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ZF 5HP24 teardown

ok Bemble.
I see on the parts catalogue ZF , there are 8 valves but I no see the correct place.
I think the valve burn 27050 go to the next place free ( ????? ).
have you a copy of page manual repair ?
 
Sorry, I just noticed in your photograph the area you've marked out with question marks, which I assume is the 9th location that you were referring to? This circuit forms part of the hydraulic path between the E-brake clutch valve (KV-E) and the E-brake holding (or retaining) valve (HV-E) which are both housed in the upper valve block.

I've checked on the hydraulic circuit diagram and there is definitely no orifice valve in this position.

Just to reconfirm, therefore, the locations & sizes (colours) of all the orifice valves in your photograph are 100% correct.
 
ok Bemble. because when I have open the gearbox the old gasket move the valves. after I m not sur to place of valve!!
where you buy your parts to gearbox in Uk, please? in france the input shaft is difficult to find and the gasket set is very expansive.
 
There's a list of 'official' ZF spare part distributors here :

http://www.zf.com/eu/content/en/great_britain/corporate_uk/products_services_uk/service_overview_uk/service_network_uk/service_cars_uk/service_cars_uk.html

I usually buy my parts from JPAT. The overhaul kit 1058 298 022 costs around £120 and the input shaft around £180. You'll be able to fit the stiffened input shaft/A-clutch drum 1058 270 036 which replaced the earlier '035' part in November 2000. The additional radial swages which help stiffen the part will prevent any further failure of the drum.
 

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  • Later A Drum.jpg
    Later A Drum.jpg
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thank you for your web site.
Ihave find the input shaft in ZF france, but I have must wait very longtimes. the old part number is 1058 270 036, yes. and I have receveid recently one input shaft 1058 270 040 01 for £205.
I have buy other parts:gasket set 1058 298 022 and piston 0501 212 967: 87.00 €+19.43€+ shipping 10 €. in
Automatic Choice Europe B.V
de Schutterij 19
3905 PJ VEENENDAAL


bemble, you are a rebuilt gearbox specialist ?
 
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That's interesting - I thought that the '040' input shaft was only for the Audi 4WD version (5HP24A).

Anyway, no I'm not a rebuilt gearbox specialist - I just do them for fun.
 
Top marks to you Bemble.
awsome posts
however, it is all double dutch to me but still an intresting read.
I dont even know what gearbox is in my 2002, 3.0 derv vogue.
It was replaced just before I bought the car.
Is ther a way of tracing when it may have been replaced?
I aint got any records of it.

I just canny get away with hoe clean the insides of your 'old' box is.

awsome.

bill

ps.......... I just hope that 'IF' I ever get a problem I can find oot where ye live :)
 
Bill,

Your TD6 is fitted with the GM 5L40-E transmission rather than the ZF 5HP24 unit being discussed here.

Unfortunately the 5L40-E (in the Range Rover, at least) has a poor reputation for reliability at higher mileages (80-100,000 miles).

What mileage have you covered?
 
Hi,
Its showing 129k having covered some 4k in last 4 months of my ownership.
The gearbox is a new one or a refurbished one.
I have no idea when it was fitted but wisnae too long back as it looks straight oot the box.
someone has advised to change oil and filters at 30k.
what oil is used in mine?
cheers
 
Hi, having read your postI decided to have ago at my L322 transmission fault. The fault is that when you select Drive you have to wait a couple of seconds before you apply any power otherwise the engine revs and the transmission engages with a hard thump, this also happens in reverse. Once I have given it the couple of seconds needed to engage the drive there doesn't appear to be any other problems except when you're stopped with the brake on but still in drive for a few seconds you again have to wait before applying power. There doesn't seem to be any slipping under normal driving.
So, I have removed and stripped the transmission hoping to find this O-ring broken, but it all appears to be fine and I haven't noticed any other signs of wear.

Any clues would be appreciated.
 
The O-ring problem comes about through the failure of one of the axial thrust bearings and the symptoms are that the TRANS FAILSAFE PROG is displayed and the transmission bangs into 5th gear as the controller tries to engage limp-home mode but can't achieve 4th gear because of the resulting A-clutch leakage.

Your symptoms sound completely different.

Did you ever get the TRANS FAILSAFE PROG message?
 
Thanks for responding so quick. No I never got the fail safe prog, and did notice that most of the post about the o-ring seem to only affect forward gear unlike mine which is both drive and reverse.
 
Hi Bemble, any other advice you might have would be great. The oil I drained out was quite burnt, however the clutch plates all look ok.
 
I'm sure you appreciate that it's best to get the DTCs read before you remove the transmission as, if you haven't stripped one before, you have no reference as to what looks right and what doesn't other than obvious things like burnt clutch plates.

When you engage 'D' the A-clutch is applied. When you engage 'R' both the C-clutch & F-brake are applied. As you say, the fact that it had the same symptoms for both 'D' & 'R', yet no common clutches are used for each, indicates that it isn't a specific clutch problem. It sounds as though there was a flow problem (either from the pump or due to leakage). Was the engagement delay worse from cold or better than when fully warm?
 
Certainly sounds like leakage (gets worse as fluid viscosity reduces with temperature).

Might be worth first checking the pump flow regulator valve in the intermediate case (just unscrew the 19mm A/F spring retaining bolt)

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii29/GearShift2008/PumpFlowRegulatingValveRetentionBolt.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii29/GearShift2008/PumpFlowRegulatingValve-1.jpg


If you just want to check that the parts all look okay and then measure the spring free length and let me know what it is?
 
This is an amazing post. i have a 2006 supercharged and you got me thinking now. it has 65,000 miles on the clock. is the filter a similar type and do you know the recommended service interval for this.
 
You have the 6-speed transmission (ZF 6HP26) where the filter is actually part of the sump pan (you replace the whole thing – which is made of plastic)

The 6HP26 transmission uses fluid to ZF's Lifeguardfluid 6 specification – which is basically Shell ATF M1375.4

As with the 5-speed unit, ZF recommend a fluid and filter change only after 10 years or 100,000 miles unless the vehicle has been subjected to 'severe operating conditions' (e.g. frequent towing or high speed driving) where the fluid may have reached high operating temperatures & accelerated the oxidation process. At elevated temperatures each 10 deg. C. rise halves the life of the fluid. In this case ZF recommend a fluid change at anything between 50,000 and 75,000 miles
 
thank you very much for that info. i tend to drive it slow so i should be good for a few years yet. only did 1600 miles in it last year. we use a petro canada dexron III at work in all our auto boxes ill check if this is compatible.
 
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