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Ninety V8 Auto conversion, A few small tech questions.

I run a seperate cooler (mitsi pajero oil cooler) on my 300tdi auto 90 and have not seen any downside, never heard of auto tranny harmed by cold oil , but plenty by the opposite!!
A disco V8 rad with big additional engine oil cooler should cope OK , I ran 88 V8 with modded series rad(shortened to go on top of front crossmember) and 13 row mocal for oil , and that handled towing caravan in hot europe summer thru alps (many years ago) . HTSH
 
I can see where you are coming from, as from a RR or Disco point of view there was two ways of doing it.
My 1993 manual disco has the usual Engine oil cooler on the O/s as per usual. The Trans oil cooler goes from the box to the "Bog Brush" at the front and back to the box.
The 1995 Auto that donated the engine and box went as described above and with the usual Engine oil cooler, the trans cooler went to the rad and then through the "bog brush" then back to the box.
It would be nice to have a rad that fits the 90 / 110 front end (The RR and disco one's don't.) that does have the twin oil coolers. I think this is a pipe dream (pun included) but would be good as i have the pipe work from the doner.
I think it will probably be a TD style rad but maybe a recore / another core for extra cooling and just the engine oil cooler. I will then have to get the pipes for the Transmission cooler made up. to go straight to and from it. I did have special pipes made for the Trans on my 93 disco as i extended the cooler height to make way for the low line winch, so it isn't impossible just a little away from standard.
I'll go have a word with the local radiator place to see if my search doesn't go well
 
Devon-Rover said:
It would be nice to have a rad that fits the 90 / 110 front end (The RR and disco one's don't.) that does have the twin oil coolers. I think this is a pipe dream (pun included) but would be good as i have the pipe work from the doner.
I think it will probably be a TD style rad but maybe a recore / another core for extra cooling and just the engine oil cooler.
Click to expand...
The left hand header on the td rad has room (and the flat areas) for an oil cooler. My plan was to find a td rad and get it recored by a local outfit - I have a spare oil cooler that I kept from a scrap td rad, and it would be a doddle for them to fit it while the core is out.
The standard V8 rad has much smaller headers and the oil coolers won't fit.
 
Land Rover offer a transmission oil cooler that sits in a bracket in front of the main rad. Originally intened for use with the LT77 when used in conjunction with the V8 part Nos for the cooler are:

ESR488 up to JA922091
ESR1544 from JA922092

then there are a couple of flexible hoses to connect the cooler to the pipes that go back to the adaptor on the side of the gearbox.

Got one fitted on my One_Ten and can provide pix should you desire

as mentioned previously there are at least 2 oil cooler rads available for the Defender V8

ESR204 at approx 700 quid
or
ESR3685 for 295 from Paddocks
 
Right after having a good shufty under the bonnet of a previously converted V8 Auto 100 inch and a 50th Anniversary i now have a few questions answered.
The Gearbox needs a decent oil cooler but on the 50th and i can assume the NAS too then the Trans oil cooler doesn't go through the main rad Ala the Disco / Rangie setup.
It does have the Front panel like the TD5's and the Trans cooler is like the D2's / P38's (Rectangular Ali job) It seems like a good way to go.
The rad seems it can be a V8 rad as mentioned above or still the concept of a TD rad will fit. I'm inkling towards a the later V8 rad with the Engine oilcooler and at least be able to have the correct cowling for the fan. The trans pipework isn't under all the pressure so i could make up my own hoses and use HD clips. I can get proper unions and swaged with all that but there isn't anyone local and could cost a lot, i will investigate.
 
Do you have a branch of PIRTEK anywhere near to you? I always found them very helpful with such matters.

With respect to the V8 Rads, there are at least 2 different types of cowl used with them and (naturally) different hoses. The earlier rads had the top hose connection turned through 90 degrees whilst the later type just came straight out from the rad. I cannot remember whether the bottom hose connection changed though. The cowls are not interchangeable, at least not without doing some serious cutting to get them to fit
 
I do have a PIRTEK nearby but they alike Hose and Hydraulics are always helpful in trying to lighten my wallet. The trans cooler is under low pressure so the specalist clamps could be used. have seen them in use on the engine oil cooler and that is under high pressure. It is an option if i can't get the correct pipes.

The rad will have to have the bottom outlet with the Elbow to fit the Disco bottom hose i have. As this goes to the water pump and also there is another inlet on the block too. So i will have to use the doners bottom hose. The rad inlets i have seen all seem the same so the top hose should fit ok too. I will go to my local parts place and have a look at the rads before choosing
 
Still haven't made my mind up about the rad. Suspect it will be a later V8 one with oil cooler as it'll match the unions on the engine. The Transmission cooler will be via made up pipes and a 13 row mocal cooler which i am told by someone who has a similar setup keeps it cool.

Next problem. Why does the Hi / Low lever hit my gearbox tunnel (Original spec V8) How did you solve that?
 
That might be a relatively simple matter of adjustment, the hi/lo lever is pivoted on a post fixed to the side of the gearbox and engages on a splined shaft. All you need to do is move it round by 1 spline and that should solve your problems
 
I hadn't thought about that. Thanks i thought i was going mad. When the box sits on the mounts the Hi/Lo shifter assembly itself is very close to the tunnel. I'll see if i can get a picture.
 
Nope I was being thick. The Hi / lo shifter needs to be mounted on the FRC 8558 bracket which moves it into the correct position in relation to the tunnel. Something else to add to the ashcroft shopping list. When i order i will ask how that affects the linkage.

The Oil cooler is definitely a 13 row mocal and i have an Ebay score with the correct mocal hoses. Now just need two compression fittings and to cut the pipes in the right place and the hoses will bolt right on Gearbox cooling sorted!

The radiator is still ongoing...

Currently rebuilding the brake calipers, rears are all done. Looking for a pair of 110 fronts as they are bigger, so with those with new stainless pistons to go and then funding permitting CDG disks all round.

Hopefully tuesday will bring some nice weather and i shall wire brush and prep with Zinc phosphate primer the axle casings. There is this paint called POR15 which i have heard good things about and in Torbay there is the regional distributor of something called Rustseal from KBS coatings. Apartently it is very similar and so i might buy a tin and give it a go!

At the C&D LRC charity event i won a prize for 50 quid off a set of superpro bushes from Difflock, Result and that is the suspension sorted.

If only the Digi cam was working i could take some piccies for you lot.
 
interestingly just bought a new genuine rad for my truck. Correction, I paid for a new rad, the item that arrived in a Land Rover box with Land Rover labels all over it. Was not a new rad, but a rebuilt item. Enquiries are whizzing back and forth between supplier and factory.
 
Was it still a 'proper' all metal radiator? or something that has started to happen over here is that they the mystical supplier has started chucking out an alloy core with plastic end's that are crimped onto the core. The plastic is a cheap and nasty variety and and should you accidentally lean on a hose and what on a traditional rad might bend a pipe (The little ones that go to the header or inlet manifold) won't just bend they will snap. Much cussing will ensure and you will find that a new rad is needed as poly cement doesn't seem to stick it back on all that well.
My radiator choice will come down to this as i don't want a cheapy rad.
 
Oh yes it was still a traditional radiator with brass end tanks, copper finning and I presume brass tubes.
Just dismayed that it came complete with rust on the steel frame and all sorts of chemical residue on the threaded fittings.
 
Right sitrep:

I have the compression fittings, They are a 1/2" diameter going to 1/2" BSP thread. The thread being relevant to the pipework of the mocal cooler pipes. Be prepared to wince as the fittings from pirtek cost about 20 quid each! The metric ones would of been a quarter of the price but don't fit.
You could go down the route of using the 'bog brush' but that would need custom pipework at a greater expense, or you buy the cooler and the assciated pipework from the 50th anniversary and paid that premium too.

The radiator will be a TD one as predicted from many a page ago. There seems to be very little physical difference but there does seem to be a huge one from the NTC 6168 (TD one) 170 odd quid quoted To the 50th V8 one (ESR 3685) at 350 odd quid.
If i buy the 50th cowl (ERR 7307) and use the top clip on bit from the original Disco cowl (ESR 3226) and there is apparently two small brackets needed to fit it (ESR 4588) and then it will all match up to the fan position i have because i am using a Serpentine front end to the engine.

The linkage for the Hi / Lo lever will still work using the existing linkage from the Disco doner. (Thanks to Dave ashcroft for the info.)

Now handbrake: Ashcroft tell me it is to use a 300TDI era defender cable, Will this work what have you done to get around it? I still have the Original hand brake lever and a 300 series disco transfer box any ideas chaps?

Speedo cable? Again what is to used as i don't have an electric speedo! not too sure which one to use?
 
Devon-Rover said:
Now handbrake: Ashcroft tell me it is to use a 300TDI era defender cable, Will this work what have you done to get around it? I still have the Original hand brake lever and a 300 series disco transfer box any ideas chaps?

Speedo cable? Again what is to used as i don't have an electric speedo! not too sure which one to use?
Click to expand...

The 300tdi era handbrake cable goes straight from the handbrake lever to the handbrake drum. It has been a while since I converted mine(when I fitted a disco Tbox, but I recall that the backplate and expander mechanism are completely different to the earlier types.

As for Speedo cable, if you don't have an electronic speedo it is relatively simple to fish the Disco bits out of the side of the box and drop in the defender drive gear. From memory (again) there should be a road speed transducer fitted to the speedo cable on the EFi models, at least that was the set up I had when I fitted a 3.9 efi set up to my previous V8. That way you wnd up with a cable from the T/box to the transducer and one from the transducer to the speedo. It was about 12 years ago when I did this but I think I got the necessary bits from an old RR.

Best bloke to talk to is Mark Adams, what he doesn't know about Rover V8 Efi isn't worth knowing
 
Ro,

speedo cable to go from RR/Disco speed transducer to Ninety instrument PRC9555 as on 'Lara' (dealer price is silly IMHO) I have a spare one here I bought when I thought mine had gone - you are welcome to come over and look at it :)
Cheers
Gavin
 
Ahhh yes the dealer prices are silly, Ahh well one of those necessary evils of doing the conversion and not wanting it to look a right botch job.

To recap from you all and web research....

It goes TBOX--->drive gear--->Short Cable(PRC6320)--->Transducer (PRC5956)--->Long cable (PRC9555)

Drive gear info: for the two most common colours.

Colour: blue/20 teeth - Part number: FRC3310 - Tyres: 7.50/16 or 235/85/16
Colour: yellow/22 teeth - Part number: FRC3312 - Tyres: 205/16 tyres

This does look the slightly easier way than what it looks like to go down the TD5 style speedo route.
 
That's what I have done on Lara - you can come over and measure up if you want - or do it when you bring the 14CUX for it's new socket :)
 
I did the cable transducer ,cable to 110 speedo conversion when I did my 110 V8 3.5 conversion to 3.9 efi . But having fitted a TD5 speedo in my 90 for the edc 300 tdi conversion I would go that route as its far simpler You just bolt the TD5 transducer to the transfer box and use a td5 speedo , and use a feed from speedo to the ecu . JMHO
 
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