I'll bear that in mind. I'll check the starter relay first.
-
Welcome to the Land Rover UK Forums
You are currently viewing the site as a guest and some content may not be available to you.
Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Register Now
Cliff's Disco 2 thread
- Thread starter Cliff4WD
- Start date
German Grüner
Offroader
I had this trouble last winter, located 12v from starter relay and followed wiring harness : it goes direct from engine fusebox to starter, and simply touching connection nut there in starter, it started ok. I hope you will be so lucky, too, haha!
Once again, rain stopped play while I was testing. Fuses, Links, and the relay are all good and wouldn't crank when bridging the relay, so I've ordered a starter repair kit. I'll check for voltage drops when it's less cold and it's dry.
Panamacarrera
In Fourth Gear
I’m not sure if anybody has picked this up later in your post, Cliff, but ACE is very desirable for off-roading because, in low range, the system deactivates so the ARB does not interfere with axle articulation. With a fixed ARB the bar is trying to stop the axle moving from a position parallel to the chassis.
Panamacarrera
In Fourth Gear
Here’s a photo of my old D2 with ACE in a tricky cross-axle situation. With ACE deactivated the axles are free to move in their full range, with a fixed ARB, the bars would be working to lift the lower wheel on each axle (front left, rear right in the photo) so reducing traction.
Oh, and loving this story… I fear I might have similar work to do on my current D2…
Attachments
To try and keep the history record reasonably complete, I’ve copied most of this across from another thread.
Having left my vehicle sitting unused for a few weeks, and covered in snow, I thought it best to get it started and charged up. I should never have been so lazy as to leave it so long. First problem was getting in it since the lock handle was frozen and not budging. After overcoming that particular issue, rather predictably, when turning the ignition key to II, as well as the glow plug lamp coming on, so did the ORM/SLS lamps, so clearly the battery voltage was way low. Not cranking of course, so I switched to my aux battery only to find that although it had better charge, it was still too low to get the engine started. I turned off the Heater/AC unit before cranking so that I had nothing else drawing current when first cranking (not that it would make any difference).
I got my NOCO Genius battery charger connected to my batteries and put it on charge then set to work digging SWMBO's Astra out of its own snow tomb. After an hour and some, I checked to see if the Td5 would turn over; it did and fired up. Now, with the engine running (NOCO still connected), I pressed the 'on' button on the climate control module; nothing, it would not turn on. I tried a few times, but it wasn't coming on. Typical I thought, get it running to defrost the vehicle and the blinking heater stops working. I had a look at the electrical library and circuit diagrams but I wasn't seeing anything obvious (I was hoping for a fuse).
I'd left the engine running to warm up and still charging, so after another hour, I tried the heater again but still wouldn't switch on. I turned off the ignition and decided to leave it on charge and forget about it for now. However, I decided to turn the ignition key to Pos. II and try the heater again, and low and behold, it comes on: start the engine again and the on/off button doesn't work again.
I don't know what I've done to deserve it but the plot then thickened. A break in the weather allowed for a look at my problem. I checked and replaced F23 (and F20) in the passenger compartment fusebox; fuses both good. When I turned ignition to Pos.II, the instrument cluster lit up and the self-test completed, I could hear the fuel pump running and all seems normal. After the glow plug lamp went out, I turned key to Pos. III to crank and nothing; dead as anything! I could hear a faint click from behind the ignition barrel area but nothing else. Now I went to get my multi-meter only to discover that it's not working, and waste time trying to fix it to no avail, so no multi-meter available to check the relay. I had a quick look in the engine compartment fuse box and manually/visually checked the relays and fuses, but nothing visible. I then climbed underneath and made sure the Lucar spade connector was tight on the starter motor. Finally, I hauled out another battery and tried a jump start in case, but that didn't work either.
I was confused and now worried that I have another failed BCU. The fob locks/unlocks the vehicle, the heater blower is now working fine and the on/off button on the AC control working; it's just that dreaded dead/no crank issue. It started to rain again, and I was getting wet so I called it a day.
After a short delay, I went back out with a posh new multimeter and a relay bridging wire. The relay was good, I bridged the relay sockets on the fusebox but no crank. FL12, FL8 and all fuses good. Then would you believe it, it started to rain again. It was too cold and wet to be crawling around it so back in the warm. I put the battery back on charge for good measure. FYI, my battery tester passed battery as good, so looks like starter motor relay/solenoid issue I guess. I had already checked the Brown/Red wire to that spade connector but that was about all so far. Time to order a starter motor repair kit.
It was at this time that my Mum was taken into hospital where she was kept in over the New Year holiday, and having to stay up in London, and the constant rain and poor weather, I didn’t get a chance to deal with the cranking problem. I had the starter motor kit sat ready to fit, my new all singing and dancing multimeter ready for action, and the noco genius has been keeping the batteries topped up. But, finally, although still freezing cold, I was able to venture out to do the start relay voltage check; it's been nagging away at me that I might have a wiring issue and not the starter solenoid contacts causing my problem. Well would you Adam and Eve it, the key fob isn't working now! I opened the door with the key and put key in the ignition and of course, red led on constant and immobilised (not that it was cranking before anyway).
I give up! I've never had trouble with the RF receiver before or with my key fob, but while it's been sat for weeks with constant rain and cold, it's all gone very Pete Tong. I noticed that the roof was absolutely dripping wet with condensation
(my roof lining is off) so I'm guessing it's the RF receiver. I really couldn't be bothered to investigate further as I was both freezing cold and depressed.
When I next got out, I checked that voltage and it read 7V; what in heaven’s name is going on? Looks like a new fusebox then as this makes no sense (which will be easier to deal with than the starter motor at least). I will need a new RF receiver too as it fails the RF test. The condensation on the roof is so bad that there was a puddle of water on the dash.
No wonder the headliners fail the way they do.
After ordering the parts I needed from Heathy, I got back to work. Seems it was the starter all along. I’m really not sure what was going on with the odd voltage readings before though; I'm totally confused. Having ordered a new fusebox and RF receiver, I fitted the receiver (inside a rubber glove ) and that fixed the locking/immobiliser issue. Before fitting the new fusebox, I decided to check continuity from Battery +ve through to the 12V out (NR wire) that goes to the starter solenoid; it was open circuit. Now, I had checked the fuses and fuseable links when I first started trouble shooting this problem, so was confident that all fuses were good. This is what led me to conclude that my problem was with the contacts inside the starter and I ordered up a repair kit. Finding now that I had no continuity, I thought that this confirmed a fusebox internal problem with the path from The 12V input (the thick brown cable) through to the relay. However, this seemed a bit unlikely when looking at the box and so I re-tested the link fuse F13. Well, surprise surprise, the link fuse was OC! I'm clearly going mad as I'm sure it was OK when I tested it before. Suffice to say, I replaced it and restored continuity to the SM relay.
It was still dead when turning the key to crank, and bridging the relay still does nothing, but I now had 12V across the relay socket. Back where I started then with a suspect starter motor.
I got the starter out and tested it on the bench,
the solenoid operated fine when I hooked it up to a battery but the motor didn't run. I put 12V on the motor direct and it ran, so right back to the original prognosis of worn out contacts (the kit I ordered to begin with). Didn't take long to strip out the old pitted contacts, clean up, and fit the new kit.
The starter now runs fine.
Put it back in the vehicle and confirmed it now runs again. Cranked and started no bother.
I went for a test drive and it's running OK. Only thing is, where it's been sat in the cold and the rain, I now seem to have one front indicator lit up permanently and water dripping down inside from all that condensation.
BTW, getting to the top nut on the stud that holds the starter motor in place is one absolute bar steward of a job. There was no way I was able to get at it from underneath, I could barely get my hand anywhere near it. I had to go in from above with a very long extension, a cardan and 15mm socket. This worked to get it undone but I haven't been able to get it back on. There isn't enough clearance to get the socket in straight enough to start the nut on the thread.
After all of this anguish, I then worked out where I went wrong on this. The D2 TD5 Electrical library says Fusible Link FL 12 is for the starter relay and that would have been what I checked and found good. But when I was doing my continuity testing, I pulled FL13 and found it was blown. I now realise that I pulled FL13 as that is marked SM on the fusebox cover legend. I must have gone out to test it before after checking up the library and gone straight to FL12 and not realised I was testing the wrong link!
I now have a spare engine compartment fusebox
It was never going to be so simple though, I knew it was too soon to relax. Seems I still had an issue. I now had a problem where the fob only worked if I stood by the rear passenger door, held the key up against the glass and pointed the it directly at the receiver with the fob touching the glass; it had no range! The fob does work now with the replacement RF receiver whereas it wasn't working at all with the old one, but only up close as I've described. I had dried out the roof area and fitted some insulation as well as cleaning the bolt hole for the receiver earth, the bolts, and ensuring good earth contact before fitting the replacement receiver. Heathy is sending me another to fix the problem or at least rule out the receiver.
I hadn't realised until looking closer that I actually have the RF receiver with 3 wire connector, i.e., an earth wire, so I'm not clear if the bolt to roof earth is actually relevant: Fed up now.
Paul (Heathy) made sure a replacement was with me the following morning. After fitting it, all was good again. I can stand across the street in my neighbour’s garden now and the fob works fine.
A long and very annoying problem to diagnose and put right, yet one that should have been very simple. Something just doesn’t make any sense though, and that is how could I possibly have gotten a reading of 7V across the starter relay socket if the fusible link was blown? Voltage coming back from the starter somehow? And why then did I get 0V next time I checked it? A mystery.
Having left my vehicle sitting unused for a few weeks, and covered in snow, I thought it best to get it started and charged up. I should never have been so lazy as to leave it so long. First problem was getting in it since the lock handle was frozen and not budging. After overcoming that particular issue, rather predictably, when turning the ignition key to II, as well as the glow plug lamp coming on, so did the ORM/SLS lamps, so clearly the battery voltage was way low. Not cranking of course, so I switched to my aux battery only to find that although it had better charge, it was still too low to get the engine started. I turned off the Heater/AC unit before cranking so that I had nothing else drawing current when first cranking (not that it would make any difference).
I got my NOCO Genius battery charger connected to my batteries and put it on charge then set to work digging SWMBO's Astra out of its own snow tomb. After an hour and some, I checked to see if the Td5 would turn over; it did and fired up. Now, with the engine running (NOCO still connected), I pressed the 'on' button on the climate control module; nothing, it would not turn on. I tried a few times, but it wasn't coming on. Typical I thought, get it running to defrost the vehicle and the blinking heater stops working. I had a look at the electrical library and circuit diagrams but I wasn't seeing anything obvious (I was hoping for a fuse).
I'd left the engine running to warm up and still charging, so after another hour, I tried the heater again but still wouldn't switch on. I turned off the ignition and decided to leave it on charge and forget about it for now. However, I decided to turn the ignition key to Pos. II and try the heater again, and low and behold, it comes on: start the engine again and the on/off button doesn't work again.
I don't know what I've done to deserve it but the plot then thickened. A break in the weather allowed for a look at my problem. I checked and replaced F23 (and F20) in the passenger compartment fusebox; fuses both good. When I turned ignition to Pos.II, the instrument cluster lit up and the self-test completed, I could hear the fuel pump running and all seems normal. After the glow plug lamp went out, I turned key to Pos. III to crank and nothing; dead as anything! I could hear a faint click from behind the ignition barrel area but nothing else. Now I went to get my multi-meter only to discover that it's not working, and waste time trying to fix it to no avail, so no multi-meter available to check the relay. I had a quick look in the engine compartment fuse box and manually/visually checked the relays and fuses, but nothing visible. I then climbed underneath and made sure the Lucar spade connector was tight on the starter motor. Finally, I hauled out another battery and tried a jump start in case, but that didn't work either.
I was confused and now worried that I have another failed BCU. The fob locks/unlocks the vehicle, the heater blower is now working fine and the on/off button on the AC control working; it's just that dreaded dead/no crank issue. It started to rain again, and I was getting wet so I called it a day.
After a short delay, I went back out with a posh new multimeter and a relay bridging wire. The relay was good, I bridged the relay sockets on the fusebox but no crank. FL12, FL8 and all fuses good. Then would you believe it, it started to rain again. It was too cold and wet to be crawling around it so back in the warm. I put the battery back on charge for good measure. FYI, my battery tester passed battery as good, so looks like starter motor relay/solenoid issue I guess. I had already checked the Brown/Red wire to that spade connector but that was about all so far. Time to order a starter motor repair kit.
It was at this time that my Mum was taken into hospital where she was kept in over the New Year holiday, and having to stay up in London, and the constant rain and poor weather, I didn’t get a chance to deal with the cranking problem. I had the starter motor kit sat ready to fit, my new all singing and dancing multimeter ready for action, and the noco genius has been keeping the batteries topped up. But, finally, although still freezing cold, I was able to venture out to do the start relay voltage check; it's been nagging away at me that I might have a wiring issue and not the starter solenoid contacts causing my problem. Well would you Adam and Eve it, the key fob isn't working now! I opened the door with the key and put key in the ignition and of course, red led on constant and immobilised (not that it was cranking before anyway).
I give up! I've never had trouble with the RF receiver before or with my key fob, but while it's been sat for weeks with constant rain and cold, it's all gone very Pete Tong. I noticed that the roof was absolutely dripping wet with condensation
(my roof lining is off) so I'm guessing it's the RF receiver. I really couldn't be bothered to investigate further as I was both freezing cold and depressed.
When I next got out, I checked that voltage and it read 7V; what in heaven’s name is going on? Looks like a new fusebox then as this makes no sense (which will be easier to deal with than the starter motor at least). I will need a new RF receiver too as it fails the RF test. The condensation on the roof is so bad that there was a puddle of water on the dash.
No wonder the headliners fail the way they do.
After ordering the parts I needed from Heathy, I got back to work. Seems it was the starter all along. I’m really not sure what was going on with the odd voltage readings before though; I'm totally confused. Having ordered a new fusebox and RF receiver, I fitted the receiver (inside a rubber glove ) and that fixed the locking/immobiliser issue. Before fitting the new fusebox, I decided to check continuity from Battery +ve through to the 12V out (NR wire) that goes to the starter solenoid; it was open circuit. Now, I had checked the fuses and fuseable links when I first started trouble shooting this problem, so was confident that all fuses were good. This is what led me to conclude that my problem was with the contacts inside the starter and I ordered up a repair kit. Finding now that I had no continuity, I thought that this confirmed a fusebox internal problem with the path from The 12V input (the thick brown cable) through to the relay. However, this seemed a bit unlikely when looking at the box and so I re-tested the link fuse F13. Well, surprise surprise, the link fuse was OC! I'm clearly going mad as I'm sure it was OK when I tested it before. Suffice to say, I replaced it and restored continuity to the SM relay.
It was still dead when turning the key to crank, and bridging the relay still does nothing, but I now had 12V across the relay socket. Back where I started then with a suspect starter motor.
I got the starter out and tested it on the bench,
the solenoid operated fine when I hooked it up to a battery but the motor didn't run. I put 12V on the motor direct and it ran, so right back to the original prognosis of worn out contacts (the kit I ordered to begin with). Didn't take long to strip out the old pitted contacts, clean up, and fit the new kit.
The starter now runs fine.
Put it back in the vehicle and confirmed it now runs again. Cranked and started no bother.
I went for a test drive and it's running OK. Only thing is, where it's been sat in the cold and the rain, I now seem to have one front indicator lit up permanently and water dripping down inside from all that condensation.
BTW, getting to the top nut on the stud that holds the starter motor in place is one absolute bar steward of a job. There was no way I was able to get at it from underneath, I could barely get my hand anywhere near it. I had to go in from above with a very long extension, a cardan and 15mm socket. This worked to get it undone but I haven't been able to get it back on. There isn't enough clearance to get the socket in straight enough to start the nut on the thread.
After all of this anguish, I then worked out where I went wrong on this. The D2 TD5 Electrical library says Fusible Link FL 12 is for the starter relay and that would have been what I checked and found good. But when I was doing my continuity testing, I pulled FL13 and found it was blown. I now realise that I pulled FL13 as that is marked SM on the fusebox cover legend. I must have gone out to test it before after checking up the library and gone straight to FL12 and not realised I was testing the wrong link!
I now have a spare engine compartment fusebox
It was never going to be so simple though, I knew it was too soon to relax. Seems I still had an issue. I now had a problem where the fob only worked if I stood by the rear passenger door, held the key up against the glass and pointed the it directly at the receiver with the fob touching the glass; it had no range! The fob does work now with the replacement RF receiver whereas it wasn't working at all with the old one, but only up close as I've described. I had dried out the roof area and fitted some insulation as well as cleaning the bolt hole for the receiver earth, the bolts, and ensuring good earth contact before fitting the replacement receiver. Heathy is sending me another to fix the problem or at least rule out the receiver.
I hadn't realised until looking closer that I actually have the RF receiver with 3 wire connector, i.e., an earth wire, so I'm not clear if the bolt to roof earth is actually relevant: Fed up now.
Paul (Heathy) made sure a replacement was with me the following morning. After fitting it, all was good again. I can stand across the street in my neighbour’s garden now and the fob works fine.
A long and very annoying problem to diagnose and put right, yet one that should have been very simple. Something just doesn’t make any sense though, and that is how could I possibly have gotten a reading of 7V across the starter relay socket if the fusible link was blown? Voltage coming back from the starter somehow? And why then did I get 0V next time I checked it? A mystery.
It's not the end of the story.
After I had it all fixed, I went out and did about 12 miles and it ran fine. Went to go out in it next day and blow me, it’s struggling to start. It now seems that I have a fuelling issue. I cranked away with no joy, it wouldn’t fire up. Tried to purge and the fuel pump is silent. A few more cranks and it fires and then runs. I took it and filled up the tank as I thought this might be due to sitting near empty on my sloped driveway. Started again fine at the pump after filling and went for another run of about 12 miles. Again it drove fine. I recorded an inputs fuelling live data file on the run back home and that isn’t showing anything amiss. No fault codes logged either, so I thought that it was just the lack of fuel in the tank. However, today I tried again and same problem, turning over but not starting. Now I’m not a big believer in sequential coincidences (if you get what I mean), so something is very wrong somewhere.
What by removing and refitting the starter motor could I have disturbed that would effect the fuel delivery?
After I had it all fixed, I went out and did about 12 miles and it ran fine. Went to go out in it next day and blow me, it’s struggling to start. It now seems that I have a fuelling issue. I cranked away with no joy, it wouldn’t fire up. Tried to purge and the fuel pump is silent. A few more cranks and it fires and then runs. I took it and filled up the tank as I thought this might be due to sitting near empty on my sloped driveway. Started again fine at the pump after filling and went for another run of about 12 miles. Again it drove fine. I recorded an inputs fuelling live data file on the run back home and that isn’t showing anything amiss. No fault codes logged either, so I thought that it was just the lack of fuel in the tank. However, today I tried again and same problem, turning over but not starting. Now I’m not a big believer in sequential coincidences (if you get what I mean), so something is very wrong somewhere.
What by removing and refitting the starter motor could I have disturbed that would effect the fuel delivery?
I think that the problem I have now is likely to be fuelling, as I don't hear my fuel pump running like it should be. I'm also wondering about that fusebox again as the fuel pump relay is right next to the starter relay. I can't face the cold and damp today after the heavy frost last night, so I'll have to check it out again when things warm up. What I don't get is how the engine starts at all and then runs if there's a problem with the relay/12V supply; how can fuel be getting to the engine if the pump isn't running? I remember @sierrafery on D2BC posting a pump testing procedure and saying that the engine can still run on LP if the HP feed fails. I'll have to give this a try and see what it reveals. Apparantly I should be seeing c. 23mV across the relay fuse F10 if the HP pump is running. I was also wondering if I could have the problem with diesel bug. It was all clean and tidy and I had already replaced my pump with an expensive Valeo one, but the fuel in the tank has been sat in there for over a year what with all the fun and games. Typical now that I have the pump hidden beneath the commercial floor I fitted. Maybe I'll be able to "dip" the tank somehow although I think there must be some anti-syphon protection in the filler.
You have to be very sceptical to not believe that this run of faults are not all related. Why would it crank and start then fail to crank at all, need the starter motor to be repaired, blow a fusible link, have the RF receiver fail, crank and start fine once fuse and starter fixed, then crank and not start due to what looks like fuel starvation? I'm thinking this has to be all electrical and inter-related. I'll update when I can.
You have to be very sceptical to not believe that this run of faults are not all related. Why would it crank and start then fail to crank at all, need the starter motor to be repaired, blow a fusible link, have the RF receiver fail, crank and start fine once fuse and starter fixed, then crank and not start due to what looks like fuel starvation? I'm thinking this has to be all electrical and inter-related. I'll update when I can.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https:...AAogQsDwItQY&usg=AOvVaw3rT54z9soEJVxURJU2Y80n
I have a similar problem with my Disco 2 as far as condensation is concerned. First of all the rear sunroof leaks a bit (and probably so does the front one) and, secondly, the back is always full of wet dog. Consequently, in the winter it never gets to dry out. It affected the car by making the radio play up. It would switch on only when the engine wasn't running and then, if the engine was running, it wouldn't switch off again. So I read on another forum about these dessicants. I bought a pair and have put them in the car. Certainly, it is now perfectly dry inside (though the humidity here has been lower than it was which will have helped) so I'm pleased so far. They can be dried out - there is an indicator on them which turns from blue to pink when they need drying out which can be done in the microwave, oven or left to dry naturally (NB this does not apply to customers in Wales). They're cheap enough to be worth a try anyway you might find they help.
I have a similar problem with my Disco 2 as far as condensation is concerned. First of all the rear sunroof leaks a bit (and probably so does the front one) and, secondly, the back is always full of wet dog. Consequently, in the winter it never gets to dry out. It affected the car by making the radio play up. It would switch on only when the engine wasn't running and then, if the engine was running, it wouldn't switch off again. So I read on another forum about these dessicants. I bought a pair and have put them in the car. Certainly, it is now perfectly dry inside (though the humidity here has been lower than it was which will have helped) so I'm pleased so far. They can be dried out - there is an indicator on them which turns from blue to pink when they need drying out which can be done in the microwave, oven or left to dry naturally (NB this does not apply to customers in Wales). They're cheap enough to be worth a try anyway you might find they help.
I checked my fuel pump is working OK; I get 23.9mV across F10, so the HP pump is drawing current. I also had a proper listen with the purge sequence running and I do hear the pump running and no cavitation squelching noises, so I'm assuming pump OK and therefore, fuel delivery to FPR OK. It's parked facing down my sloped drive so fuel shouldn't be draining back to the filter. Air leaking could be an issue but I'm not hearing it and I did injector seals not so many miles ago. I'm now thinking it's maybe not a fuelling problem. The live data file analysis I did show a healthy running TD5 (no performance degradation), so I'm now thinking it must have something to do with the last thing I messed with, i.e., the starter motor. After a bit of trawling through old posts I found this:
What do you think; could it be? You all said that top nut wasn't an issue, or have I just got a dodgy starter motor that isn't turning the engine over fast enough? I replaced the starter solenoid contacts kit but I didn't mess with the motor itself. Trouble with this theory is the problem is on first starting after being parked overnight; it starts again OK once it's been run a while.
deadbeatdad post_id=784711 time=1625936104 user_id=42 said:
What do you think; could it be? You all said that top nut wasn't an issue, or have I just got a dodgy starter motor that isn't turning the engine over fast enough? I replaced the starter solenoid contacts kit but I didn't mess with the motor itself. Trouble with this theory is the problem is on first starting after being parked overnight; it starts again OK once it's been run a while.
*******NEWSFLASH*******
After checking the starter on crank was only giving me 167rpm, I bit the bullet and ordered a new Denso starter motor.
New starter motor fitted this morning and all sorted. Cranks and starts first turn. Hallelujah ! :biggrin:
After checking the starter on crank was only giving me 167rpm, I bit the bullet and ordered a new Denso starter motor.
New starter motor fitted this morning and all sorted. Cranks and starts first turn. Hallelujah ! :biggrin:
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Good man. I had to go for a Denso too to sort out Miffys TD5. The cheaper version was soooooo noisy electrically it overwhelmed the crank positioning signal and the engine just turned and turned and turned..... Denso sorted that problem out.
After having sorted the starting problem, I took it out for a test drive only to find that I was experiencing some misfiring. The fault code logged was turbo overboosting. I thought about what might actually be going on and decided to whip out the ECM and give the notorious red connector a good clean. There was a bit of oil there so gave it a thorough clean and then went for another test drive. All seemed to be fine again on the drive. I haven't really been anywhere in it much since, but all seemed to be good now. Thing is, with the Nanocom, it reports fault codes it interprets from sensor inputs, so bad connections can result in all manner of different fault codes being logged. However, driving it, there is the feel that one has for the usual running performance, and anything odd or unusual also logs a fault code in the driver's brain; in my mind the "missed" strokes while accelerating uphill were the heart sinking misfire type. I had removed the EGR valve and tightened up the small air hose in my turbo wastegate setup, so what with the nanocom code, I did think it was an overboost issue; however, this reminded me of similar behaviour I experienced with a poor ECM connection, and so that's where I looked first. I did hope that when I do got to go on a longer run somewhere, that it was actually fixed and not something else going on, although I have already just about dealt with everything else it might be. Keeping 20+ year old vehicles running does require a lot of ongoing maintenance.
This weekend, after another quick outing I again experienced misfiring under acceleration. Nanocom has logged turbo overboost again so I guess that's exactly the problem then. This issue only appeared after I removed the EGR valve, so it makes complete sense that I'm getting too much boost under heavy acceleration now that there is no exhaust gas bleed off to the EGR. In my case, I have a Forge Wastegate actuator fitted, and the airflow to the modulator passing through a Mumby boost controller ...
... so It's probably not too surprising that the max boost will have been affected by the EGR removal and manifold blanking. I had also tightened up the clips on the air lines connecting the control valve, so this could have been leaking air previously.
Simple task then to turn back the boost with the control valve. I did this today and the test drive seemed pretty good; It just nudged past 230kpa after a long full throttle hill climb, so one more turn back. Now all seems fine again. Fingers crossed that I've got this right and it's not fuelling/injector trouble.
I was looking for a genuine new injector harness in case it was this causing the problem and seems they are no longer available! This is not good news for a part we have pretty much been considering a service item.
I did give the fuel tank a shock dose of biocide too in case of diesel bug since I'm not doing much mileage.
This weekend, after another quick outing I again experienced misfiring under acceleration. Nanocom has logged turbo overboost again so I guess that's exactly the problem then. This issue only appeared after I removed the EGR valve, so it makes complete sense that I'm getting too much boost under heavy acceleration now that there is no exhaust gas bleed off to the EGR. In my case, I have a Forge Wastegate actuator fitted, and the airflow to the modulator passing through a Mumby boost controller ...
... so It's probably not too surprising that the max boost will have been affected by the EGR removal and manifold blanking. I had also tightened up the clips on the air lines connecting the control valve, so this could have been leaking air previously.
Simple task then to turn back the boost with the control valve. I did this today and the test drive seemed pretty good; It just nudged past 230kpa after a long full throttle hill climb, so one more turn back. Now all seems fine again. Fingers crossed that I've got this right and it's not fuelling/injector trouble.
I was looking for a genuine new injector harness in case it was this causing the problem and seems they are no longer available! This is not good news for a part we have pretty much been considering a service item.
I did give the fuel tank a shock dose of biocide too in case of diesel bug since I'm not doing much mileage.
I'm unhappy 
Yesterday, when I locked the vehicle, I pressed the fob and it all locked fine, apart from that is, the driver's door. The toggle didn't go down. I tried a few times, but no go, so had to use the key to lock it. Oh joy!
Today was a 140 mile round trip to see my mum. The outbound drive was going very well, the engine was accelerating nicely and revs going up to 4000rpm, so a nifty pull away through 1st and 2nd and quickly up to motorway speed, a good steady 70 and maintaining it on the long uphill slow lane section, so looks like my adjustment for the turbo wastegate actuation has worked well.
I got up to the junction I needed to exit at and confused myself which exit to then take from the roundabout at the bottom of the slip road, so I went around it for a second try. Quite out of the blue, the dash lit up and the dastardly little amigos made a visit; damn!
Coming back, with the amigos glowing bright, and as If this wasn't enough, the engine started to struggle and was not accelerating well anymore. I couldn't get it up to, and certainly not beyond, 3000 rpm. Top speed with throttle to the floor was now a slow slow rise to 70 mph.
The question now, is do I have the patience or the tenacity anymore to deal with this continuous drain on my peace of mind.
Oh BTW, when I eventually arrived home after sitting in a 40 minute traffic jam (both lanes nose to tail at a standstill on the dual carriagway, continued on the single lane road it feeds into because of a roadworks traffic light! No roadworks mind you.), I pressed the fob and the driver's door locked!
Yesterday, when I locked the vehicle, I pressed the fob and it all locked fine, apart from that is, the driver's door. The toggle didn't go down. I tried a few times, but no go, so had to use the key to lock it. Oh joy!
Today was a 140 mile round trip to see my mum. The outbound drive was going very well, the engine was accelerating nicely and revs going up to 4000rpm, so a nifty pull away through 1st and 2nd and quickly up to motorway speed, a good steady 70 and maintaining it on the long uphill slow lane section, so looks like my adjustment for the turbo wastegate actuation has worked well.
I got up to the junction I needed to exit at and confused myself which exit to then take from the roundabout at the bottom of the slip road, so I went around it for a second try. Quite out of the blue, the dash lit up and the dastardly little amigos made a visit; damn!
Coming back, with the amigos glowing bright, and as If this wasn't enough, the engine started to struggle and was not accelerating well anymore. I couldn't get it up to, and certainly not beyond, 3000 rpm. Top speed with throttle to the floor was now a slow slow rise to 70 mph.
The question now, is do I have the patience or the tenacity anymore to deal with this continuous drain on my peace of mind.
Oh BTW, when I eventually arrived home after sitting in a 40 minute traffic jam (both lanes nose to tail at a standstill on the dual carriagway, continued on the single lane road it feeds into because of a roadworks traffic light! No roadworks mind you.
), I pressed the fob and the driver's door locked! 
We all get to that stage occasionally...
You know you will...
Actually got around to fitting a new front hub this week. I decided that I might just as well replace the hub rather than faff about trying to mess with the sensor. To get to the sensor I'd have to have it up on stands, wheel off, caliper off, etc., road test it, then do it all again if that didn't fix the problem, so replace the hub it was. I had the usual battle with the hub nut but managed to win (all this time I've been suggesting people get a torque multiplier only to find mine wouldn't reach the nut and anchor against a wheel nut), I used extension on my breaker bar and prayed the bar wouldn't snap! A lot of back and forth with the wheel to access the caliper and hub bolts, but eventually got it all off and swapped over.
The hub had been replaced before and the service bulletin followed where the wabco sensor was wired direct to the SLABS ECU (Urban Panzer wrote this up on his website as he had the same issue), this is a pain as the sensor has to be removed from the hub whenever removing the half-shaft and hub, I really wanted to reinstate the connector inside the engine compartment (C0516 I think it is). I did the same as Panzer and cut the old sensor cable in the passenger footwell and solder joined the SLABS connector end to the old and previously cut connector cable, heat shrink wrapped and tape wrapped for good measure. It was then back on with the wheel, etc., and delete the fault code with my Nanocom. A quick drive down the lane and back with a bit of ignition on and off, and the 3 amigos were gone.
I took it out for a more extensive test drive and recorded some livedata; all seemed good. It drove very nicely and felt pretty good. On closer inspection of the old hub, I don't think there's anything wrong with it apart from the surface rust from use. The sensor cable however has clearly been chafed, and a small exposed section of the conducting cable is visible. I'm assuming that this was shorting on the steering knuckle and was the cause of the problem. My fault as I obviously hadn't correctly and securely located the cable when I put it all back together after last year's ball joint repairs.
I still have an intermittent drivers door lock problem to fix. This is weird as sometimes I hit the fob to lock and all the door locks operate yet the driver's lock stays open; other times it locks. I guess it must be sticking, so a mechanical problem. I have a genuine LR lock assy ready to fit if it's the problem but I'll have to have the door apart first to find out.
The hub had been replaced before and the service bulletin followed where the wabco sensor was wired direct to the SLABS ECU (Urban Panzer wrote this up on his website as he had the same issue), this is a pain as the sensor has to be removed from the hub whenever removing the half-shaft and hub, I really wanted to reinstate the connector inside the engine compartment (C0516 I think it is). I did the same as Panzer and cut the old sensor cable in the passenger footwell and solder joined the SLABS connector end to the old and previously cut connector cable, heat shrink wrapped and tape wrapped for good measure. It was then back on with the wheel, etc., and delete the fault code with my Nanocom. A quick drive down the lane and back with a bit of ignition on and off, and the 3 amigos were gone.
I took it out for a more extensive test drive and recorded some livedata; all seemed good. It drove very nicely and felt pretty good. On closer inspection of the old hub, I don't think there's anything wrong with it apart from the surface rust from use. The sensor cable however has clearly been chafed, and a small exposed section of the conducting cable is visible. I'm assuming that this was shorting on the steering knuckle and was the cause of the problem. My fault as I obviously hadn't correctly and securely located the cable when I put it all back together after last year's ball joint repairs.
I still have an intermittent drivers door lock problem to fix. This is weird as sometimes I hit the fob to lock and all the door locks operate yet the driver's lock stays open; other times it locks. I guess it must be sticking, so a mechanical problem. I have a genuine LR lock assy ready to fit if it's the problem but I'll have to have the door apart first to find out.
Took it for MOT and spectacular FAIL. Rear trailing arm front bushes are coming out. Had a good look while up on the ramp and pretty much all of the bushes are now perishing, that's the thing with 23 year old rubber. Sigh!
There was a break in the weather today, well on and off anyway, so I made a start on the rear radius arms. 3 Bolts a side, but not so easy to access or undo on the drive.
I won't bore you with the pain and suffering experienced in getting the bolts undone, but I have to say I'm past all this crawling around on cold ground. Anyway, managed to free up and remove the first one.
See how the front bush is pushing its way out
The rear pair are original and showing signs of rubber perishing, but actually look pretty good by comparison
It was this point that the heavens opened up again and the light was failing, so the nearside arm will have to wait till it's dry again.
There was a break in the weather today, well on and off anyway, so I made a start on the rear radius arms. 3 Bolts a side, but not so easy to access or undo on the drive.
I won't bore you with the pain and suffering experienced in getting the bolts undone, but I have to say I'm past all this crawling around on cold ground. Anyway, managed to free up and remove the first one.
See how the front bush is pushing its way out
The rear pair are original and showing signs of rubber perishing, but actually look pretty good by comparison
It was this point that the heavens opened up again and the light was failing, so the nearside arm will have to wait till it's dry again.
Good job Cliff …I think you have had your money’s worth out of the bushes .Took it for MOT and spectacular FAIL. Rear trailing arm front bushes are coming out. Had a good look while up on the ramp and pretty much all of the bushes are now perishing, that's the thing with 23 year old rubber. Sigh!
There was a break in the weather today, well on and off anyway, so I made a start on the rear radius arms. 3 Bolts a side, but not so easy to access or undo on the drive.
View attachment 437919
I won't bore you with the pain and suffering experienced in getting the bolts undone, but I have to say I'm past all this crawling around on cold ground. Anyway, managed to free up and remove the first one.
View attachment 437920
See how the front bush is pushing its way out
View attachment 437921
View attachment 437922
The rear pair are original and showing signs of rubber perishing, but actually look pretty good by comparison
View attachment 437923
It was this point that the heavens opened up again and the light was failing, so the nearside arm will have to wait till it's dry again.
Geobloke
Posting Guru
Yup those bushes owe you nothing.
What I wouldn't give for a dry paved surface to work on. Pure luxury that....
Having gotten both arms off of the vehicle, it was now time to replace those fubar bushings. Since the rubber had already parted company with the outer casing, it was a simple matter of knocking it all the way out with the 'persuader'. It was then the cut, chisel, and hammer method to knock out the old casing. It was then cleanup time.
The more challenging task is pressing the new bushing in. I don’t have a press and my G clamp kit isn't deep enough. Fortunately I have my hydraulic bearing puller so a bit of the old 'adapt and overcome' came into play.
It actually took quite a while and some effort to slowly press the bushing home, but I got there eventually. Next job was a quick lick of zinc rich primer.
The new bushing looks lovely
Now to do it all again on the other one.
The more challenging task is pressing the new bushing in. I don’t have a press and my G clamp kit isn't deep enough. Fortunately I have my hydraulic bearing puller so a bit of the old 'adapt and overcome' came into play.
It actually took quite a while and some effort to slowly press the bushing home, but I got there eventually. Next job was a quick lick of zinc rich primer.
The new bushing looks lovely
Now to do it all again on the other one.