Cliff - 1981 Series 3 109 V8 Stage 1

[Cliff4WD]

Hmmm, after I get over my indignation at the atrocious thread intrusion above. How do you delete posts ? Anyway...

Flat 80 grit sanding disc is recommended to get a good flat surface. Then finish up with 180grit. Weld can be ground with something more aggressive like flat grinding disc first. Flapper discs are great, but a bit imprecise for accurate weld grinding as invariably the surroinding steel gets thinned in the process, hence the flat disc recommendations.
I'm actually having to use a flapper disc on my grinder at present until I get the appropriate that tools. I want air tools and plan on buying 3" angle grinder/sander and 20mm belt sander, but it's all money to find.

 

[Paul1977T]

My apologies for intruding i meant no offence.

 

[Big Sandy]

Hmmm, after I get over my indignation at the atrocious thread intrusion above. How do you delete posts ? Anyway

My apologies for intruding i meant no offence.

No problems.... Posts now in new thread in workshop section.

 

[DarrenH]

you are doing great with the bulkhead

 

[Big Sandy]

Nothing worse than trying to repair something that somebody else has already had a go at.

Its looking good though, already. Definite improvement

 

[Cliff4WD]

Finished off the footwell stiffener and plug welded it in place

The poor repairs visible through the rubbish paint job have been niggeling at me, so I decided to strip the paint off and get a proper look at what's hiding. So, out with the paint stripper...

...later...

Unfortunately, as I suspected, the old repairs were not done well...

also, it is apparant that it has been sand blasted leaving the surface quite rough and blown through in places and just covered up with filler...

Ah well, more work to do.

 

[Guitar Mick]

The more you uncover the more you find to do.....HeyHo Looking good though. Thanks for the advice on the sanding discs, I'd have a workshop full of tools, if I could, but like you say, it's all money

 

[Cliff4WD]

With the paint out of the way and getting a better view of what was hiding underneath, I decided to sort things out. I started with the horrible looking bodgeup in the centre, which had dodgy welding and filler on top of rot.

I peeled back the overrlap and chipped out the filler

There was a scrappy looking section of angle welded on the front

so cut the whole section out...

Now, Since the PO had seam welded, I wasn't going to get this apart easily so I decided better to make a new section. First I filled in the missing bit...

...and then set to work fabricating...

I'm quite pleased with this

Clamped it in position...

Ready to plug weld

Then welded and cleaned up

 

[Cliff4WD]

Next up the small patch.

Working on the basis that each old repair I've looked at so far has had rot underneath it, I can't really afford to leave it untouched, besides, aesthetically, I find it unbearable to look at even if it will be hidden behind the dash, so out it comes...

As suspected, rust perforated metal still underneath, so cut it out...

Neutralise the rot...

And but weld in new patch...

I'm a little disappointed with my welding as I don't seem to be able to get thing cleaned up as well as I want. Hopefully some new grinding and sanding tools will help. I'm taking great care to avoid distortion by stitch welding and cooling each weld and going very slowly, but I'm still having a hard time.

 

[Cliff4WD]

Thought before I weldup the driver side footwell, best check it still fits. So tacked the footwell in place and carried the whole assembly to the vehicle.

Well that's a relief, still fits.

Ah well, back to welding then.

 

[Grid Man]

Nice work !

 

[Guitar Mick]

What a difference, very tidy
Can I ask what the purple wash was that you brushed over the area where you were welding in a plate to replace the rotten part under the oval hole?

 

[Cliff4WD]

What a difference, very tidy
Can I ask what the purple wash was that you brushed over the area where you were welding in a plate to replace the rotten part under the oval hole?

Jenolite Mick.

 

[Guitar Mick]

Jesus......there's loads of them. Which one do you use and why?

 

[Cliff4WD]

The rust converter type. There are other brands available too. I use this first to stop the rust going further. It converts the oxide layer (layer) turning it black and leaving it to provide a protective barrier. It can then be painted over.
I haven't fully decided yet, but I planned to have the complete bulkhead hot dipped galvanized, so I'm only using the Jenolite to provide a temporary protection while the bare steel is exposed.

 

[Guitar Mick]

Thanks for the detail, do you have to clean it off before you weld, or doesn't it matter?

 

[Cliff4WD]

Just weld.

 

[DarrenH]

@Guitar Mick rust converter will hinder welding equal to a paint covering. the heat will burn it off, but does put impurities into the weld and interfere with shielding gas

 

[Guitar Mick]

Thanks Cliff & Darren. I find it's always benificial to learn from others experience

 

[Cliff4WD]

This is like a never ending nightmare, the more you do; the more you reveal, and the more to put right. I'm having a rest this weekend as I've been lost in the land of bulkhead for too long without coming up for air. I'll just write up this weeks work before I put my feet up.

Having test fitted the bulkhead back on the chassis, it was time to weld up the drivers side footwell in place, so plugged and dressed and all nice and solid. Next, I turned my attention to the top corners and top rail. Although it feels pretty solid, the badly patched-over top left inside corner is no doubt hiding rot and future problems.

Also, the inner top lip of the vent opening is rotten in several places. This was obviously where the rust flakes had come from when I first inspected. It's quite amazing how much you struggle to see when hidden from plain view. It had the vent panels in the filter screens in place of course as well as paint.

After cutting out the patchover, sure enough, rusty old steel...

...and the outside looked like this remember

...so cut that away to reveal this

Cleaned up and a bit of rust converter

I cut a piece of steel to strengthen it up...

...and plugged it in place. I'm a bit nervous I'm adding a moisture trap but hopefully, after hot dipping, it will be good. Did the other side too.

I had cut out, cleaned and treated the inside area...

The end concave section retained temporarily for reference.

Next, was to fabricate a piece to fit in place of the cut out steel. This took a while and I didn't photograph progress as I made it. Ended up with something that should work

Rescued the captive nuts (I could have used new rivnuts but nice to keep the look authentic)

...and plugged it in position

Finally, fitted in place.

Not finished it yet, but had enough for now. Back soon.
I