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My D3 Project

give the timing belts ago yourself they are not that bad to do if you take your time.

I had thought about it but never done a timing belt on one of these engines

the front slam panel comes off but the things that ultimately prevents me is 1) my back and 2) removal of the starter motor due to the flywheel requiring a locking pin
funny enough looked back and since 2017 for when I last had the timing belts, front and rear , aux belt, upgraded oil pump, water pump , tensioners I’ve only covered 2,000 miles , but of course don’t wish to risk leaving it but at least it gives me to the end of 2024 to get it done

even if I could just get the front belt changed seeing the rear one is only for the HPFP , had all the tensioners done but would prefer to get them done as a precaution

then there’s the rear lower wishbones , had the mot advisory , ref

Nearside Rear Lower Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i)) ,
Offside Rear Lower Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i)) ,

wouldnt mess around with the old ones but buy the complete arms with new bushings already fitted , along with new fitting kits, + both tie bars + drop links, I did do the drop links in 2017 but seeing there only £40 a pair would renew them as a complete job so to speak , then get the 4 x wheel alignment done

last job will then be to renew my under seal, using dinitrol again, wondering as well what dinitrol product will be best to use over my existing

have 4 x axle stands so then thinking if I jack it up, remove all the wheels , then all inner plastic wheel arch liners, sill trims etc , then if it would suffice to use what ive already got

ie,

snow foam gun and 5 x litres of snow foam cleaning liquid
hose for inside the chassis and underside
karcher k lance
nilfisk steam cleaner

blast everything off and then allow to dry

think I’ve also got a vario nozzle but concerned if it might be too much if it touches wiring / connectors

do a full service , along with dropping the ATF change as don’t like gearbox flushing

lastly have a nice set of 19” rims, which I’ll fit maybe in 2025 as they need a new set of tyres

it will then be just basic servicing seeing I’ve already rebuilt most of the suspension , brakes etc and should then have a really nice D3

blimey I’m waffling again, lol
 
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By the time you have finished you will have one of the best D3's going. I recently saw the underside of a D3 on my local garage's lift, with the spare wheel off the car. What amazed me was how much corrosion had happened to the chassis just in front of where the spare wheel sits. It was really bad. Another place where rust seems to get a hold is inside the tubes where the rear halfshafts connect to the rear diff.
We were working on the back end of my D4 yesterday, which involved removing the rear arch trim and wheel arch liner. What I noted was how much care is required so as not to damage the plastic parts and clips as the get very brittle with age. I think I will be investing in a set of replacement fittings.
 
By the time you have finished you will have one of the best D3's going. I recently saw the underside of a D3 on my local garage's lift, with the spare wheel off the car. What amazed me was how much corrosion had happened to the chassis just in front of where the spare wheel sits. It was really bad. Another place where rust seems to get a hold is inside the tubes where the rear halfshafts connect to the rear diff.
We were working on the back end of my D4 yesterday, which involved removing the rear arch trim and wheel arch liner. What I noted was how much care is required so as not to damage the plastic parts and clips as the get very brittle with age. I think I will be investing in a set of replacement fittings.

bless u and very kind of u to say, must confess have put a lot of hours into bringing it up to a decent landy so that fingers crossed will last me a good few more years

none of the dinitrol has peeled off , just very dull and can see small spots of surface rust so don’t want it to progress

indeed ref rust areas , have seen sills rotting and seems that happens when side step ate fitted, behind the rear wheel arch liner

these were a few pics I took last time I done it

hopefully if I just snow foam underneath , then blast inside and outside or the chassi that will be ok for me to apply another few coats

think The best way will be to jack it up, remove all the wheels and put all four corners on axle stands, at least then I’ll be able to remove all the wheel arch liners, sill covers etc

my neighbour will more than likely jack it up for me as I bought a sgs 3 x ton jack which arnt very light, lol

plus think it would be an ideal time to get the rear bumper off , seeing there surface rust around the towing sockets

also seen that with regards to where the spare wheel sits , removed mine as need to fit the wheel winch as I got the improved model that has the coller covering the wire

thks again

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forgot to add , also got some large packets of wheel arch clips etc as Indeed with them becoming brittle

plus see theres a rubber like trim that goes on the rear wheel arch liner and body , cheaper using the ones from a FL2
 
Bugger, went out in the D3 yesterday and noticed there’s air in the brakes , dam it as I’ll have to mess around with it now

just ordered a new brake pressure kit as fed up messing with the vacuum ones , fingers crossed there’s enough room to get onto the bleeders without taking the wheels off

won’t bother calling the garage that done the brakes for me as I’ll do them myself to ensure there spot on

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Amazing work going on in here. People are so afraid of the D3s and 4s but this thread does show it is possible to DIY maintain them. Well done :thumbsup: Enjoyed reading this thread.

many thks and very kind of u to say , I just take any fault bit by bit thats all , think having a multimeter and decent diagnostics is a must with these vehicles otherwise ur be chasing ur tail down a rabbit hole

must confess miffed about my brakes having air in them, local garages want around £120-150 plus vat to bleed them

so annoying with my back which really does limit me at times , alas its getting the trolly jack out and wheels off that’s just the problem

i think i Had the brake fluid replaced around 18 x months ago, did get a new tin of the class 6 fluid which the D3 needs , think it may be best to replace it again seeing I’ve now got that pressure bleeding kit

thks again
 
So been going through some bolts for my 9” spot lights ,wishing them to be of a security type ranging from a 2 x pin flat head , pinned Torx heads or the last one, with a twisted Torx type of head that also comes with a special socket

also see these lights have the faculty to wire up the DRL’s

plse let me know what u think of them plse and if you’ve seen them before , thks they will ultimately be going onto my nudge bar

Special security bolts are stainless steel and supposed to be hardened ??
 

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Plus looking at these spots closer I think this fitting is to prevent condensation as it’s got a small hole in the middle,

what do u think plse as can’t think of anything else
 

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Here u go, I drilled the holes out on the upper fan cowl , then fitted some bolts from underneath , using a hot glue gun to secure the bolts, this , placed a nut then washer then another nut to secure the upper air inlet tube , hope that makes sense

at the same time fitted some new engine cover insulation seeing the old stuff was just falling apart

hope that helps
 

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Also found a better description of the spots, hopefully these will be better than a LED light bar , they will be fitted onto my A bar which I’ve also got to fit , was also very lucky in being able to purchase a complete genuine spot light wiring loom

picture of one placed on the nudge bar, switch placement wise I got a second hand front cabin light that has the sunroof switch fitted, not got a sunroof , so will remove that switch and replace it with a spot light master switch

12/24V 55W LED Driving Light with a Spot/Flood Dual Beam for Wide View and Long Distance

Long beam distance (150m)
Dual side lights for extra wide beam
15 long life LEDs
Can be used on either 12V or 24V vehicles
IP67 – dustproof and waterproof
Corrosion free die cast aluminium heavy duty housing and stainless steel fixings
Robust polycarbonate lens – E marked
Beam angle: Spot 30° / Flood 60°
EMC R10
ECE R112
Cool white colour output of 6000K (6500 lumens)
3 years warranty
 

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