You say slow progress but to be fair for the overall amount of time and how thorough you're being I'd say you are making huge leaps and bounds with every post!
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Cliff's Disco 2 thread
- Thread starter Cliff4WD
- Start date
Cheers. Oh to be twenty something years old again!
Replaced the transfer box oil today; what a pain! I never realised how awkward a spot the fill plug was situated, obstructed by the handbrake cable and the brake drum, and when I did manage to get my 1/2" square tool into the plug, I had no room to move it. Jobs that would be fairly straight forward with the vehicle on a lift are neigh on impossible laying on your back on he ground underneath it. Anyway, I managed it eventually, but what a waste of time and effort just to do an oil change. R380 and engine oil next on the list.
SalopDisco
Accelerating Away
Hi Cliff, I agree and use one of those hand pumps
uk.rs-online.com
Griff
RS PRO Plastic Multi-Purpose Mini Syphon Pump, 1L | RS
I'm fortunate in that I have a pit in the garage built by the previous owner. It does make fiddling underneath much easier. My Discovery, though, is in dock at the moment while the garage get me a price for welding as the MoT is due at the beginning of October. It is such a shame that the later D2s suffer from chassis and body rot so badly. Apparently, they're worse than the early ones. The thing drives beautifully, is comfortable and all the rest of it, yet is at risk of the scrapman because of rust. I suppose a replacement chassis would solve the problem, but, at 3 and a 1/2 grand that's a big outlay for an 18 year-old car, particularly as there is then all the associated work. So, fingers crossed, we'll see what the welder says.
German Grüner
Offroader
Bottles from Valvoline oil do have a special cap with a extendable tube. I use one of this bottles, its size is enough to bring it over exhaust tube and drop oil from upside using caps tube inside fill hole.
Regards
Regards
To clarify, I used a hand pump to refill the oil! The problem I was talking about was getting a suitable wrench/tool into the space to access and undo the fill plug. When I did get something in there, it was too tight to turn without a decent length breaker bar, etc. Being on the ground, it was a problem getting the tool into the plug and being able to turn it what with the ground in the way. It's a simple job if the vehicle is up on a lift or over a pit but not so easy sat on on the ground.
It was supposed to be Fascia Friday but didn't make it so had to wait till today, it will have to be Dash day Saturday. I did tidy up the heater assembly yesterday and fit new foam seals in place of the old perished stuff. I used neoprene which hopefully will do a better job and last.
I gave the facia a good scrub down and got rid of a lot of old grime and black mould, and a quick polish with Mr Sheen. It's surprisingly heavy but also pretty unweildy, I had to resort to asking SWMBO for assistance (not a good idea generally).
You have to wonder at times why every seemingly simple job has to become a massive challenge of endurance, 12 bolts and 4 nuts that took forever to get aligned and done up. Got there in the end but this is all really trying my patience.
I took the silly sliding cup holder out and swapped one of the black locking pins over to replace the broken one on the holder. I used the redundant ashtray one and removed the ashtray spring so that it stays closed.
Next task is to refurb the blower motor and replace the perished foam on the circulation flaps, etc.
I split it in half first ...
... and got better access to the flaps
These can then be removed by undoing the 2 small threaded screws that fix them to the shafts.
A bit of cleaning up required as ever and then cut some new foam to fit
Not my neatest work but it will do the job
Another day seems to have disappeared but it should just be a matter of re-assembling the various ECUs, etc., and putting the carpets, seats, etc., back on. (famous last words).
Seems I've blown it for PB as I didn't book my camping ticket and I doubt I'll get a MOT in time now anyway.
I gave the facia a good scrub down and got rid of a lot of old grime and black mould, and a quick polish with Mr Sheen. It's surprisingly heavy but also pretty unweildy, I had to resort to asking SWMBO for assistance (not a good idea generally).
You have to wonder at times why every seemingly simple job has to become a massive challenge of endurance, 12 bolts and 4 nuts that took forever to get aligned and done up. Got there in the end but this is all really trying my patience.
I took the silly sliding cup holder out and swapped one of the black locking pins over to replace the broken one on the holder. I used the redundant ashtray one and removed the ashtray spring so that it stays closed.
Next task is to refurb the blower motor and replace the perished foam on the circulation flaps, etc.
I split it in half first ...
... and got better access to the flaps
These can then be removed by undoing the 2 small threaded screws that fix them to the shafts.
A bit of cleaning up required as ever and then cut some new foam to fit
Not my neatest work but it will do the job
Another day seems to have disappeared but it should just be a matter of re-assembling the various ECUs, etc., and putting the carpets, seats, etc., back on. (famous last words).
Seems I've blown it for PB as I didn't book my camping ticket and I doubt I'll get a MOT in time now anyway.
More great work where others would have given up. Keep on going!
Your not wrong Jenks ..me being one of them I think …patience is the key
Cracking on, I cleaned and degreased the repaired foot well, cut and stuck down a replacement section of sound proofing.
Next, it was get the blower assembly back in, followed by the ECUs
Good job the various connectors only fit their designated sockets !
It's a great feeling getting the glove box back on and the carpet and trim refitted.
Shame I forgot the bracket that supports the blower assembly and loom
Barstewards! Oh well, why only do things once when you can do it twice.
Next, it was get the blower assembly back in, followed by the ECUs
Good job the various connectors only fit their designated sockets !
It's a great feeling getting the glove box back on and the carpet and trim refitted.
Shame I forgot the bracket that supports the blower assembly and loom
Barstewards! Oh well, why only do things once when you can do it twice.
Undid the fascia bolts, pulled it forward, undid the blower bolts and pulled it back out. Put the bracket in and reassembled it all. Not too bad but really annoying! Then it started to rain cats and dogs so another day lost.
German Grüner
Offroader
Prior to mount carpet i spray the whole floor with furniture wax. This is an attempt to make you undo carpets for a second time, jaja!
Regards
Regards
Well, after having to take the blower back out and fit the mounting bracket I'd forgotten about, I did manage to get it all back in place. It was then put he driver's side back together, carpets in,centre console, and seats. I just cracked on and didn't take photos as to paraphrase the words of well known workshop manuals, refitting is the reverse process.
It now looks like this ...
I put the battery back in and it started first crank. Next on the list was to refit the wipers and check parking position. Unfortunately there's something amiss here as they will not park level without first going down over the bottom screen seal before coming back up and parking. I already had this problem before I started this tranche of repairs, I had hoped that I'd remedied this by adjusting the position of the wiper mechanism. I had replaced the wiper motor and it's been like this ever since. Not sure why?
Next job on the list was the rear passenger door lock which wasn't opening by the handle.
It was necessary to strip the door down ...
... and remove the frame and glass to give room to access the latch
I was then able to relocate the control rod that had come adrift of the latch.
I did try for a couple of hours to get this rod/link back in place with the glass in place but found it impossible. It was easy once I could get my hand down inside and push the rod back into the holder.
Unfortunately, it seems that when lowering the glass in order to unbolt it from the regulator, I've gone and blown up the IDM or BCU.
It now looks like this ...
I put the battery back in and it started first crank. Next on the list was to refit the wipers and check parking position. Unfortunately there's something amiss here as they will not park level without first going down over the bottom screen seal before coming back up and parking. I already had this problem before I started this tranche of repairs, I had hoped that I'd remedied this by adjusting the position of the wiper mechanism. I had replaced the wiper motor and it's been like this ever since. Not sure why?
Next job on the list was the rear passenger door lock which wasn't opening by the handle.
It was necessary to strip the door down ...
... and remove the frame and glass to give room to access the latch
I was then able to relocate the control rod that had come adrift of the latch.
I did try for a couple of hours to get this rod/link back in place with the glass in place but found it impossible. It was easy once I could get my hand down inside and push the rod back into the holder.
Unfortunately, it seems that when lowering the glass in order to unbolt it from the regulator, I've gone and blown up the IDM or BCU.
I am mega impressed! Well done Cliff. Takes some doing to get it all back together and work first turn of the key
Thanks bud, shame it's all gone to $*%& though. I have now have the struck through B displayed on the instrument cluster. IDM to BCU communication problem is the likely cause. Only way to rule out either is to replace the part. Seems I'll have to splash out for a replacement passenger compartment fusebox just to rule it out.I am mega impressed! Well done Cliff. Takes some doing to get it all back together and work first turn of the key
If you can wait a week or two - I'll start pulling mine to bits - happy to send it your way for postage costs + beerThanks bud, shame it's all gone to $*%& though. I have now have the struck through B displayed on the instrument cluster. IDM to BCU communication problem is the likely cause. Only way to rule out either is to replace the part. Seems I'll have to splash out for a replacement passenger compartment fusebox just to rule it out.
I've been discussing IDM/BCU problem in a thread elsewhere so have copied it here for completeness.
[quote="Urban Panzer" post_id=795550 time=1664123689 user_id=25]
have we tried to disconnect the battery (ensuring it is disarmed and you KNOW your EKA code just incase,
then reconnect and switch on ignition to pos 2 (do NOT start) and leave for 5-10 mins, see if it begins to re-communicate.
[/quote]
I decided to double check this today. Battery has been disconnected since Saturday, I reconnected it and checked lock operation with the key fob, all working fine. Opened door, inserted key and turned to Pos 2, I then waited 5 mins. When I checked the instrument LCD, the B was back! I can only conclude from this that the fault is a communication error between the IDM and BCU.
Phoned Paul (Heathy Discovery 2 Parts) but no answer, so while I waited for him I whipped out the Fusebox and took it apart.
Checked all the fuses were good first, then removed the covers
There were signs of previous water ingress (I've just spent ages eradicating rain water ingress paths)
here ...
... and here
The IDM board itself looked fine
Obviously, I was only able to make a visual inspection, I used a lupe to hunt for dry solder joints, and gave the water corrosion areas a thorough clean with isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds.
I put it all back together and reinstalled it. Reconnected battery and as expected, the fault was still there. Paul answered the phone at this point and I have replacement IDM Fusebox and BCU on their way.
Fingers crossed the fault will be fixed when I replace the fusebox.
[quote="Urban Panzer" post_id=795550 time=1664123689 user_id=25]
have we tried to disconnect the battery (ensuring it is disarmed and you KNOW your EKA code just incase,
then reconnect and switch on ignition to pos 2 (do NOT start) and leave for 5-10 mins, see if it begins to re-communicate.
[/quote]
I decided to double check this today. Battery has been disconnected since Saturday, I reconnected it and checked lock operation with the key fob, all working fine. Opened door, inserted key and turned to Pos 2, I then waited 5 mins. When I checked the instrument LCD, the B was back! I can only conclude from this that the fault is a communication error between the IDM and BCU.
Phoned Paul (Heathy Discovery 2 Parts) but no answer, so while I waited for him I whipped out the Fusebox and took it apart.
Checked all the fuses were good first, then removed the covers
There were signs of previous water ingress (I've just spent ages eradicating rain water ingress paths)
here ...
... and here
The IDM board itself looked fine
Obviously, I was only able to make a visual inspection, I used a lupe to hunt for dry solder joints, and gave the water corrosion areas a thorough clean with isopropyl alcohol and cotton buds.
I put it all back together and reinstalled it. Reconnected battery and as expected, the fault was still there. Paul answered the phone at this point and I have replacement IDM Fusebox and BCU on their way.
Fingers crossed the fault will be fixed when I replace the fusebox.
I replaced the fusebox but it made no difference, the fault persists! Must be the BCU then.
Expecting the worse I already bought another BCU so quickly fitted it. The B disappeared and obviously it was indeed the BCU at fault. The first thing that now needed to be done was to re-programme the key codes. This was simple enough and the codes that I had recorded from the old BCU were duly entered. This is where things went awry and the immobiliser came on. The key fob wasn't being recognised, and to add insult to injury, the EKA procedure wouldn't work at all either. To say I was fed up and p****d off would be an understatement. I was scratching my head as it didn't make sense. The key codes were in and accepted, but the key wasn't being detected. I had gone through all of the BCU settings with my Nanocom and everything was configured as it needed to be, I could run the RF test and the fob was detected by the RF receiver, but not by the BCU. I did the ECM security code learn, but the immobiliser stayed on. Next thing I did was to disconnect the battery and go have lunch.
After lunch, swapped for fully charged up battery and for a brief moment, I thought things had resolved themselves as the immobiliser was off! However, it was short lived relief as it came straight back on again. Did some swotting up with RAVE and was beginning to think I'd been sold a dodgy BCU. Surely not?
About to throw in the towel I had one last look at things. Opened the key fob to check the code but it matched what I'd entered perfectly. Then I dawned on me, I was using the key recorded on position 2 but I had synced the code on position 1 Doh! No wonder it didn't detect it. I synced key code 1 and then did the detect and viola, at last, it recognised it and the immobiliser switched off. I now have it back as it was with the fob locking and unlocking. I turned off the seatbelt warning so those annoying 6 bongs have stopped and it all looks to be hunky dory. I don't want to jinx things as I have to check and test all the lights, locks, windows, etc., but hopefully all sorted.
I'm too relieved at the minute to ponder what a plonker I was with the key code programming.
Expecting the worse I already bought another BCU so quickly fitted it. The B disappeared and obviously it was indeed the BCU at fault. The first thing that now needed to be done was to re-programme the key codes. This was simple enough and the codes that I had recorded from the old BCU were duly entered. This is where things went awry and the immobiliser came on. The key fob wasn't being recognised, and to add insult to injury, the EKA procedure wouldn't work at all either. To say I was fed up and p****d off would be an understatement. I was scratching my head as it didn't make sense. The key codes were in and accepted, but the key wasn't being detected. I had gone through all of the BCU settings with my Nanocom and everything was configured as it needed to be, I could run the RF test and the fob was detected by the RF receiver, but not by the BCU. I did the ECM security code learn, but the immobiliser stayed on. Next thing I did was to disconnect the battery and go have lunch.
After lunch, swapped for fully charged up battery and for a brief moment, I thought things had resolved themselves as the immobiliser was off! However, it was short lived relief as it came straight back on again. Did some swotting up with RAVE and was beginning to think I'd been sold a dodgy BCU. Surely not?
About to throw in the towel I had one last look at things. Opened the key fob to check the code but it matched what I'd entered perfectly. Then I dawned on me, I was using the key recorded on position 2 but I had synced the code on position 1 Doh! No wonder it didn't detect it. I synced key code 1 and then did the detect and viola, at last, it recognised it and the immobiliser switched off. I now have it back as it was with the fob locking and unlocking. I turned off the seatbelt warning so those annoying 6 bongs have stopped and it all looks to be hunky dory. I don't want to jinx things as I have to check and test all the lights, locks, windows, etc., but hopefully all sorted.
I'm too relieved at the minute to ponder what a plonker I was with the key code programming.
Having sorted the electronics problem, It's more or less ready to get back on the road, it just needs new wiper blades for MOT. However, while I have it on SORN for repairs, I might as well do as much as I can. Took delivery of a few new parts and had a sort through my spares box.
First off, fit the new wiper blades. I removed air intake panel and adjusted the wiper spindle assembly to correct a park position error, refitted and put the new blades on. Now good.
Removed top hose and coolant outlet from head ready to fit replacement outlet and hose.
Removed EGR valve (been on my list a long time) and fitted replacement pipe. Unfortunately, for the blanking plate fitting, I managed to shear one of the bolts on the exhaust manifold; I tried so hard not to as well. Now having to drill out the bolt and re-tap thread. This though is something of a challenge with the manifold in place as there's no room to get a drill into the space. I have managed to drill it with a flexible extension, but not sure how I'll get the tap in, and will the hole line up properly with the blanking plate when I've done? Fingers crossed as I really don't want to have to take the manifold off and risk shearing studs; the simple job could snowball even more than it already has.
I also purchased a new AC condenser but I think I'll wait up on fitting this and have the refrigerant emptied by a garage. I also need help (or I need to buy more tools) getting the gearbox fill and drain plugs undone so that I can change the MTF oil. Transfer box, engine oil and filters all changed
First off, fit the new wiper blades. I removed air intake panel and adjusted the wiper spindle assembly to correct a park position error, refitted and put the new blades on. Now good.
Removed top hose and coolant outlet from head ready to fit replacement outlet and hose.
Removed EGR valve (been on my list a long time) and fitted replacement pipe. Unfortunately, for the blanking plate fitting, I managed to shear one of the bolts on the exhaust manifold; I tried so hard not to as well. Now having to drill out the bolt and re-tap thread. This though is something of a challenge with the manifold in place as there's no room to get a drill into the space. I have managed to drill it with a flexible extension, but not sure how I'll get the tap in, and will the hole line up properly with the blanking plate when I've done? Fingers crossed as I really don't want to have to take the manifold off and risk shearing studs; the simple job could snowball even more than it already has.
I also purchased a new AC condenser but I think I'll wait up on fitting this and have the refrigerant emptied by a garage. I also need help (or I need to buy more tools) getting the gearbox fill and drain plugs undone so that I can change the MTF oil. Transfer box, engine oil and filters all changed