Stumpy Doofleer
Extreme Landy Fan
I have a work light with a switch on the back of it, would it be OK to wire this directly to the aux battery with a 10amp inline fuse?
I have a work light with a switch on the back of it, would it be OK to wire this directly to the aux battery with a 10amp inline fuse?
I have a switch on my mud dash for the work light, so I might use that, but do I need a relay with the Carling switch. It won't be wired to come on when reversing, but want it wired into my aux battery as I am off camping at the end of the month, and want some light for BBQ'ing, so might just do the direct route for now, and wire it into my switch on the dash later on, when I have more time.7.5 amp should be fine for a single 55w bulb. Are you switching the lamp remotely from the cab, externally from the lamp or coupling it into the reverse light circuit - or a combination?
You lost me at "What", sounds far to complicated for what I need, really just want a light that works off the aux battery for now, and eventually to be wired up to the switch on the dash, as this is how it was wired before the electrics were replaced, but it took the feed from the cig lighter, rather than off the aux battery, as I want to keep everything seperate from now on, too much hasstle tracing faults when you start to add thing to the original wiring loom.What you could do is take a feed from your reversing light, one from your dashboard switch and run them to a two way switch, take a third wire from that switch to 'trigger' the relay (which gets its power from the second battery) and you have a selectable 'Auto - Manual' work/reverse light.
Works for me .
I'm interested in your diagrams. I've just bought my genuine Land Rover work light (with no instructions) and I wanted to switch it on/off manually, or with the reverse lights. I plan to get another OEM switch and modify it like yours. If you could keep the diagrams relatively simple, it would be appreciated, because I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to electrical diagrams.
Err, I assume you are talking about the toggle switches on Series motors here ? 90/110/Defender switches don't have such a spare contact, just three wires with a moulded on harness connector. The usual cause for having no side/tail lights on is a dicky switch (mine can be that way sometimes).I wired its feed to the vehicle's light switch, using the spare terminal on the main switch that is live only when side lights are selected, and off when the external lights are off or head lights are on (I never drive with just side lights - all or nothing). Defenders should have a similar spare position - that's why you see some Defenders with the side lights off when the head lights are on; they've been connected incorrectly to that terminal.