the end and now I have something really rather nice. Yours certainly looked good when you bought it and, just think, when you've finished, how superb it will be and, better than that, you will know it inside out and know that the work was done properly. So, good luck and enjoy the journey, take plenty of photos which you can look back on from your arm chair afterwards (as well as getting the fun from driving it, of course).
Thanks Freddie, words of encouragement are always welcome.
You are right, overall it looked good and I was aware of the bulkhead repairs that were needed along with a couple of minor holes in the chassis too. What surprised me was the general laissez faire attitude towards maintenance by the PO. Some things are done to a really high standard, brake master and pipe work is great, the wheel cylinders have even been rotated to have the bleed nipple at the top, but alongside is a really ropey clutch master with bodged fittings. The electrics were shambolic to the point of being dangerous, hence my decision to do it properly now. I haggled well for the purchase though and still think I got it for a bit of a steal and it is an absolute keeper, out of all the vehicles we have my wife and I agree this has a special place with us. I just thought I was going to get a seasons use out of it before starting work!
 
Thanks Freddie, words of encouragement are always welcome.
You are right, overall it looked good and I was aware of the bulkhead repairs that were needed along with a couple of minor holes in the chassis too. What surprised me was the general laissez faire attitude towards maintenance by the PO. Some things are done to a really high standard, brake master and pipe work is great, the wheel cylinders have even been rotated to have the bleed nipple at the top, but alongside is a really ropey clutch master with bodged fittings. The electrics were shambolic to the point of being dangerous, hence my decision to do it properly now. I haggled well for the purchase though and still think I got it for a bit of a steal and it is an absolute keeper, out of all the vehicles we have my wife and I agree this has a special place with us. I just thought I was going to get a seasons use out of it before starting work!
Perhaps you would have got a seasons use or maybe a few seasons but you can’t really accept shambolic electrics , it’s just not worth the risk of losing everything .

Frustrating that the rebuild has come early but what price peace of mind and family safety.

It is mind boggling how some people leave 12v electrics . When we got our old camper the wiring (12v and 240v for hook up) was behind carpet on the walls with the 12v joins just twisted together and resting on the back of the carpet. The more I looked the more I found to the point I had to just accept it was a total rewire .
 
If you are going to do a re-wire, it's worth planning well in advance. For example. I had to remove everything as I was going to rebuild on a new galv chassis. So I thought about "future proofing" and, when I put the rear end loom back in I built into the loom wires to permit fog lamps, reversing lamps and a rear cigarette lighter socket. I then replaced the multi plug where the loom comes up into the engine bay with one big enough for the additional wires. So everything is built in and invisible - appearing as original. I did the same at the front with wires for various things, some of which I will probably never fit, but if I do, the wires are in place. I then brought the extras into an additional fuse box on the engine side of the bulkhead - again, it looks "right" (well I think it does anyway!
Additional fuse box 22 Nov 17.jpg


I also wanted switches in the cab, but without drilling holes or having them all over the place, so I bought a Maplins project box and fitted it beside the steering wheel. Again, not perfect, perhaps, but, I think, it looks OK and, better there is only one hole and the box can be removed easily enough should a future owner want to do so. Of course, in the perfect world, I'd have drilled the four holes in a straight line!:)

Additional switch box 22 Nov 17.jpg
 
If you are going to do a re-wire, it's worth planning well in advance. For example. I had to remove everything as I was going to rebuild on a new galv chassis. So I thought about "future proofing" and, when I put the rear end loom back in I built into the loom wires to permit fog lamps, reversing lamps and a rear cigarette lighter socket. I then replaced the multi plug where the loom comes up into the engine bay with one big enough for the additional wires. So everything is built in and invisible - appearing as original. I did the same at the front with wires for various things, some of which I will probably never fit, but if I do, the wires are in place. I then brought the extras into an additional fuse box on the engine side of the bulkhead - again, it looks "right" (well I think it does anyway!
View attachment 270885

I also wanted switches in the cab, but without drilling holes or having them all over the place, so I bought a Maplins project box and fitted it beside the steering wheel. Again, not perfect, perhaps, but, I think, it looks OK and, better there is only one hole and the box can be removed easily enough should a future owner want to do so. Of course, in the perfect world, I'd have drilled the four holes in a straight line!:)

View attachment 270886
All looks very neat Freddie and ‘in period’. Very worthwhile thinking about. I’m going to get a new loom but will have some additional supplies put in for rear fog, reverse light, trailer and probably a USB charger for starters. Thanks for pointing out.
 
Bulkhead out today and was surprised how easily most of the bolts came undone. I expected it to be rusted solid but only had to resort to the grinder for a couple in the footwells. Good to have moved on with this and started to clean up and cut some metal out to discover the extent of the rot. Appears to be one skin only, the inside doesn’t seem too bad so hopefully a liberal spray of weld through primer before making repair panels to give some protection, I can always use a proprietary cavity wax spray afterwards.
 

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Started work on the bulkhead this afternoon, first patch cut to fit which took just about two hours of faffing about to achieve a reasonable fit. It’s going to be long slow progress I reckon, especially now winter and the colder temperatures are closing in. Hopefully get this welded in tomorrow.
 

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Started work on the bulkhead this afternoon, first patch cut to fit which took just about two hours of faffing about to achieve a reasonable fit. It’s going to be long slow progress I reckon, especially now winter and the colder temperatures are closing in. Hopefully get this welded in tomorrow.
What’s two hours in the great scheme of things, you got a nice fit, well worth the effort!
 
Started work on the bulkhead this afternoon, first patch cut to fit which took just about two hours of faffing about to achieve a reasonable fit. It’s going to be long slow progress I reckon, especially now winter and the colder temperatures are closing in. Hopefully get this welded in tomorrow.
I did my camper rear lights surrounds the same way . It took me ages , mostly getting the repair plate and hole exactly the right size . I must have messed up a couple by taking too much off the repair plate and had to start again 😡

You’ll get there with it but yep it’s a lot of faff !!
 
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