-
Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums
You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.
Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now
3 link front suspension
- Thread starter AndyD
- Start date
antshybrid
Offroader
its a great project mate, got me thinking about my hybrid. its coming off the road when the 110 is done to have a re-furb so im getting a bit excited at this line of thought! 
by the way, have you ever seen the hockey stick attachments that whitbread 4x4 use. they screw on the ends and provide you with lot more travel, limited only by your shocks. if you want i could post a pic, ive got a brand new pair sitting on the bench
by the way, have you ever seen the hockey stick attachments that whitbread 4x4 use. they screw on the ends and provide you with lot more travel, limited only by your shocks. if you want i could post a pic, ive got a brand new pair sitting on the bench 
AndyD
Offroader
Hi Ant,
Please, that would be useful. How much were they ? as there not on there website.
Am working on a front shock mount like this (see pics), what do you think ? Not as nice as a tubular twin mount with just the front one fitted but cheap to make Only downside is that the engine gets all the crap sprayed onto it through the hole
Also working on the rear mount as per the other pic, just need to find someone to bend me the tube for it. The plates are more laser cut parts.
Cheers,
Please, that would be useful. How much were they ? as there not on there website.
Am working on a front shock mount like this (see pics), what do you think ? Not as nice as a tubular twin mount with just the front one fitted but cheap to make
Only downside is that the engine gets all the crap sprayed onto it through the hole Also working on the rear mount as per the other pic, just need to find someone to bend me the tube for it. The plates are more laser cut parts.
Cheers,
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
antshybrid
Offroader
AndyD
Offroader
Ouch.... that hurts....
I guess you'd have to fabricate new mountings for them on the chassis. My new arms from QT will have 6 degrees of crank on the chassis end to unload the bushes allowing for more droop. I'll also change from red poly's to blue or possibly orange if they do them in that grade.
Cheers,
I guess you'd have to fabricate new mountings for them on the chassis. My new arms from QT will have 6 degrees of crank on the chassis end to unload the bushes allowing for more droop. I'll also change from red poly's to blue or possibly orange if they do them in that grade.
Cheers,
AndyD
Offroader
Hi,
Just to get things straight in my own mind. The more lift you have on your truck, the longer the third link needs to be to correct the castor angle.
Updated:
Sorted this now and have thought of a way to use another modified radius arm with the x-member mounting bolted on, thus allowing for shimming to adjust the castor. Will all be nice and heavy duty using standard bushes etc for ongoing ease of maintenance.
Cheers,
Andy
Just to get things straight in my own mind. The more lift you have on your truck, the longer the third link needs to be to correct the castor angle.
Updated:
Sorted this now and have thought of a way to use another modified radius arm with the x-member mounting bolted on, thus allowing for shimming to adjust the castor. Will all be nice and heavy duty using standard bushes etc for ongoing ease of maintenance.
Cheers,
Andy
Last edited by a moderator:
AndyD
Offroader
And here are the pics of the x-member being trial fitted. Had to use my hi-lift to spread the chassis rails to get the old x-member out.. there darn heavy when your working overhead !!
A couple of pics also of the components ready for final welding & powder coating.
Cheers,
A couple of pics also of the components ready for final welding & powder coating.
Cheers,
Attachments
antshybrid
Offroader
you have done a good job there mate! how long do you think till its done? i saw the ad in LRW too, bit pricey eh
AndyD
Offroader
antshybrid said:you have done a good job there mate! how long do you think till its done? i saw the ad in LRW too, bit pricey eh
Hi Ant,
I should get these parts back for next weekend, I now need to draw up the x-member mounting for the central link. Just have to measure the 'at rest' angle for the central link to horizontal so under normal driving it's not stressed all the time. Will order the new radius arms from QT on Monday, so, might be back rolling for Xmas
Cheers,
antshybrid
Offroader
jealous as hell mate!! i might have to bribe you into releasing the secret dimensions :bowdown: haha
im sure if enougth of us pester him for long enougth
he could make and sell some diy kits (with comprehensive fitting instructions )fair does mate lookes a real quality job your doing , how many paper templates did you make and scrap before you got the right angles etc
AndyD
Offroader
Hi,
I only made a few templates as I use AutoCad to produce my drawings. Simple to make adjustments and them print, stick & snip out.
Here are a few more pics of this mornings work. I have checked the castor angle with the existing QT 3 degree corrected arms for 2" lift (book says 3 degrees at rest & was OK). Using my jack I've set the axle back to 3 degrees with the 3 link assy in so I can measure the distance between the central link mounting on the axle and x-member.
Next I need to lift the body +2" over my setup (2" lift) and measure the central link again. This will allow me to back estimate the packer thickness for the middle mounting bracket if there was no lift at all since I don't have any standard length springs to work off.
Will post a few more pics later tonight when I get finished.
Cheers,
I only made a few templates as I use AutoCad to produce my drawings. Simple to make adjustments and them print, stick & snip out.
Here are a few more pics of this mornings work. I have checked the castor angle with the existing QT 3 degree corrected arms for 2" lift (book says 3 degrees at rest & was OK). Using my jack I've set the axle back to 3 degrees with the 3 link assy in so I can measure the distance between the central link mounting on the axle and x-member.
Next I need to lift the body +2" over my setup (2" lift) and measure the central link again. This will allow me to back estimate the packer thickness for the middle mounting bracket if there was no lift at all since I don't have any standard length springs to work off.
Will post a few more pics later tonight when I get finished.
Cheers,
Attachments
AndyD
Offroader
Back again,
Didn't get any more pics as nothing worth taking. Did however, get the central link measured for 0" - 4" of lift with the axle castor angle constant at 3 degrees. Also measured up for a simple plumb bob setting jig... thinking ahead here
Have also tried a QT radius arm with greased bushes in the chassis end and it rotates quite freely. So, will be using another shortened QT arm for deffinate as the central link now.
Just to draw up the mounting for it and get the parts lasered out next week.
More posts as I get it sorted.
Cheers,
Didn't get any more pics as nothing worth taking. Did however, get the central link measured for 0" - 4" of lift with the axle castor angle constant at 3 degrees. Also measured up for a simple plumb bob setting jig... thinking ahead here
Have also tried a QT radius arm with greased bushes in the chassis end and it rotates quite freely. So, will be using another shortened QT arm for deffinate as the central link now.
Just to draw up the mounting for it and get the parts lasered out next week.
More posts as I get it sorted.
Cheers,
white90
Accelerating Away
Andy
Paul Wightman over on LRE forum builds/designs his own 3 link too
he utilises a tractor top link modified as the third link
there are decent sized rose joints on those and the price is very reasonable.
also his ddesign includes cut outs in the bulkhead outrigger to allow plenty more upward movment too.
Paul Wightman over on LRE forum builds/designs his own 3 link too
he utilises a tractor top link modified as the third link
there are decent sized rose joints on those and the price is very reasonable.
also his ddesign includes cut outs in the bulkhead outrigger to allow plenty more upward movment too.
