Wow.... that's some piece of work ! A lovely bit of panel beating to get that piece for the inside corner of the vent. Very impressive 
-
Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums
You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.
Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now
Cliff - 1981 Series 3 109 V8 Stage 1
- Thread starter Cliff4WD
- Start date
Surprising what you can achieve with a few hammers
I'm nowhere near painting stage yet, but when I have my bulkhead sorted, it will need to be painted before it goes back on the vehicle. My dilema is colour: My Stage 1 is Limestone but I quite fancy something different. To my eye the original range of colours now look pretty dated, and although the Stage 1 is of course nearly 40 years old and those colours are correct for keeping it period looking, I can't help but think that it would look a whole lot better given a bit of a facelift with a nice paint job.
I'd very much appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.
I was thinking maybe the pastel green 'heritage' look, or far more radical 'zambezi silver'.
I'd very much appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.
I was thinking maybe the pastel green 'heritage' look, or far more radical 'zambezi silver'.
That's always a tricky one. Do you keep it to period colours or do you forget about authenticity at re-sale and put your own stamp on it and go with something you really like?. Back in the early 80's I renovated a 72 first gen. Range Rover. It had been painted black (badly), Land Rovers colours for Range Rovers had'nt moved on much, so I resprayed it Persian Aqua. A Rover car colour, as I really liked the light metalic effect.
If I had to make the colour choice today, I would have to go with a period correct colour. Probably more to secure it's value than for any other reason.
If I had to make the colour choice today, I would have to go with a period correct colour. Probably more to secure it's value than for any other reason.
Pastel Green is nice, but it (at least in the modern versions of paint I have used) fades like a fady thing. Almost goes a weird blue in fact.
Time for a quick update. I've been experiencing bulkhead fatigue; the last 20% always seem to take 80% of the effort. I'm looking forward to putting the welder away for a while and getting back on the spanners. I moved the spare LT95 nearer my work area in readiness as I think I'll probably be pulling the original out and having a go at overhauling it, we shall see.
Back to the bulkhead then. Top corner first. The YRM panels are only ÂŁ19 for the pair...
... so seemed pointless trying to make my own even though I only need a small section...
I cut the top corner piece and fettled to fit...
...then it was weldup and grind
Next, time to fit that strengthening piece I'd made when I started. Drilled it for plug welding and checked for fit...
...then did the welding
...and then the cleanup
Next job, the rusty vent surround. First off, the top rail was a bit out of shape and dented in places. There's damage including old grinder and hammer marks. God only knows what whoever did that thought they were doing. I spent a bit of time with hammer and dolly and put it right.
Started with this section
I decided to take out the rotted sections and replace with new steel. I did consider trying to source a replacement top rail but that would probably risk more than I gain, the rot is localised and so should be easy enough to deal with in sections, so out with section one
I then made up a replacement section...
...and welded n place
So on it goes, nearly there now.
Back to the bulkhead then. Top corner first. The YRM panels are only ÂŁ19 for the pair...
... so seemed pointless trying to make my own even though I only need a small section...
I cut the top corner piece and fettled to fit...
...then it was weldup and grind
Next, time to fit that strengthening piece I'd made when I started. Drilled it for plug welding and checked for fit...
...then did the welding
...and then the cleanup
Next job, the rusty vent surround. First off, the top rail was a bit out of shape and dented in places. There's damage including old grinder and hammer marks. God only knows what whoever did that thought they were doing. I spent a bit of time with hammer and dolly and put it right.
Started with this section
I decided to take out the rotted sections and replace with new steel. I did consider trying to source a replacement top rail but that would probably risk more than I gain, the rot is localised and so should be easy enough to deal with in sections, so out with section one
I then made up a replacement section...
...and welded n place
So on it goes, nearly there now.
Looking great, so impressed with your metal work
Shows what can be done if you are prepared to stick at it.
Shows what can be done if you are prepared to stick at it.
Have you seen the price of bulkheads? There's much that can be accomplished in the persuit of not spending money Thanks for the compliment though.
Thanks for the compliment though.
Just looking at the yrm bulkhead corner panels.
Does anybody make the windscreen hinges? I've never seen them.
Does anybody make the windscreen hinges? I've never seen them.
Almost done with bulkhead rust repairs now. I have to admit, finding the motivation to finish it is not easy; the novelty of cutting out rot, making a patch piece, and welding it in and grinding has long since passed. But, the end is now in sight.
Cut out perforated section from top front panel...
...and tacked in replacement piece...
...then welded up and cleaned
Next, sort the LH side of the vent mesh housing
Cut out the rotten section...
...then fabricate the teplacement piece...
...weldup and clean
Next, the bubbling and rot on RH top corner
Same old story when you reveal what's hiding underneath
Clean it up and treat...
...then patch in new steel and clean up
Now for the RH top corner.
I was so tempted to just fill in the holes with weld, but that would be silly having done so much already. Just need to keep going and get finished without cutting corners.
Cut out the rot...
...make a piece for the corner...
...and weld it in
Time for beer! I'll finish the last bit next week and then sort out galvanizing.
Cut out perforated section from top front panel...
...and tacked in replacement piece...
...then welded up and cleaned
Next, sort the LH side of the vent mesh housing
Cut out the rotten section...
...then fabricate the teplacement piece...
...weldup and clean
Next, the bubbling and rot on RH top corner
Same old story when you reveal what's hiding underneath
Clean it up and treat...
...then patch in new steel and clean up
Now for the RH top corner.
I was so tempted to just fill in the holes with weld, but that would be silly having done so much already. Just need to keep going and get finished without cutting corners.
Cut out the rot...
...make a piece for the corner...
...and weld it in
Time for beer! I'll finish the last bit next week and then sort out galvanizing.
A couple of questions Cliff, what did you use to get into those really tight spaces to cut out the rotten metal above the vents and what's your preferred rust treatment?
Just think how much it would have cost if you had to pay someone else to do it
Just think how much it would have cost if you had to pay someone else to do it
I use a 115mm diameter 1mm slitting disc on my angle grinder and a 50mm diameter 1mm cutting disc on my air powered cut off tool. I use the worn down (smaller diameter) cutting discs to help get into tighter areas. I also use a sharp chisel to finish off cuts that don't quite get there. I also plan to buy a reciprocating saw tool at some point.
Grinding is a challenge too. I have straight and angle die grinders, and a a 10mm air belt sander. Hand files as needed. Again, getting into the tight areas is a problem and I need more tools, but it all costs money, so slowly accumulating what I need.
I use a mix of grinding discs and flap disc in varying diameters and grits.
Rust treatment I like the Jenolite rust converter (although hammerite kurust is ok too) I haven't used other like Fertan, but they are all pretty much the same using Tannic acid to react with Iron and create a black protective surface layer.
Grinding is a challenge too. I have straight and angle die grinders, and a a 10mm air belt sander. Hand files as needed. Again, getting into the tight areas is a problem and I need more tools, but it all costs money, so slowly accumulating what I need.
I use a mix of grinding discs and flap disc in varying diameters and grits.
Rust treatment I like the Jenolite rust converter (although hammerite kurust is ok too) I haven't used other like Fertan, but they are all pretty much the same using Tannic acid to react with Iron and create a black protective surface layer.
I forgot to mention that some converters use Phosphoric acid as the active ingredient. i need to check but I think Jenolite is phosphoric acid based which makes it more expensive than the tannic acid versions. You could probably make a very strong brew of tannic with old tea bags and paint that on. I read somewhere a good article listing all the different versions with an effectiveness assessment. I'm trying to find it again and will post it if I do.
Looks like I need some more tools........Dam it !
Thanks for the info Cliff
Thanks for the info Cliff
I made an effort and finished off the welding repairs, so finally, can arrange galvanising and move on to the next phase and stop boring you all with bulkhead welding.
Marked section to remove...
...cut out and cut patch piece to fit...
...and weldup
So, after refitting gutter and giving it a good clean, I finally have a complete bulkhead ready for galvanising
The really soul destroying part of this so far is trying to make good the damage done by whoever butchered the bulkhead in the past. There was a lot more hiding under the paint than was expected. It all looked good to begin with, but then found hammer dents, grinding cuts, deep sanding swirls, hidden rot, heat distortion, etc. Anyway, got there. I have had to leave the dents and dings I can't get behind and will have to fill them when it's painted, I just hope I'm able to make a decent job of it when it comes to it.
Marked section to remove...
...cut out and cut patch piece to fit...
...and weldup
So, after refitting gutter and giving it a good clean, I finally have a complete bulkhead ready for galvanising
The really soul destroying part of this so far is trying to make good the damage done by whoever butchered the bulkhead in the past. There was a lot more hiding under the paint than was expected. It all looked good to begin with, but then found hammer dents, grinding cuts, deep sanding swirls, hidden rot, heat distortion, etc. Anyway, got there. I have had to leave the dents and dings I can't get behind and will have to fill them when it's painted, I just hope I'm able to make a decent job of it when it comes to it.
That's a damn good base to move forward from. You don't want it to be looking brand new, it's a vehicle that has had a life so it should show it's history. What you have there is sympathetic restoration not a brand new vehicle. You should be proud of a job well done and for bringing a vehicle back to where it should be had it been looked after properly. Well done 
You say you are going to have the bulkhead galvanised, I've heard hot dip galvanising can cause problems, are you concerned about distortion from the galvanising process?
You say you are going to have the bulkhead galvanised, I've heard hot dip galvanising can cause problems, are you concerned about distortion from the galvanising process?
Yes, but most people who have had theirs done have reported no disasters. Maybe I'll be the first one !