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S11A Airportable

The green to the motor feeds the slow speed (only speed...) via the brown/green via the park switch through the main switch.

It honestly makes more sense physically and it's a clever little system when it all works!

If it won't work at all...then you're investigating why by applying a voltage to where the red/green attaches and seeing what fizzes...with the main plug removed of course.

Did you give the commutator a good clean whilst it was apart? Made sure the crank wheel was very free in it's bushing? There are a million ways these complicated but simple motors can cock up...but they're very servicable and still very well supported with (decent enough) new parts.
Same goes for the wheel boxes and rack/pinion stuff. A little tight spot goes a long way. Oh er missus.
 
Given that I stripped and cleaned it a couple of years ago I can't remember exactly what I did but have recollections of soaking it in brake cleaner to remove all the accumulated clag.
Tomorrow day I'll get into it properly.
 
Curiouser and curiouser.
Removed motor today, sat it on the bench and applied power. apart from there being quite a kick when it started, no other response, no smoke, no fizzes, no crackles.
Next thing to look at is the degree of "stiction" in the wiper drive mechanism. I know the main length of tube had some fairly significant bends/kinks in it when I first got it, but spent quite some time turning them into very gentle curves and get the kinks out of it
 
It will be a tight spot somewhere.
I've had a few test fine on a bench but blow fuses in a vehicle.

When I test them now I let them run for a bit and hold the wires, if they start to heat up I know I cocked something up inside, else it's a rack issue, but you can test that by putting the rack into the guide tubes and past the wiper pinions and doing the movement yourself. With no blades or arms on, they should be fairly easy to move through a rotation.
 
Found it, a kink in the tube near the furthest wiper wheel box. I am going to see if I have a suitable rod I can tap in there to remove it
The next problem is the ovality of the new, Bearmach, drums. Quite significant, enough for any given wheel to be quite free in some positions and brought to a tight standstill at others. Wonder if there are any companies out there that still offer a drum skimming service?
 
Neil said:
Found it, a kink in the tube near the furthest wiper wheel box. I am going to see if I have a suitable rod I can tap in there to remove it
The next problem is the ovality of the new, Bearmach, drums. Quite significant, enough for any given wheel to be quite free in some positions and brought to a tight standstill at others. Wonder if there are any companies out there that still offer a drum skimming service?
Click to expand...
I've never had much luck getting drums recut to any degree of satisfaction. I find it's hit and miss. I see L.O.F. offers what they claim are perfectly concentric new drums for a reasonable price. I haven't tried them but the claim is tempting...
 
SeriesG said:
I've never had much luck getting drums recut to any degree of satisfaction. I find it's hit and miss. I see L.O.F. offers what they claim are perfectly concentric new drums for a reasonable price. I haven't tried them but the claim is tempting...
Click to expand...
We have been looking at the same supplier.
I am curious about how they have them to fit series 1, 2 & 3 bearing in mind the different diameter wheel studs used within the models listed
"These drums will fit ALL Series 10″ applications due to design!"
 
As far as I know they just have the larger holes and then you hope that the sudden shock load doesn't shear off the smaller studs under braking on the earlier models I guess.

Sounds great.
 
Ahh excellent. So you're now relying on the shear strength of 3 3/8 threads.
Or to put it another way, you're trying to stop a vehicle weighing what a Series does, with the net strength of an Mini with 1 of it's studs snapped on every wheel.

Sounds great. :p
 
Neil said:
We have been looking at the same supplier.
I am curious about how they have them to fit series 1, 2 & 3 bearing in mind the different diameter wheel studs used within the models listed
"These drums will fit ALL Series 10″ applications due to design!"
Click to expand...
I imagined they might have drilled more than one set of holes in the drum face..?
 
Right, LOF drums.
Beautifully machined over the entire surface of the drum internal and external. 3 holes for the retaining screws, very deep countersunk pockets for said screws. NO ovality whatsoever when fitted. strangely no drain holes in them either. Yes they are machined to accommodate the larger, later studs, yes there is only one set of holes.
 
Hopefully I have found the final repair which needs doing.
With non genuine drums using only 1 securing screw it didn't really matter that one of the holes for the securing screws still had the remains of a sheared screw in it.
TBH I'm not entirely sure I ever noticed it previously. I had to replace 2 of the original hubs because the previous bonehead owner had tried replacing screw in studs with pull in studs and buggered them as a result.
It is not immediately apparent that there is the remnant of a screw in there because it has been drilled through. I increased the size of the hole and have just ordered a set of Whitworth taps to clean it up. I could helicoil it if the thread cannot be recovered, but that might exercise my imagination about possible failure scenarios.
Fortunately if everything goes pear shaped Blanchard still have various options available, ranging from New Genuine, through military reconditioned to used
 
Today took it out for another short test drive. In order to get it out of the garage i have to remove the hood sticks (not for much longer though)
Test drive revealed weird steering (still) and that the brakes need bleeding but that is pretty much it.
Put it back in the garage and refitted the hood sticks which is when it bit me, took a lump out of my palm
blood sacrifice.
 

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