robwlondon
Posting Guru
With the T box in neutral there's no resistance on the output so my thinking is the clutch drag would have no effect. Its a bit like lifting the wheels off the ground.
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Stuck in gear
- Thread starter Fulltimedad
- Start date
Fultimedad:
Have you checked the push rod length (if it's a series 3)?
I've had one wear down at the thin end near the slave cylinder.
It only takes a little lost movement to totally disable the clutch!
A good one should be 85.25mm in total.
You could try (carefully) putting a small nut or spacer between the slave and the rod to check?
576751 - Push Rod for Clutch Slave Cylinder 4 Cyl
576751, push rod for clutch slave cylinder 4 cyl for Series 2, Series 3, Land Rover Parts and Range Rover Parts
www.johncraddockltd.co.uk
Fultimedad:
Have you checked the push rod length (if it's a series 3)?
I've had one wear down at the thin end near the slave cylinder.
It only takes a little lost movement to totally disable the clutch!
A good one should be 85.25mm in total.
576751 - Push Rod for Clutch Slave Cylinder 4 Cyl
576751, push rod for clutch slave cylinder 4 cyl for Series 2, Series 3, Land Rover Parts and Range Rover Parts
www.johncraddockltd.co.uk
Thanks Mr Stein . I haven’t checked the pushrod length - there’s always something you wish you’d done after fitting something . Does the pushrod just pull out or screw out - I think I’ve read they can be awkward to get back inFultimedad:
Have you checked the push rod length (if it's a series 3)?
I've had one wear down at the thin end near the slave cylinder.
It only takes a little lost movement to totally disable the clutch!
A good one should be 85.25mm in total.
576751 - Push Rod for Clutch Slave Cylinder 4 Cyl
576751, push rod for clutch slave cylinder 4 cyl for Series 2, Series 3, Land Rover Parts and Range Rover Parts
Does it go in reverse okay did you say? I was wondering if the adjustment on the reverse was slightly out, that would throw the rest out of line.
Could be clutch, maybe the splines on the pressure plate worn enough to throw it out of balance, wouldnt release as much.
May well be worth simply dropping the oil and seeing what drops out!
Push rod.....yeah, bastard to replace with engine/gearbox in situ. I never tried to replace with it all together, always had everything apart when replacing them bits. Its held in with a funky white plastic clip thingubdy. (Technical term)
Could be clutch, maybe the splines on the pressure plate worn enough to throw it out of balance, wouldnt release as much.
May well be worth simply dropping the oil and seeing what drops out!
Push rod.....yeah, bastard to replace with engine/gearbox in situ. I never tried to replace with it all together, always had everything apart when replacing them bits. Its held in with a funky white plastic clip thingubdy. (Technical term)
Thanks big sandy . Yes goes into reverse ok . Something is “jamming” when it’s in a gear forward or reverse and if I raise the clutch to biting point it clinks then it’s free again . A frustrating fault but made all the easier by the really helpful support on the forum
The plastic clip thingummy is only there to hold the pushrod in place until the pressure of the slave cylinder keeps it in position. I have changed one whilst everything was still fitted to the vehicle. It took me DAYS and had me in tears of rage and frustration, plus using some words I didn't even know existed
The front of the rod is accessed by removing the slave cylinder (this is the wear point).
The back end has a ball secured to the release fork with a spring clip.
It's possible to manipulate the pushrod from the spring clip via the slave servo mounting hole.
I've done it using some oddly bent tools and a lot of swearing.
They can sometimes bend too.
The simple way to check is to put a temporary spacer between the rod and the slave cylinder, like an M6 nut, and see i9f the clutch works.
@Fulltimedad, the more I hear about this the more I'm thinking this is gonna end up with having the gearbox out. I really hope it is not the case but it's not sounding good.
Something is moving out of place, either broken or excessively worn.
Something is moving out of place, either broken or excessively worn.
erubus
Land Rover Buddha
The reason I suggested lifting the top cover off the t-box and checking if the mainshaft gear was rotating with the gearbox in gear, clutch pedal down and t-box in neutral was specifically to rule out clutch drag.
If the clutch wasn't fully releasing, the mainshaft gear would still be spinning with the t-box in neutral precisely because there is no resistance on the output and drive on the input.
erubus
Land Rover Buddha
Unfortunately I tend to agree. @Fulltimedad I can't remember, did you have the top cover off the gearbox?
If you're able to get the top cover off fairly easily, it would be worth taking the selectors out and giving everything a good shoogle and seeing if there is anything obvious. There shouldn't be any movement side to side or up and down. Also there shouldn't be any movement back and forth on the shaft as a whole. The synchros should only move back and forward with no rocking, although the design of the 3rd/4th synchro will allow a little rocking without the selector on.
One last easy test to check the mainshaft nut without taking off the OD would be to gently lever the gear from between the gearbox casing and the gear and also from the other side. There shouldn't be any fore and aft movement. You could do that from the rectangle plate at the top of the t-box that you had off before, engine off and gearbox in neutral. Selecting a gear might make it move as well if the nut is loose.
Thanks erubus you (and others ) have been a real support with this
I didn’t bite the bullet with the selector cover as an added complication was the overdrive flat bar from the lever to under the seat box to the overdrive that runs right up against the cover but I think your right I need to get it off and have a look - I’ll post some pics of what I find for any advice . Yes I can take that plate off again easily and will check for movement which could be a deciding factor .
@Fulltimedad You could try pulling away in 3rd as I think @erubus suggested but use low box so it pulls away easily, then you will know if it changes between 3rd and 4th OK. It's definitely a problem with the box though, not the clutch. David
Thanks guitar mick . Yes I’m forlornly coming to that conclusion too. I’m back to my real job full time from tomorrow but when I get some time I’m going to take selector cover off and take some picture and have a look for anything obvious and use erubus’s method of a quick check for fore and aft movement through transfer case top plate then assess where I am .
Doing dinosaur games and baking chocolate cookies is far easier than Land Rover transmissions
Thank David . Yes I should have come back on that one - apologies . Getting stuck in third gear was the start of this - we had to drive home in third high / low and overdrive . I’ve tried it again and it jams in third too. I haven’t tried all gears in low range though but am guessing that would make a difference ?
I doubt being in low range would make any difference to gear selection, I was just suggesting it so you could pull away easily in 3rd. Sounds like you have a problem with the box unfortunately
. David
erubus
Land Rover Buddha
It might reduce torque reactions enough to let you change gear (like running with t-box in neutral) but probably not and not much use driving around in low box anyway haha
Big Sandy suggested I start a thread about my transmission problems and that he may be able to place the replies so far into this new thread so here it is.
Story so far is replaced clutch master cylinder 4 weeks ago as it was leaking . 2 weeks later I ended up driving home stuck in third gear . If I stopped with engine on and clutch pressed down then raised the clutch to biting point it would clonk and then come out of gear and let me select a gear but then jam again. I replaced clutch slave cylinder as thought would be clutch related but no difference .
Story so far is replaced clutch master cylinder 4 weeks ago as it was leaking . 2 weeks later I ended up driving home stuck in third gear . If I stopped with engine on and clutch pressed down then raised the clutch to biting point it would clonk and then come out of gear and let me select a gear but then jam again. I replaced clutch slave cylinder as thought would be clutch related but no difference .
@Fulltimedad , As you'll see, I edited your first post to explain why everything is now here. Which is why the above posts is duplicated in the first post. (later date than all the others you see) There may be the odd post left in the other thread, but I think I got it all...
Hopefully it will make it easier to keep on top of what info you have already, and any more all in one place.
Hope your having a better day with it today.
Hopefully it will make it easier to keep on top of what info you have already, and any more all in one place.
Hope your having a better day with it today.
If you select 4th gear with engine off press clutch then turn starter does the vehicle try to go forward if not release clutch does it the stall or try to go forward.