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replace chassis on Series 2a with a series 3 chassis

woodie63

In Third Gear
Hello all, I have a pretty rotten chassis on my LWB '63 2A, I've been offered series 3 LWB breaker which has a decent chassis
any thoughts? I've read that its better to go with a replacement new chassis...

many thanks

Peter
 
If you want to legally keep your 1963 registration you can't use a second hand chassis from a later vehicle, only a brand new one.
However, if you don't broadcast the fact, you should be OK.
 
Legally the ID of the vehicle goes with the chassis, so it would be registered as a series III of you went down that route. There are detail differences in the chassis as well but I don't know how difficult they are to overcome, most notably the crossmember under the bellhousing is different due to different clutch cylinder arrangements but someone else can confirm which way doesn't work. I suspect it's S3 bellhousing doesn't work in IIA chassis but could be the other way round.

Personally, legalities aside, I'd probably opt for chasing holes in the one you've got until you can get hold of a new replacement. It's a lot of work to change a chassis and you don't want to start chasing holes in the replacement two years later.
 
It's more than just detail differences.
AFAIK all 109" S3 chassis were made from U section pressings for the main rails.
Therefore it's almost impossible to disguise on as an earlier 2/2A chassis.
Lighter and stronger than a 2A chassis, but they also seem to rust very well indeed.
Not sure about 1 ton or military combat chassis, they might have been still corner welded from thicker steel
 
It's more than just detail differences.
AFAIK all 109" S3 chassis were made from U section pressings for the main rails.
Therefore it's almost impossible to disguise on as an earlier 2/2A chassis.
Lighter and stronger than a 2A chassis, but they also seem to rust very well indeed.
Not sure about 1 ton or military combat chassis, they might have been still corner welded from thicker steel

Combat chassis is made from the same U section pressings as the civvy ones, but AFAIK all the replacement ones available are corner welded. David
 
Hi all, thanks all for your input
I'm definitely not going with the S3 chassis swap, I'll soldier on with the existing one and replace the quarter rear chassis
patch the rest
really appreciate the advice here by you generous folks šŸ˜…
best

Peter
 
What is the cost of a replacement chassis in the UK? I'm sure with delivery the price varies somewhat but looking at Shielder and Marsland the prices seem pretty reasonable even after shipping to the US and Canada. I never want to tell people how to spend their money but some things do not seem worth the energy or trouble.
 
I suspect it's S3 bellhousing doesn't work in IIA chassis
Yes that's the issue. It is due to the gussets (oh er missus) being larger/different shape on the 2A chassis and the bellhousing 'lump' where the slave goes will touch/rub/offend these gussets. But only the ones on the left.

I know this is a slightly old thread, but for posterity this might be useful to someone in the far flung future of the search feature.
 
Would it be too far a diversion to discuss the options available today for a replacement chassis. In a thread from 2007 the names Richards, Designa and Marsland were thrown about but I know there are other producers or brands. I mentioned Shielder above and I'm sure I read something on a FB page about a company out of Poland (they may have been bulkheads only). Any manufacturers in North America yet?
 
S3 gearboxes do work in S2 chassis
My 58 SWB has a S3/early defender 2.25 diesel and matching gearbox fitted at the moment.

Peter
 
Leaf or coil?
Coils
AF3BC695-1329-42F8-A411-200FE9FD605B.jpeg
 
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