• Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums

    You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.

    Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now

1975 Series 3 2.25 diesel

K

KFER

In Third Gear
Im having issues with power loss and the engine dying.
the car will start and idle fine even run around the neighborhood for 15-20min but eventually gets to a point where it starts to sputter and die. When i hit the gas it seems to die even quicker. I stopped let it sit and then started it up and it idled just fine until i tried to drive it and made it about 100yards before the power loss again.
I believe its a fuel issue.
I checked the fuel tank for debris but seems clean.
I replaced the fuel injectors when i got the truck and noticed a white liquid wax on the top of the injectors taking them off.
Taking off the fuel filter i noticed a similar white wax like liquid at the base cap of the filter. replaced it with a new fuel filter and now having trouble with the truck turning over and starting.
I ordered a new Fuel pump and plan to replace it but looking for other insight.

thanks all!
 

Attachments

  • 21A0F2C1-FFEF-4CCD-A5A8-6F6AA0624560_1_201_a.jpeg
    21A0F2C1-FFEF-4CCD-A5A8-6F6AA0624560_1_201_a.jpeg
    74.2 KB · Views: 57
KFER said:
Im having issues with power loss and the engine dying.
the car will start and idle fine even run around the neighborhood for 15-20min but eventually gets to a point where it starts to sputter and die. When i hit the gas it seems to die even quicker. I stopped let it sit and then started it up and it idled just fine until i tried to drive it and made it about 100yards before the power loss again.
I believe its a fuel issue.
I checked the fuel tank for debris but seems clean.
I replaced the fuel injectors when i got the truck and noticed a white liquid wax on the top of the injectors taking them off.
Taking off the fuel filter i noticed a similar white wax like liquid at the base cap of the filter. replaced it with a new fuel filter and now having trouble with the truck turning over and starting.
I ordered a new Fuel pump and plan to replace it but looking for other insight.

thanks all!
Click to expand...
I would say the waxing you found is probably residue from having been run on veg oil, if so you will need to clean the tank out, flush the fuel lines and fuel pump and injector pump, once that is done and engine running put injector cleaner into fuel tank for 2 or 3 tank fills to clear injectors. Colin
 
Hi and welcome to the forum. Which engine do you have? The 2.25 diesel?

Ive had these symptoms before on other diesel cars and generally it's always been cured by a new fuel filter. Funnily enough, both cars that is had those problems on had been run on veg oil by POs.

Check all your connections and seals that you're not drawing air. Once you've got it starting reliably again, do as Colin suggests and run some good injector cleaner through and if there's no improvement maybe look at taking a look inside an injector to check for debris floating around inside. You'll need to get the crack pressure professionally reset though and if you have crap floating around in the injectors it's likely throughout the system. Hopefully a new filter and a good dose of cleaner should sort you out though.
 
You could get your self a tin of Liqui Moly diesel purge and run it through. If that doest shift it then nothing will short of a strip-down.

Liqui Moly Diesel Purge 1ltr L2520 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Buy Liqui Moly Diesel Purge 1ltr L2520 at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.
amzn.to

You run a feed from the can of LM to the pump, and take the return into the can, so you are bypassing the fuel tank and running the vehicle on neat LM.
There is a procedure online somewhere (Youtoob?) but I couldnt find it with a quick search.
 
They run on veg oil, for a period of time until the seals start to swell. A good diesel injection company can replace the seals with some that are veg oil resistant - at a cost. This kind of thing may become cost effective if they keep inceasing the amount of biodiesel in standard fule or the pric egoes through trhe roof

Peter
 
VROS2 said:
run on veg oil, for a period of time until the seals start to swell
Click to expand...
Or until it gums the vanes up in the pump, it jams and snaps the quill shaft.

Does the 'sediment' look kind of rubbery like? I wonder if you have a dose of diesel bug.... You can run a biocide through it too to get rid. Google diesel bug and see if it sounds familiar.
 
I had a problem simmilar to that you describe with Libby. Would run fine, then give symptoms of fuel starvation (loss of power, etc) after a while. Let the vehicle stand at idle for a few seconds and all was well. A replacement fuel filter cured it. Available from Rovers North in the US amongst others.

In addition to all of the above, if after cleaning and flushing the fuel lines, you are having difficulty starting once you replaced the fuel filter, you may have now gotten air into the system, possibly into the injector lines if you have been cranking the engine with air in the system. To rectify this, you will need to re-prime the fuel lines (after all the cleaning and flushing) with fresh diesel. There is a procedure given in the owners manual for the 2.25d, but basically you have to manually operate the fuel lift pump with the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter cracked open. Manual pumping should eventually result in a flow of fuel from the top of the filter housing. Keep pumping until no air bubbles result. (Place a drip tray under the filter to collect the spilled fuel). Once the fuel is running with no air bubbles, nip up the banjo bolt (I can just reach to do that whilst still operating the pump with one hand, but I have arms like a gibbon).

Having done that, you probably need to bleed and prime the distributor pump itself. There are two bleed nuts on the side of the pump casing that have to be loosened in turn whilst again manually operating the fuel lift pump. Again, the manual or green bible will show you the location of these bleed nuts. Once the pump is bled and primed, you may /will probably need to bleed the fuel lines to the injectors. Some have reported success just cranking the vehicle, but it depends upon how much air is in the lines. Air is compressible, unlike liquids. So if there is a lot of air in the hard metal fuel lines, the fuel pressure delivered by the distributor pump may not be sufficient to exceed the crack pressure of the injector and no fuel will be admitted. I usually slacken off the fuel line unions at the injectors, and then crank the engine a few times until fuel can be seen coming from the union. This should expel most of the air and allow the fuel pressure delivered to exceed the crack pressure, thus allowing the injector to function. Make sure that no one is standing near the engine whilst doing this so that no one is accidentally subjected to high pressure diesel sprays. After doing this, nip up the injector fuel line unions and try starting. You may find that one cylinder starts before another and the start may be a bit smokey for a few seconds.

Let us know how you get on.

PM
 
imortim1 said:
Make sure that no one is standing near the engine whilst doing this so that no one is accidentally subjected to high pressure diesel sprays
Click to expand...
Valid point...even more so if you're testing injector spray patterns in the engine bay. Spray out of the injector can be lethal.

If you do undo an injector union, be very careful not to overtighten them when you do them up, they are a formed cone end, and will snap behind the union. No amount of tightening will stop that leak. New injector pipe time.
 
Thanks everyone! I didnt bleed or prime after replacing injectors or fuel filter so I’ll try that and add a fuel cleaner
 
Basically the wax / residue will block the fuel filter, leading to fuel starvation.

Just out of interest, is this temperature dependent. I see that you are in Denver. What is the temperature there at the moment? (We had snow here in MD this morning) I have had problems with diesel waxing in low temperatures and if you already have restricted fuel flow due to waxing residue issues, waxing of the diesel itself won't help.
 
Denver is on the front range of the Rockies at an altitude of 5300 ft, so one mile up. It can be warm in the summer, but bloody cold in winter!
 
Weather has been in the 60s so nothing cold yet and no snow
I read it needs to be single digits to cause waxing from cold
 
Reading your first post again, I'm thinking you have air in the system still, as @imortim1 says. Bleeding it out is really your first port of call.

Crack open the top fitting on the filter (that the return pipe goes to) and then pump the lever on the fuel pump. If you feel you don't get enough pumping action, turn the engine over a bit, takes the pump arm off the crank and you get more pump at the lever. Pump until no bubbles come out of the filter.

Then, on the distributor pump facing toward the engine and slightly forward, about halfway up the pump, you will see two 10mm black nuts sticking out, one on the pump body and one on the control body (the boxy bit with the levers). Slightly undo the one on the pump body, pump the lever until air free fuel comes out, tighten. Repeat with the one on the control body.

Attempt to start. It should go.... If not, undo the union on injector no 1, just loosen it, don't remove it. Crank the engine over... It will purge the air (and spit out a bit of derv) and will probably start on 3 cylinders. Tighten up the union, but be careful not to over tighten, with the engine running.

Jobs a good-un.
 
Back
Top Bottom