SalopDisco
Accelerating Away
Hi Cliff, On my 2004 manual the drain plug is 3/8 sq drive and filler is TX55 in case you were wondering.
Regards,
Griff
Regards,
Griff
-
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Cliff's Disco 2 thread
- Thread starter Cliff4WD
- Start date
After a sleepless night worrying about the mess I'd made of the EGR removal and how I was going to sort the exhaust manifold blanking debacle that I'd created, I got straight back on it. Seems I'd maybe worried myself unduly as it turned out I had drilled out the bolt remnant pretty well. the hole was at a slight angle but it did align with the hole in the blanking plate. Problem now was how to tap the thread? I had a serious rummage through my various tool boxes and and old tool stashes and found an old box spanner that held my thread tapping bit nicely. I gave it a squeeze in the vise for god measure and then used it with a ratchet spanner on the other end to tap the thread for the M6 bolt. Success! The blanking plate was fitted and bolted tight.
I can't tell you what a relief this was as I really though I'd messed this up. After quite a few years of meaning to get shot of the EGR, I've finally done it.
With the blanking plate sorted, it was back to the top hose and coolant outlet union. The old one was pretty corroded and had leaked ...
... so it seemed like a good idea to replace it for a nice shiney new one
I then fitted the top hose that I've had sat in my spares box for a couple of years
These come with clips fitted and all marked up for idiot proof fitting (LR obviously know the calibre of the mechanics they employ
)
I was quickly fitted
Next, since I managed to drop a box of screw extractor bits down the front of the air box, it had to come out.
it gave me an opportunity to have a clean up underneath the box and also to replace the perishing foam seal on the air intake to body union.
Of course, while I was here I gave my foam air filter a good clean, it was absolutely gopping with oily gunge.
I refilled the coolant and started up and left it running a while to check for leaks while it warmed up. I forgot to mention. I also had the cam cover off and cleaned and refitted the gasket. I want to stop the oil leaking from the rear of the cover. After giving the gasket and surfaces a clean and degrease, I applied the two 3mm beads of sealant either side of where the half moon part of the gasket sits, I also put a smear of Hylomar blue on before bedding the gasket. We'll see if this sorts the leaking.
It was now a matter of replacing everything I'd taken off, so heat shield, acoustic cover, bonnet, etc. All back together and hopefully all working. I do still have a small patch to weld on the nearside rear wheel arch, and I have to take the steering wheel off again to investigate a strange noise when I turn the wheel, but other than that, It's about done and ready to take for MOT. Assuming it passes I might even get to drive it again soon!
I can't tell you what a relief this was as I really though I'd messed this up. After quite a few years of meaning to get shot of the EGR, I've finally done it.
With the blanking plate sorted, it was back to the top hose and coolant outlet union. The old one was pretty corroded and had leaked ...
... so it seemed like a good idea to replace it for a nice shiney new one
I then fitted the top hose that I've had sat in my spares box for a couple of years
These come with clips fitted and all marked up for idiot proof fitting (LR obviously know the calibre of the mechanics they employ
)I was quickly fitted
Next, since I managed to drop a box of screw extractor bits down the front of the air box, it had to come out.
it gave me an opportunity to have a clean up underneath the box and also to replace the perishing foam seal on the air intake to body union.
Of course, while I was here I gave my foam air filter a good clean, it was absolutely gopping with oily gunge.
I refilled the coolant and started up and left it running a while to check for leaks while it warmed up. I forgot to mention. I also had the cam cover off and cleaned and refitted the gasket. I want to stop the oil leaking from the rear of the cover. After giving the gasket and surfaces a clean and degrease, I applied the two 3mm beads of sealant either side of where the half moon part of the gasket sits, I also put a smear of Hylomar blue on before bedding the gasket. We'll see if this sorts the leaking.
It was now a matter of replacing everything I'd taken off, so heat shield, acoustic cover, bonnet, etc. All back together and hopefully all working. I do still have a small patch to weld on the nearside rear wheel arch, and I have to take the steering wheel off again to investigate a strange noise when I turn the wheel, but other than that, It's about done and ready to take for MOT. Assuming it passes I might even get to drive it again soon!
Dave Cook
Big Landy Fan
You’re getting there Cliff, nearly the end of an epic rebuild.. but what are we going to read when you are done! I hope you will be straight back onto the stage 1..After a sleepless night worrying about the mess I'd made of the EGR removal and how I was going to sort the exhaust manifold blanking debacle that I'd created, I got straight back on it. Seems I'd maybe worried myself unduly as it turned out I had drilled out the bolt remnant pretty well. the hole was at a slight angle but it did align with the hole in the blanking plate. Problem now was how to tap the thread? I had a serious rummage through my various tool boxes and and old tool stashes and found an old box spanner that held my thread tapping bit nicely. I gave it a squeeze in the vise for god measure and then used it with a ratchet spanner on the other end to tap the thread for the M6 bolt. Success! The blanking plate was fitted and bolted tight.
I can't tell you what a relief this was as I really though I'd messed this up. After quite a few years of meaning to get shot of the EGR, I've finally done it.
With the blanking plate sorted, it was back to the top hose and coolant outlet union. The old one was pretty corroded and had leaked ...
... so it seemed like a good idea to replace it for a nice shiney new one
I then fitted the top hose that I've had sat in my spares box for a couple of years
These come with clips fitted and all marked up for idiot proof fitting (LR obviously know the calibre of the mechanics they employ
I was quickly fitted
Next, since I managed to drop a box of screw extractor bits down the front of the air box, it had to come out.
it gave me an opportunity to have a clean up underneath the box and also to replace the perishing foam seal on the air intake to body union.
Of course, while I was here I gave my foam air filter a good clean, it was absolutely gopping with oily gunge.
I refilled the coolant and started up and left it running a while to check for leaks while it warmed up. I forgot to mention. I also had the cam cover off and cleaned and refitted the gasket. I want to stop the oil leaking from the rear of the cover. After giving the gasket and surfaces a clean and degrease, I applied the two 3mm beads of sealant either side of where the half moon part of the gasket sits, I also put a smear of Hylomar blue on before bedding the gasket. We'll see if this sorts the leaking.
It was now a matter of replacing everything I'd taken off, so heat shield, acoustic cover, bonnet, etc. All back together and hopefully all working. I do still have a small patch to weld on the nearside rear wheel arch, and I have to take the steering wheel off again to investigate a strange noise when I turn the wheel, but other than that, It's about done and ready to take for MOT. Assuming it passes I might even get to drive it again soon!
@Dave Cook I think this all started with a ball joint change! Soooooo I can't wait for @Cliff4WD to change the rear interior bulb and show us how to rebuild the rear watts linkages whilst he's got the light cover off in the boot
Seriously good work and writeup by Cliff again.
Seriously good work and writeup by Cliff again.
Hmmm, now that gives me an idea.@Dave Cook I think this all started with a ball joint change! Soooooo I can't wait for @Cliff4WD to change the rear interior bulb and show us how to rebuild the rear watts linkages whilst he's got the light cover off in the boot
Seriously good work and writeup by Cliff again.
It would be nice to get back on the Stage One, the Disco distraction has been a royal pain in the backside. I was in the middle of rewiring with the new loom and close to firing up the V8. I hope I don't encounter any of the problems that you have had when I do that.You’re getting there Cliff, nearly the end of an epic rebuild.. but what are we going to read when you are done! I hope you will be straight back onto the stage 1..
Dave Cook
Big Landy Fan
I doubt you’ll have any bother Cliff, you know what you are doing, whilst I haven’t a clue.. I get there in the end though.. usually
A warning to Nanocom users:
My heart sank yesterday and I really felt like torching the bloody vehicle or myself. I had the Nanocom on it and was going to check the coolant temp after allowing it to run and warm up. I don't know why, but the Nanocom displayed this ...
Disaster! I switched off the ignition and turned back to Posn 2 but nothing, worse still, the immobiliser kicked in and I couldn't start it back up either. I was devastated. I got out, shut the door and tried the fob, thank God it locked and unlocked fine and it remobilised; just the Nanocom was dead. Still, pretty depressing as they aren't cheap and not cheap to send it to Cyprus for repair either. After getting over the initial crushing depression I was experiencing, I took the Nano indoors and plugged it into my laptop, bingo, it lit up and recognised the SD card, so plugged it into a 12v power supply and it booted up, talk about relief! So it must be the vehicle ...
... yep, blown F20.
In an absent minded moment I'd left the cable plugged into the OBD and connected the Nano at the serial port. This is a no no as the result can be as in my case, or worse, blow the Nanocom.
I'm not touching anything else this weekend.
My heart sank yesterday and I really felt like torching the bloody vehicle or myself. I had the Nanocom on it and was going to check the coolant temp after allowing it to run and warm up. I don't know why, but the Nanocom displayed this ...
Disaster! I switched off the ignition and turned back to Posn 2 but nothing, worse still, the immobiliser kicked in and I couldn't start it back up either. I was devastated. I got out, shut the door and tried the fob, thank God it locked and unlocked fine and it remobilised; just the Nanocom was dead. Still, pretty depressing as they aren't cheap and not cheap to send it to Cyprus for repair either. After getting over the initial crushing depression I was experiencing, I took the Nano indoors and plugged it into my laptop, bingo, it lit up and recognised the SD card, so plugged it into a 12v power supply and it booted up, talk about relief! So it must be the vehicle ...
... yep, blown F20.
In an absent minded moment I'd left the cable plugged into the OBD and connected the Nano at the serial port. This is a no no as the result can be as in my case, or worse, blow the Nanocom.
I'm not touching anything else this weekend.
Waited for the rain to stop and the sun to come out. Fortunately, it was cleared up dry by lunchtime, so had lunch then got back stuck in. I needed to adjust the steering wheel as there seemed to be a strange noise coming from the coupling ring. Wheel off and refitted and all OK. Not sure what was causing the noise, but all smooth and quiet now so happy. Refitted my auxiliary battery and checked everything was working as it should, then started up and let it run for a while. It's running nice and smooth, it's bone dry inside the vehicle after several spells of heavy rain, and the scuttle is dry too, so looks like the additional drain holes I drilled are working well. Next job on the list was the tailgate door adjustment. I slackened the hinge bolts and with a 2 foot length of 4x2, jacked the door up and re-tightened the hinge bolts. There's hardly any movement as there really isn't any adjustment available on those hinges, but it shifted enough to make much closer contact with the top seal. I'll have to see how this fares over time.
Having gotten to this stage, I was at last able to reverse it back away from the Birch tree that was obstructing my access to the rear nearside door. The last (for the moment) job on my list is to deal with the rusty hole in the rear wheel arch.
"Doddle" I thought to myself, "just cut that out and put a patch in and done", so cut it out ...
... If only life were so simple! I now realised that the inner arch and the rear quarter panel are of course two separate parts welded together. That's why the hole's there, because of the rubbish construction. I'll have to do something more than just weld in a single square of steel.
There's also the rotten rear mudguard that I've been meaning to sort out for about 4 years now.
Since everything is covered in dried on mud, I decided a quick power wash was in order so that I can see what is what.
You guessed it, I could now see much more clearly ...
The other rusty hole going through into the seal!
I'm wondering if I died and went to hell
Having gotten to this stage, I was at last able to reverse it back away from the Birch tree that was obstructing my access to the rear nearside door. The last (for the moment) job on my list is to deal with the rusty hole in the rear wheel arch.
"Doddle" I thought to myself, "just cut that out and put a patch in and done", so cut it out ...
... If only life were so simple! I now realised that the inner arch and the rear quarter panel are of course two separate parts welded together. That's why the hole's there, because of the rubbish construction. I'll have to do something more than just weld in a single square of steel.
There's also the rotten rear mudguard that I've been meaning to sort out for about 4 years now.
Since everything is covered in dried on mud, I decided a quick power wash was in order so that I can see what is what.
You guessed it, I could now see much more clearly ...
The other rusty hole going through into the seal!
I'm wondering if I died and went to hell
Spent most of the day yesterday cutting out more rot and getting that rotten mud shield off. Quite a bit of drilling and grinding was needed to remove the thing and the stay.
Typically, the fixing to the bottom of the rear wing is classic Land Rover steel through aluminium, so I have a nice hole there due to the galvanic corrosion.
The bottom of the inner arch is spot welded to the cill and sits close to the chassis outrigger that supports a body mount; another in-built mud trap and rot point! These bodies are littered with unnecessary corrosion failure points. They boast of the various anti corrosion treatments and wax injections yet have guaranteed failure points built into the design. Another piece to cut out.
With the rot removed it's back to making and welding in patch pieces. I started with the hole in the door reveal/wheel arch of the D post outer assembly
Had to leave it there for now.
Typically, the fixing to the bottom of the rear wing is classic Land Rover steel through aluminium, so I have a nice hole there due to the galvanic corrosion.
The bottom of the inner arch is spot welded to the cill and sits close to the chassis outrigger that supports a body mount; another in-built mud trap and rot point! These bodies are littered with unnecessary corrosion failure points. They boast of the various anti corrosion treatments and wax injections yet have guaranteed failure points built into the design. Another piece to cut out.
With the rot removed it's back to making and welding in patch pieces. I started with the hole in the door reveal/wheel arch of the D post outer assembly
Had to leave it there for now.
More progress made, hopefully I've just about reached the finish line for this phase of maintenance/repairs.
Applied a skim of filler to the arch repair ...
... and rubbed it down
Side cill trims off, pull carpet back and inspect extent of rot in the floor
Cut out the rotten parts of the inner arch ready for patching
I didn't bother photographing the whole template making, steel patch making process as it's just repetition of the same old thing. I made 2 patch pieces and butt welded them in place, one for the floor hole and the other to cover the open cill end and replace the removed inner arch section.
I managed to have a silly accident while welding upside down as a blob of molten steel ignited the correx sheet I was laying on, not thinking, I patted the flame out and then realized that I didn't have my welding gauntlet on; the molten correx stuck to my skin and burned like stink. Had to divert my attention to repairing my hand instead of the Disco.
I welded it all in place and then covered it with a liberal application of seam sealant.
I let it dry overnight and the refreshed the underseal next day
Next up is the mudguard, it's certainly seen better days
I raided my trusty Cornflake packet stash and set about making a template ...
... and used it to mark out and cut out a new support panel from a sheet of galvanised steel.
This was then bent into the correct shape having carefully determined where the folds should be made. I just bend it by hand over a straight edge.
The rubber guard is fixed to the plate sandwiched between it and a fixing strip, held by a couple of rivets
Having already parted company from the plate, the fixing strip had to be removed by drilling out the old rivets
I nearly had a fatal accident trying to wire brush it clean as I caught an end and it shot off past me like a bullet just brushing my right ear! Took me ages to find it too as it had embedded itself in the wall behind some junk obscuring my view of it. Silly silly mistake.
A bit shaken, I opted to make a replacement.
Soon had the guard fixed onto the plate
The Stay was toast as well of course, so I need to make one of these too. Obviously, it's not necessary to copy the original design exactly, but I sometimes get carried away. So made my template to emulate the original ...
... and used it to cut out and fashion the replacement
All I had to do now was get it to fit on the vehicle, hoping I'd got my measurements right and drilled my holes in the right places, etc.
Seemed to fit
The spring clamp is holding a piece of aluminium against the wing while the bonding adhesive I've fixed it on with cures. The galvanic corrosion of the original steel rivet used to fix the steel shield to the wing had left a large round powdery hole in the wing. I'll drill a hole in the new aluminium and re-fix the shield when the adhesive has set. I've also roughly slapped on a bit of extra zinc primer to cover any areas of the galvanising that had been damaged during fabrication.
I have a few odds and ends to tends to and I also need to treat the remainder of the chassis, etc., with anti corrosion protection. It's hard to see the surface rust finding it's way through again even after all the previous painting. After that, I finally hope to be able to book it in for the MOT.
Applied a skim of filler to the arch repair ...
... and rubbed it down
Side cill trims off, pull carpet back and inspect extent of rot in the floor
Cut out the rotten parts of the inner arch ready for patching
I didn't bother photographing the whole template making, steel patch making process as it's just repetition of the same old thing. I made 2 patch pieces and butt welded them in place, one for the floor hole and the other to cover the open cill end and replace the removed inner arch section.
I managed to have a silly accident while welding upside down as a blob of molten steel ignited the correx sheet I was laying on, not thinking, I patted the flame out and then realized that I didn't have my welding gauntlet on; the molten correx stuck to my skin and burned like stink.
Had to divert my attention to repairing my hand instead of the Disco.I welded it all in place and then covered it with a liberal application of seam sealant.
I let it dry overnight and the refreshed the underseal next day
Next up is the mudguard, it's certainly seen better days
I raided my trusty Cornflake packet stash and set about making a template ...
... and used it to mark out and cut out a new support panel from a sheet of galvanised steel.
This was then bent into the correct shape having carefully determined where the folds should be made. I just bend it by hand over a straight edge.
The rubber guard is fixed to the plate sandwiched between it and a fixing strip, held by a couple of rivets
Having already parted company from the plate, the fixing strip had to be removed by drilling out the old rivets
I nearly had a fatal accident trying to wire brush it clean as I caught an end and it shot off past me like a bullet just brushing my right ear!
Took me ages to find it too as it had embedded itself in the wall behind some junk obscuring my view of it. Silly silly mistake.A bit shaken, I opted to make a replacement.
Soon had the guard fixed onto the plate
The Stay was toast as well of course, so I need to make one of these too. Obviously, it's not necessary to copy the original design exactly, but I sometimes get carried away. So made my template to emulate the original ...
... and used it to cut out and fashion the replacement
All I had to do now was get it to fit on the vehicle, hoping I'd got my measurements right and drilled my holes in the right places, etc.
Seemed to fit
The spring clamp is holding a piece of aluminium against the wing while the bonding adhesive I've fixed it on with cures. The galvanic corrosion of the original steel rivet used to fix the steel shield to the wing had left a large round powdery hole in the wing. I'll drill a hole in the new aluminium and re-fix the shield when the adhesive has set. I've also roughly slapped on a bit of extra zinc primer to cover any areas of the galvanising that had been damaged during fabrication.
I have a few odds and ends to tends to and I also need to treat the remainder of the chassis, etc., with anti corrosion protection. It's hard to see the surface rust finding it's way through again even after all the previous painting. After that, I finally hope to be able to book it in for the MOT.
Changed the rear diff oil today and replaced the plastic fill plug
... and then got to work treating the chassis, axle, etc., to some rust protection.
... and then got to work treating the chassis, axle, etc., to some rust protection.
I replaced the brake master cylinder and spent several hours power bleeding. I was surprised just how much air kept coming through the lines, it would look like there were no more bubbles and then after another few runs, another lot would come through. Anyway, I managed to improve the pedal quite a bit although to be honest, I don't think the master really made any difference (apart from the hole in my wallet); it was all the bleeding that did that. I now have a rock solid pedal with engine off and a slightly firmer sinking pedal when boosted. I have to concede to Fery's assertion that the pedal sinking is a consequence of the modulator. Make sure to run the modulator bleed as well as power or manual bleeding the lines.
Finally having completed my immediate to-do list, I gave the vehicle a thorough wash before moving out out of my garden and back onto the drive, then booked it in for MOT.
Today was MOT day and it passed with no advisories and much admiration and praise from the tester. We went over it together, me thinking I've bound to have missed something and fearing the worse while all he did was to tell me what a great job I'd made of everything. I have to say I was very well pleased and feel ever so slightly proud of my own achievements. Mustn't let it go to my head though! :biggrin: I can rely on being knocked back down on here.
Next task will be to sort the AC and fit the new condenser I bought, but I'll have a break first for winter and maybe get to drive it a bit.
Tax it now and I'm back on the road.
Finally having completed my immediate to-do list, I gave the vehicle a thorough wash before moving out out of my garden and back onto the drive, then booked it in for MOT.
Today was MOT day and it passed with no advisories and much admiration and praise from the tester. We went over it together, me thinking I've bound to have missed something and fearing the worse while all he did was to tell me what a great job I'd made of everything. I have to say I was very well pleased and feel ever so slightly proud of my own achievements. Mustn't let it go to my head though! :biggrin: I can rely on being knocked back down on here.
Next task will be to sort the AC and fit the new condenser I bought, but I'll have a break first for winter and maybe get to drive it a bit.
Tax it now and I'm back on the road.
Very well done mate. Seeing some of the work you have done you deserve praise!
Now enjoy it!
Now enjoy it!
Awesome work Cliff!
After all the anguish involved in sorting it out this year, I find that I've not had much chance to get out and about for various reasons, so the Disco has been parked on the drive and not moved much. Then along came more crappy weather and then a week of settled and frozen snow and ice. Now, I really should have put my trickle charger on the battery to keep it topped up as they do run down pretty quickly when not used for weeks, so having left the it sitting unused for a few weeks, and now covered in snow, I thought I'd best get it started and charged up.
I should never have been so lazy as to leave it this long. First problem was getting in it since the lock handle was frozen and not budging. After overcoming that particular issue, rather predictably, when turning the ignition key to PosII, as well as the glow plug lamp coming on, so did the ORM/SLS lamps, so clearly the battery voltage was way low. Not cranking of course, so I switched to my aux battery only to find that although it had better charge, it was still too low to get the engine started. I turned off the Heater/AC unit before cranking so that I had nothing else drawing current when first cranking (not that it would make any difference).
I got my NOCO Genius battery charger connected to my batteries and put it on charge then set to work digging SWMBO's Astra out of its own snow tomb. After an hour and some, I checked to see if the Td5 would turn over; it did and fired up. Now, with the engine running (NOCO still connected too), I pressed the 'on' button on the climate control module; nothing, it would not turn on. I tried a few times but it wasn't coming on. Typical I thought, get it running to defrost the vehicle and the blinking heater stops working. I had a look at the electrical library and circuit diags but I wasn't seeing anything obvious (I was hoping for a fuse).
I'd left the engine running to warm up and still charging, so after another hour, I tried the heater again but still wouldn't switch on. I turned off the ignition and decided to leave it on charge and forget about it for now. However, I decided to turn the ignition key to Pos II and try the heater again, and low and behold, it comes on: start the engine again and the on/off button doesn't work again. I was pretty confused by this odd situation but just left it with trickle charger connected.
I don't know what I've done to deserve it but the plot thickens. About 5 days later, snow now gone but lots of rain and a break in the weather, so took a look at my problem. Checked and replaced F23 in the passenger compartment fusebox (checked F20 while there too). Fuses all good. When I turn ignition to PosII, the instrument cluster lights up and self test completes, I hear the pump running and all seems normal. After glowplug lamp goes out, I turn key to PosIII to crank and now nothing; dead as anything. I can hear a faint click from behind the ignition barrel area but nothing else. Now I go get my multi-meter and discover that it's not working and waste time trying to fix it but to no avail, so no multi-meter available to check the relay. Had a quick look in the engine compartment fusebox and manually/visually checked relays and fuses, but nothing visible. I then climbed underneath and made sure the spade connector was tight on the starter motor. Finally, I hauled out another battery and tried a jump start in case, but that didn't work either.
I'm confused and now worried that I have another failed BCU. The fob locks/unlocks the vehicle, the heater blower is now working fine and the on/off button on the AC control working; it's just that dreaded dead/no crank issue. It started to rain again and I was getting wet so I gave up and went inside.
I don't know if any of my batteries are any good now so it could all be down to that. It's raining again so I don't fancy messing about outside getting soaked through trying to troubleshoot the problem.
I'll update when I have an answer.
I should never have been so lazy as to leave it this long. First problem was getting in it since the lock handle was frozen and not budging. After overcoming that particular issue, rather predictably, when turning the ignition key to PosII, as well as the glow plug lamp coming on, so did the ORM/SLS lamps, so clearly the battery voltage was way low. Not cranking of course, so I switched to my aux battery only to find that although it had better charge, it was still too low to get the engine started. I turned off the Heater/AC unit before cranking so that I had nothing else drawing current when first cranking (not that it would make any difference).
I got my NOCO Genius battery charger connected to my batteries and put it on charge then set to work digging SWMBO's Astra out of its own snow tomb. After an hour and some, I checked to see if the Td5 would turn over; it did and fired up. Now, with the engine running (NOCO still connected too), I pressed the 'on' button on the climate control module; nothing, it would not turn on. I tried a few times but it wasn't coming on. Typical I thought, get it running to defrost the vehicle and the blinking heater stops working. I had a look at the electrical library and circuit diags but I wasn't seeing anything obvious (I was hoping for a fuse).
I'd left the engine running to warm up and still charging, so after another hour, I tried the heater again but still wouldn't switch on. I turned off the ignition and decided to leave it on charge and forget about it for now. However, I decided to turn the ignition key to Pos II and try the heater again, and low and behold, it comes on: start the engine again and the on/off button doesn't work again. I was pretty confused by this odd situation but just left it with trickle charger connected.
I don't know what I've done to deserve it but the plot thickens. About 5 days later, snow now gone but lots of rain and a break in the weather, so took a look at my problem. Checked and replaced F23 in the passenger compartment fusebox (checked F20 while there too). Fuses all good. When I turn ignition to PosII, the instrument cluster lights up and self test completes, I hear the pump running and all seems normal. After glowplug lamp goes out, I turn key to PosIII to crank and now nothing; dead as anything. I can hear a faint click from behind the ignition barrel area but nothing else. Now I go get my multi-meter and discover that it's not working and waste time trying to fix it but to no avail, so no multi-meter available to check the relay. Had a quick look in the engine compartment fusebox and manually/visually checked relays and fuses, but nothing visible. I then climbed underneath and made sure the spade connector was tight on the starter motor. Finally, I hauled out another battery and tried a jump start in case, but that didn't work either.
I'm confused and now worried that I have another failed BCU. The fob locks/unlocks the vehicle, the heater blower is now working fine and the on/off button on the AC control working; it's just that dreaded dead/no crank issue. It started to rain again and I was getting wet so I gave up and went inside.
I don't know if any of my batteries are any good now so it could all be down to that. It's raining again so I don't fancy messing about outside getting soaked through trying to troubleshoot the problem.
I'll update when I have an answer.
German Grüner
Offroader
Good luck with troubleshooting!
Battery tester arrived; batteries are all good. It will have to wait until after Christmas.
German Grüner
Offroader
May be your problem is wear or dirt in starter actuator. You can solve it by disconnecting batt negative, and removing 4 hex 8mm screws. Behind cap you can extract the main part, and there is a great copper washer, and its reverse is used to be black carbonyzed. By cleaning its surface starter uses to come back to work. You dont need take out the whole starter, but you should go from bottom