General The workshop adventures of Miffy the 110

[Geobloke]

Positive waves baby!

You know it Sandy… I am lacking the wine and rays but eating a good chunk of cheese

 

[Geobloke]

So doing a little recon on what to do next with the head. I have contacted an engineer about removing the sheared bolt (maybe bolts once the other 5 are out). I am not sure whether the head is going to require a skim, mind you considering Miffy's head has already been skimmed (+/- 24 months ago) I am do not think that is possible again...

So, assuming that he head should be skimmed and cannot be again the options become limiting. Source a good second hand later model head or go the whole hog and speak to Turners about an AMC head...

The latter is more costly up-front, but might be the more prudent option longer-term. What to do, what to do...

Full AMC replacement looks to run to £1665 inc VAT and P&P...

 

[Mike_Hammond]

Seems a lot of extra expense when all you want to do it remove a broken bolt. What leads you to think the head would need skimming again? Unless theres a problem with it a quick clean and a new gasket you'll be on your way again,assuming you're just removing it to get the bolt(s) extracted.

 

[Geobloke]

Seems a lot of extra expense when all you want to do it remove a broken bolt. What leads you to think the head would need skimming again? Unless theres a problem with it a quick clean and a new gasket you'll be on your way again,assuming you're just removing it to get the bolt(s) extracted.

Hi Mike. Absolutely no reason to think it won't be A-OK but I like to be prepared for the worst. I plan to remove the head, split the two halves and see what can be done about that bolt or bolts as I am convinced that more than just that one are going to shear. They just feel like they will.

If there is nothing more untoward then the head can go back on. But any indication of cracking in those injector ports since the last time this head was off and Plan AMC is the way we will have to go. At the end of the day this head has done 220k miles and has had it's one and only skim already, so contingency planning is all I am doing

 

[Mike_Hammond]

Hi Mike. Absolutely no reason to think it won't be A-OK but I like to be prepared for the worst. I plan to remove the head, split the two halves and see what can be done about that bolt or bolts as I am convinced that more than just that one are going to shear. They just feel like they will.

If there is nothing more untoward then the head can go back on. But any indication of cracking in those injector ports since the last time this head was off and Plan AMC is the way we will have to go. At the end of the day this head has done 220k miles and has had it's one and only skim already, so contingency planning is all I am doing

Have you checked your bottom end? ooooer missus!!

My TDI was just starting to wear through the white metal on the shells exposing the copper when I did a full rebuild at a similar mileage. Luckily caught it in time and the crank didn't even need a regrind as it was still in spec and showed no damage on the journals so a polish was all it had. Sorry if I'm be taking you down a rabbit hole.......

20200301_140653.jpg

www.lrukforums.com

 

[Geobloke]

I have removed the rocker shaft and begun the strip down this evening...

Four sheared rocker shaft bolts... Four... :roll: They were so incredibly tight. The first bolt is still sitting up on my desk.



The injector bolts were also incredibly tight, I was sure they were going to all shear off as well. They didn't. but it was a close thing, really close. You all know how a bolt feels just before it shears... :shock:

Next step is to drain the coolant (time for a flush perhaps :roll: ), unplug the glow plugs, drain the fuel, dig out the AC fan loom which for some reason is wound through the arms of the intake manifold, then it is one to the BIG buggers holding the head on... :shock: :shock:

Please please pretty please come out ok...

As for the head gasket I noticed that there is a 1 hole on at the moment (and since the head was skimmed in 2017) but scrolling back through photos Miffy had a 2 hole from the factory. So head skimmed and garage upped the thickness of the gasket by one thickness to accommodate the loss of head material in the skimming process. Good to know. I have ordered a 1 and 2 hole gasket and will measure the piston protrusion once the head is off.

The 2017 gasket change was a head gasket failure, this time around it is a clutch of sheared bolts...

For those who are interested the order of thickness with TD5 head gaskets goes 2, 1 and then 3. Thinest to thickest. Completely logical :roll:

 

[Geobloke]

Right then, parts are arriving thick and fast. Well Turners are, LRDirect are being a little slower.

This weekend is going to be glorious so all hands to the pumps, make hey whilst he sun shines etc etc etc... Just figuring out how to get the head off and on again without a crane...

...must have Weetabix for breakfast

 

[Cliff4WD]

I lifted the head on mine with an improvised A frame. I took the side legs off of our garden swing, already an A made from 2 100mm² posts, and used it to support and pivot a hand pulley arrangement. Of course, two of you could just lift it with a length of something to support it on your shoulders with. If you're fit enough, it'll lift solo if you climb up on top and lift it up.

 

[Mike_Hammond]

Take the bonnet off, stand on the wings and man up

 

[mikeau]

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[Geobloke]

Well it is scorchio out there today. Great day to do this engine work. All went exceptionally well today. The most important thing is that the head bolts came out with a creak and some fingers crossed. The head is loose that’s the important thing. Just waiting on my neighbour for a little grunt work to get the head off then it’s all go tomorrow for the rebuild.

Have to say I miss having a garage to work in, but thanks to the Aluminet I was able to work most of the day without getting crispy fried

Some interesting things, wear on the timing tensioner, gasket sealer debris in the hydraulic lifters and most annoyingly the glow plug connectors have perished to destruction… I know Nakatenenga do a kit to replace them but at £100 that’s just a step too far for a piece of wire and a plug

So hear are some images of the operating theatre:

 

[Geobloke]

I lifted the head on mine with an improvised A frame. I took the side legs off of our garden swing, already an A made from 2 100mm² posts, and used it to support and pivot a hand pulley arrangement. Of course, two of you could just lift it with a length of something to support it on your shoulders with. If you're fit enough, it'll lift solo if you climb up on top and lift it up.

I did lie there the other night thinking along the same lines… if I were to move the roof rack forwards, attach a good chunky length of wood to it I could hoist the head off

It shouldn’t be too difficult. Head off. Clean up the block. Piston protrusion check. Build up head. Try not to herniate putting it back on… done by Sunday lunch

 

[Big Sandy]

Have you decided how you're getting the broken bolts out yet?

 

[Geobloke]

Have you decided how you're getting the broken bolts out yet?

So, Miffy is back up and running It has been an expensive month or so to say the least. After getting the head off I noticed that there were hairline cracks between the glow plugs, injector ports and the exhaust valve. After 220k miles, a blown head gasket and a skim it is a tired head. So I made the decision to purchase a new AMC head from Turners. Expensive, but so far it is all working perfectly.

What was interesting was where silicone sealer had made its way to... That stuff is just plain evil. Useful but evil... This is the build-up around the hydraulic lash adjuster. Just how much is gumming up the adjusters?! who knows... Replace those then...



The heat damage to the glow plug wiring was unexpected, but with a good quality of amalgamating tape the connections are working well. Will keep an eye on them.



The injectors looked superb after 220k miles, nothing external, no build up or bits missing.

Bagged. Tagged. Clean. Ready.



The block looked in good condition. A little surface rust in the coolant ports, nothing major. Once clean there was almost no wear waft or warp across the top of the block. a few minor scores in the third cylinder bore, but nothing major. I know that I will have to do a bottom end rebuild in the future, but not for a while and hopefully once I have a roof for Miffy to sit under whilst I take the engine apart...

So the AMC head... Superb quality and the upgrades to the injector port walls are immense. I built up the head with inlet and exhaust manifolds and then lifted it in to place. Goodness that was an awkward lift... A crane next time I think

Then through the head bolt tightening sequence which is harder than it reads, but thanks to the additional turning assistance of the Tirfor handle over the top of a breaker bar all the bolts were torqued down to specs. The entire time muttering, please don't shear, please don't shear...



Fit the rest of the ancillaries, fill the coolant, oil, filters, etc etc... Purge the fuel system... First turn of the key Gaud love ya Miffy... Can't keep the big girl down...



The new head has now done around 700 miles or so, mixture of driving and she pulls like a freight train. Smoke is normal, if anything better than before and oddly the exhaust does not smell as much as it used to at idle. Maybe those cracks where something... The MPG is bob on 26-28 over a couple of tanks. No leaks (touch wood). So far so good...

 

[Paul d]

Very tidy work you

So, Miffy is back up and running It has been an expensive month or so to say the least. After getting the head off I noticed that there were hairline cracks between the glow plugs, injector ports and the exhaust valve. After 220k miles, a blown head gasket and a skim it is a tired head. So I made the decision to purchase a new AMC head from Turners. Expensive, but so far it is all working perfectly.

What was interesting was where silicone sealer had made its way to... That stuff is just plain evil. Useful but evil... This is the build-up around the hydraulic lash adjuster. Just how much is gumming up the adjusters?! who knows... Replace those then...

View attachment 261992

The heat damage to the glow plug wiring was unexpected, but with a good quality of amalgamating tape the connections are working well. Will keep an eye on them.

View attachment 261994View attachment 261995

The injectors looked superb after 220k miles, nothing external, no build up or bits missing.

Bagged. Tagged. Clean. Ready.

View attachment 261993View attachment 261996View attachment 261997

The block looked in good condition. A little surface rust in the coolant ports, nothing major. Once clean there was almost no wear waft or warp across the top of the block. a few minor scores in the third cylinder bore, but nothing major. I know that I will have to do a bottom end rebuild in the future, but not for a while and hopefully once I have a roof for Miffy to sit under whilst I take the engine apart...

So the AMC head... Superb quality and the upgrades to the injector port walls are immense. I built up the head with inlet and exhaust manifolds and then lifted it in to place. Goodness that was an awkward lift... A crane next time I think

Then through the head bolt tightening sequence which is harder than it reads, but thanks to the additional turning assistance of the Tirfor handle over the top of a breaker bar all the bolts were torqued down to specs. The entire time muttering, please don't shear, please don't shear...

View attachment 261998View attachment 261999View attachment 262000View attachment 262001

Fit the rest of the ancillaries, fill the coolant, oil, filters, etc etc... Purge the fuel system... First turn of the key Gaud love ya Miffy... Can't keep the big girl down...

View attachment 262002View attachment 262003View attachment 262004

The new head has now done around 700 miles or so, mixture of driving and she pulls like a freight train. Smoke is normal, if anything better than before and oddly the exhaust does not smell as much as it used to at idle. Maybe those cracks where something... The MPG is bob on 26-28 over a couple of tanks. No leaks (touch wood). So far so good...

Very tidy work you have done I must say .

 

[Geobloke]

It never stops, Ha...!

So now that the power is back it is time to deal with the 10 year old bushes, they are not all bad but the trailing arm lower bushes are worn enough to produce noticeable four wheel steering. Time for a refresh. No problem as the current bushes are SuperPros and no presses or burning out will be needed, straight swap. At the same time the track rod ends will be changed (the track rod has to come off anyway) as they have become dry and worn. Why oh why don't these come with grease nipples on top as standard... why...!

So I have bought some new Delphi track rod ends and added grease nipples and dust caps to them, smooth greased steering here we come...

 

[Geobloke]

Very tidy work you

Very tidy work you have done I must say .

Thanks Paul. It was quite an enjoyable job all in all. Time consuming on your own, but definitely DIY-able...

 

[Big Sandy]

Good job well done @Geobloke

Always thought greaseable tre's were a good idea. Had them on the 2a, but last lot I bought were awful, putting grease in made the tops explode. I won't mention the manufacturer, but I bet you can guess.

Garage is next on the list, then?

 

[Geobloke]

Raised air intake tops have been on my mind recently, not for bad reasons or that I am thinking of changing the top on my RAI. It is because I have had the current top fitted to Miffy for the better part of two years and I am thoroughly impressed by it, it is not the most expensive (+/- £17), it isn't even branded, it just works.

So, I have always had Safari snorkels and their scoop top, later I fitted a PandP cages RAI with a scoop top. I liked the ability rotate the scoop facing forwards to force in as much air as the engine wants and rotating it out of the way whilst driving in dusty or wet, the latter of which happens a lot here in Wales. I know the scoop top is meant to filter out the rain in the air (out the back via a drain hole), but it never did a great job, perhaps the rain in Wales is an incomparable kind or more than likely it is just the quantity. The other irritation was the squadrons of insects are just funnelled or sucked in to the scoop and in to the air filter. I used to fit the bottom of a pair of tights in to the top of the RAI just underneath the scoop top, this did a fab job of pre-filtering the larger bugs and leaves out before they reach the filter. I believe there is a foam pre-filter these days that you can buy that does the same thing.



When I moved to the TD5 and especially once it had been tuned the air filter used to fill up so quickly with a scoop fitted, regardless of which direction it is facing. The filter would also get quite wet as well. Neither of which is ideal.



I took the plunge on a different style of RAI top, akin to the traditional Mantec mushroom top fitted to Camel Trophy and military vehicles, although made of plastic. I was tempted with a Donaldson style top (with the clear bowl), but at the time costly. The top I choose came from LR Challenge 4x4 I believe and the reason I went for it was the cyclonic intake, the rain cowl and the 3" diameter intake. Once fitted it looks good, it fits with the Safety Devices roll cage and PandP RAI. After two years it has faded a little in the sun, but not too much and a can of Plastikote would sort that out. It has taken some good knocks from branches and once made the seat of a local moggy... it seemed to approve of the tops diameter and vantage over the yard...



This last twelve months Miffy has been my daily driver and has covered thousands of miles in all weathers (mostly wet, it is Wales after all), through clouds of insects and during this dry summer a lot of dust. So much dust. I check my air filter fairly regularly and since fitting this RAI top the air box has been bone dry, dustless and has injested barely any large particles (leaves or insects). The air filter is miraculously clean. Usually I expect to see bits of flies, seeds and dirt stuck to the filter material. Nothing... or nothing that I can see without a magnifying glass.

The only difference is the RAI top, nothing else has been changed.

There is one more thing worth mentioning, performance... There is no noticeable difference in performance or MPG between the scoop and cyclonic RAI top. These days I care more about the reliability of the vehicle than the outright ram air powered speediness, or more than likely the lack of extra speediness.

Just goes to show that not every modification has to cost an arm and a leg

 

[Geobloke]

I have a problem with my TD5, it is an irritating problem to have. Keep getting the 16.2 High crank speed and noise crank signal faults when the engine doesn't fire up. Complete pain.

So fault diagnosis, this is where I am at

Electrical system

Relays - Under the drivers seat. Open the relay up and check the contacts, they corrode over time. Can stop fuel pump.
Earth points - Chassis and ECU. Clean up, grease and replace.
Sensor connector - Check for corrosion of the terminals
Sensor wiring - Continuity check the sensor wiring. This is known to get brittle and fracture. There are by-pass looms to replace this. Or you can make one yourself with twin core shielded wire, connector and shouldered in to the red ECU plug.
Sensor - Fairly robust units. Replace if unsure, but it is more likely the wiring.
Starter motor - This is known to "interfere" with the signal from the crank sensor at start-up, especially budget motors. Shielding the wiring may help. Wrap sensor wiring with tinfoil to test?!

Fuel system

Injector seals - Check for diesel smell in oil. Maintenance item. Replace.
Fuel regulator - Check for leaks
Fuel filter one way valve and filter - Known to fail and allow fuel to empty from engine.
Fuel filter housing - Known to corrode at the inlet/outlet connections and allow air in to the system.
Fuel pump - Is it working? Is it pumping at the required pressure. Can make all the right noises and not be pumping correctly.


I am at the stage of creating a bypass parallel loom back to the ECU. So, two core screened cable (approx. 1m), sensor connector (think it is an Econoseal connector?) and pins, plus pins for the red ECU plug.

Should be a nice evening project...