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L322, transfer box neutral

J

joc44

Shifting Up
HI,
range rover vogue 2006 td6,
after a sort time i get message on the dash.
TRANSFER BOX NEUTRAL the car will drive fine with no problems,
goes up and down the gears fine, some times the LOW GEAR light (green mountain) will flash as well.
the transfer box diagnostics have been looked at and it reads,
5223 NOISE ON ACTUATOR SIGNAL.

some good guidance and knowledge would be appreciated.
 
HI, BEMBLE.
i do on that to put fuse 37 in is to move the car when it needs a tow,
how do you RECALIBRATE the transfer box.
 
This is the re-calibration method :

ShiftMotorCalibration.jpg


However, if your rotary potentiometer is faulty, there's a small possibility that exercising the shift motor in this way may cause it to get stuck in Neutral or Low Range. The potentiometer voltage is the only feedback that the NV225 transfer box ECU receives to tell it where the shift fork/rail is and therefore which range it is in.

Also worth remembering is that transfer box neutral renders the transmission's park lock useless, so make sure your handbrake is on and/or you're on level ground when you're fiddling with Fuse 37.
 
HI, BEMBLE
how long does the motor spin for to get it into LOW GEAR.
mine is about 1 to 2 seconds, not long at all.
 
HI,
just did the FUSE 37 thing, at no point did it go into LOW RANGE but the GREEN MOUNTAIN light lit and stopped on this time. (flashed before)
i did the lock to lock with the wheel as well to see if it would help, but did not.

SO TO RECAP,
dash reads TRANSFER BOX NEUTRAL and green mountain light flashes, goes up and down the box fine
but does not select LOW RANGE when you flick the switch but GREEN MOUNTAIN light comes on to say it's in low range
and now the green mountain light is now on all the time , I'm 100% sure it's not in low range, as the car drives fine (foot down 4,000 revs next gear 4,000 revs next gear)
 
HI, BEMBLE
can you tell me the output from the potentiometer to the pins,
1 and 2, 1 and 4 and 2 and 4. as i do not have this information and land rover NEITHER.
your help and knowledge will much appreciated.

TA, JOC
 
These are the approximate readings you should get measuring between pins 1 & 2 (measurements in kiloohms)

10-pinConnector.jpg

LowRangekeyposn.jpg

HighRangekeyposn.jpg
Neutralkeyposn.jpg


The resistance should change smoothly as the shift motor is operated. If there are spikes or dropouts in the readings the transfer box ECU will throw a wobbler
 
HI, BEMBLE
Read 1.44 to 1.48 in low,3.2 in neutral and 4.5 in high is this OK.
had potentiometer off the motor today to clean it but could not see how to.
 
Those readings sound fine.

Yes, unfortunately the potentiometer is a sealed unit so you would have to break it apart to get inside it, destroying it in the process.

Carbontrack.jpg


If you hold the outer casing and turn the inner ring with your finger, back & forth, it will clean up the wiper contacts on the carbon tracks and may - if you're lucky - get everything working again.

Hexagon.jpg
 
HI, BEMBLE.
tuck the potentiometer of to clean it again today (turn it with finger) and put the meter on it.
i still get 1.48,3.2 and 4.5 BUT i do get a drop-off a the very end and start of it's cycle.

if i turn the centre very very very slowly from the start 1.34 all the way round i get a reading going up all the time.
then right at the end 4.96 i get a drop-off 1mm later it's back to 1.34 is this the problem or is this the way it works

TA, JOC
 
HI, BEMBLE
by the way if i drill out the 3 counter sunk marks on the top would this release the 2 halves or is there more to it than that.

TA, JOC
 
joc44 said:
HI, BEMBLE.
tuck the potentiometer of to clean it again today (turn it with finger) and put the meter on it.
i still get 1.48,3.2 and 4.5 BUT i do get a drop-off a the very end and start of it's cycle.

if i turn the centre very very very slowly from the start 1.34 all the way round i get a reading going up all the time.
then right at the end 4.96 i get a drop-off 1mm later it's back to 1.34 is this the problem or is this the way it works

TA, JOC
Click to expand...
You can see in the photo above that where the track ends the wiper has to cross over a non-conductive part before connecting with the start of the track again so you will lose signal altogether just while it crosses over the junction.
 
joc44 said:
HI, BEMBLE
by the way if i drill out the 3 counter sunk marks on the top would this release the 2 halves or is there more to it than that.

TA, JOC
Click to expand...

No, I wouldn't do that! You'll drill right through its important bits! The two halves of the plastic case are attached around the outer edge.
 
I'd be tempted to stick it all back together again, recalibrate the shift motor and see if the issue has gone. It's possible that giving the potentiometer a bit of a workout may have cleaned up the contacts (if that's what was causing the problem). Land Rover have increased the price of a new shift motor from £600 to over £1800 in the last three years. Nice way to make money….
 
Last edited by a moderator:
HI, BEMBLE.
i did put it all all back on the car, went for a run the first 20 mins where fine but sad to say
TRANSFER BOX NEUTRAL. to top it all if i pick LOW RANGE it will go there but will not go back to HIGH RANGE.
(motor will click then hum for a second or two then click again) only way to get high range is to take it all off
and reset the box and motor. looking to buy a motor this weekend hope it works out for me.
 
Thanks for updating the thread. Usually the ECU is the very last thing on the list of things to consider so it's especially interesting to see that this is where your problem lay. Did you find this out through substitution rather than diagnostics?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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