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On the bench.

Heat or shock is probably the way to go. You could try tapping the joints with a small hammer to get the plus gas to penetrate. I had success with that taking heater plugs out of an aluminium head. I was getting small spurts of rusty plus gas as I was doing it, so it was breaking the bond.
 
I've managed to find one source of information here, which states:

"When it absolutely refuses to budge then the trusty welding torch has to be the measure of the day. Don't rely on your DIY blow torch, these things laugh in the face of such instruments..."

Then there is a short video of a guy giving it a heavy dose of oxy-acetylene, so I reckon a good soaking with the MAPP gas isn't as risky as I'd have first thought.
 
Cliff4WD said:
I'd imagine that the fittings originally went in with a liberal coating of sealing compound on the threads, this will most likely be rock hard by now. Apply heat to soften and hopefully break any rust bonding.
Click to expand...
A radiator if that old would have used red lead/or boss white and hemp as a seal, bit of heat from a Mapp gun should melt the read lead etc. Colin
 
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How did you spend valentine's day Steve? I'll give you a clue, it's rock hard and measured in inches, 32 of 'em.

I tried the medium size breaker bar on this, and it took the bung out with no real force required. After that I ground the nuts off, fortunately they turned out to be brass as I was worried about the puddle of Plusgas on the lino going up (not worried enough to mop it up first). Then the 32" Stillsons to remove the spigots and a 33mm socket on the biggest breaker bar to remove the reducers.

Quite anticlimactic really, but I'm happy with that. I just need the correct reducers now, I think I require 1" BSP to ½" BSP but I'll confirm in the light of day.
 
Lad delivered me one of his Honda TRX250 quad bikes on Monday night, starting problems - runs until you let go of the starting key so likely an ignition module problem. Never had cause to work on pulse or charge coils up to now but I do have the Honda manual and it says I need to measure peak output voltage on the various coils.

Peak voltage adapter for connecting multimeter is silly money considering it only needs 4 basic electrical components and a few other bits, Honda one even more 4x extortionate money. Found a circuit on Youtube last night. Sods law in November I threw out loads of electrical components (not used in 30 years, not likely to do any circuit building..........). Managed to raid the things laying in the garage and shed 'in case they might be useful' and found all the components I needed.

So, bench today has been to build adapter. All done will test on the mains tomorrow - I have an afternoon hospital appointment anyway :rolleyes: Connect croc clips to AC coil and multimeter on DC volts to the other terminals, turn engine over and see what gives. Total cost NIL, yea !

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The remains of an IC base are not relevant (used a once used piece of veroboard that had a previous life on the shooting range as a stop plate timer control). The box had 5 LEDs in the top holes in its past life as a Water Imp. Switch enables me to switch in or out 330ohms of damping resistor depending on whether I need to test charging or pulse coils. It will work for the club outboard engines and our tractor mowers if needed so worth the effort. Now I can get on and try and sort the quad bike which is one of two he uses in the woods when logging.
 
Not so much on the bench as on the garage floor...

comp1.jpg

comp2.jpg


The air tank and cover are just behind the motor assembly.
I think it's 1930s ish as it's a German made one, not the US type that seem much more common when I tried a Google for information.
Mounting rubbers have turned to mush and the flexible airline is split/cut, but otherwise seems complete and very tidy!
Still on the 15amp round pin plug and anchient flex cable (which is also split/knackered).
Not sure what to do with it really...I want to fix it/check it, but I know I have too many other projects.
 
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Right, chainsaw on the bench today, what might be a repair, might just be an autopsy. Fault reported: tip came off the sparkplug and spent some time inside the engine at 10,000 RPM.



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Piston crown confirms this.



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Piston is scored badly, ring jammed in and peened there. I'd say that's causing a loss of compression. Oddly the cylinder looks and feels pristine?



I've still not found the missing electrode but it's been to a shop already so perhaps they removed it. A new aftermarket piston can be had for a score off eBay so I'll probably take a punt on that, no point ordering things over the weekend so I'll sort it out on the PC on Monday.
 
On the bench today was a VAX vacuum cleaner that the cable was chewed, but otherwise ok.
New 2 core cable bought with fitted plug, but although could get into the cables/clamp area, I couldn't find how to take the top off to get to the switch area. Ended up prising the top moulding up but wasn't budging. I thought there may be a clip near the on switch, so took a chance and prised off the the top of the switch - and there was the screw holding the top on, hiding under the switch!
Bit weird that the live was to a 5mm spade connector but the negative was twisted into an insulated crimp connector, but replaced both and now works ok as per the original design spec.
No photo unless you want a close up of twisted wires. :p
 
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Today I helped my father-in-law fit a 50kg aircon unit to his caravan. On the bench? Not quite but I'm claiming poetic licence.


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Strapped it to a ladder.


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Hoisted it.


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Dragged it up.


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Fitted.


Went ok in the end but it took a bit of head scratching to come up with a plan that didn't involve us dropping it or falling off a ladder. Got to say I wasn't sure the roof was up to it but once I was up there it was completely solid, impressive TBH. An enjoyable morning hanging out with him anyway.
 
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