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What did you do to your Disco today?

Fitted philps h7 led bulbs to my facelift D2
Easy peasy on high beam but needed some mods for dip.
The block connector inside the headlamp unit needed the flag female connectors removed from the block connector to let the covers screw in place
Gerat result though…
 
URX said:
Fitted philps h7 led bulbs to my facelift D2
Easy peasy on high beam but needed some mods for dip.
The block connector inside the headlamp unit needed the flag female connectors removed from the block connector to let the covers screw in place
Gerat result though…
Click to expand...
Did you take any photos per chance ?
Cheers .
D.
 
dragon 87 said:
Did you take any photos per chance ?
Cheers .
D.
Click to expand...
I didnt take any photos when i fitted them but i can if its helpful?
The H7 bulbs are philips ultinon - these come with a block connector which combined with the oem block connector makes for a huge lump.
Not really an issue at all with the high beam but wont fit with the dip beam covers fitted.
Popped the block connector off the headlamp end and suddenly it all fits. Pop on some flag connector insulation and all is well
 
Today I used the D2 to take a full carload of in-laws to their Airbnb
Happily on the way the n/s/f wheel bearing failed
Waiting patiently for the AA to come take my wounded Disco home

***k
 

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URX said:
Today I used the D2 to take a full carload of in-laws to their Airbnb
Happily on the way the n/s/f wheel bearing failed
Waiting patiently for the AA to come take my wounded Disco home

***k
Click to expand...
Bugger.. I think I'll defo do when I plan to do discs,pads,etc in the warmer times 🤞
 
dragon 87 said:
Bugger.. I think I'll defo do when I plan to do discs,pads,etc in the warmer times 🤞
Click to expand...
What was most worrying was the lack of any audible or visible warning of impending failure till a couple of minutes before total collapse.
Plenty of time for me to get parked up safely ….but not very long at all if say you were on a motorway…..just thankful,it was me and not my missus driving.
 
Righto hub replaced…it also managed to take out the brake carrier and disc
So new hub & sensor and front brake discs and pads ….sigh
Fun photos of the old hub and the carrier…you can see the lump ground out of the pad bearing area …that was all that was holding ot all together..
 

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URX said:
Righto hub replaced…it also managed to take out the brake carrier and disc
So new hub & sensor and front brake discs and pads ….sigh
Fun photos of the old hub and the carrier…you can see the lump ground out of the pad bearing area …that was all that was holding ot all together..
Click to expand...
Not seen one like that before. It looks like that vehicle has seen some abuse with it's big wheels and all (if I'm remembering right it has suspension lift?).
It's sort of becoming clearer now why maybe it had problems. Good job you're now sorting through it but I reckon there a more to find yet. Wishing you good luck with it.
 
Hi thanks Cliff, the D1 with the ‘lets off road’ stuff on it moved on when i took on Luger’s ‘ hard to start ‘ D2. I got enough for the D1 to pay for the D2.
The current D2 is as standard as Ive seen…..so many seem to have been jacked and hacked about.
Plus side is its bog standard (cheaper on insurance etc) it has a nice level body and bumpers etc with a good clean unripped interior and all the electrics/ electronics seem to work fine.
Ace has been deleted and its on springs. 5 seater so nice storage boxes in the boot. Dry inside with no sunroof or screen leaks.
Starts first time hot or cold and idles nice with no fault messages or amigos etc. box changes smoothly and drives lovely.
Downsides
Some poor (bodge) welding repair work previously meaning a replacement chassis section is the next major job that will be needed.
Looking at it its more than a 1/4 perhaps a 1/3 but a 1/2 should definitely get back to good metal.
Next job though is to sort the sticky nsr caliper
 

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URX said:
Hi thanks Cliff, the D1 with the ‘lets off road’ stuff on it moved on when i took on Luger’s ‘ hard to start ‘ D2. I got enough for the D1 to pay for the D2.
The current D2 is as standard as Ive seen…..so many seem to have been jacked and hacked about.
Plus side is its bog standard (cheaper on insurance etc) it has a nice level body and bumpers etc with a good clean unripped interior and all the electrics/ electronics seem to work fine.
Ace has been deleted and its on springs. 5 seater so nice storage boxes in the boot. Dry inside with no sunroof or screen leaks.
Starts first time hot or cold and idles nice with no fault messages or amigos etc. box changes smoothly and drives lovely.
Downsides
Some poor (bodge) welding repair work previously meaning a replacement chassis section is the next major job that will be needed.
Looking at it its more than a 1/4 perhaps a 1/3 but a 1/2 should definitely get back to good metal.
Next job though is to sort the sticky nsr caliper
Click to expand...
Well that's a relief, I thought you had taken on a mud play vehicle looking at that hub. I wonder if that hub is original or a cheap replacement? See if the bearing is marked 'Timkin'. It will be if a genuine LR part.
 
mikeau said:
Two rules to live by;
Only use Timkin bearings
Only use Corteco seals.
Click to expand...
+1 for that.

Slight problem though with D2 hubs, Timkin no longer supply the bearing; It's a crying shame!
Aftermarket versions use non-branded bearings, mostly the Chinese cheese variety. The other thing that's important is the ABS sensor which is 'factory set' and critical for avoiding the 3 amigos problem. The OEM hub (supplied by Britpart) has a genuine WABCO sensor fitted and a bearing supplied by RW Bearings in the UK. I've not had problem with these so far but I've not done many miles on them. The OEM hub costs about £150 which is 3 to 4 times more than the cheap Britpart one. The Bearmach ones (don't know if Britpart are still selling these) were dodgy, some failed straight away, and had the wrong number of teeth in the reluctor ring; absolute junk!
The Borg and Beck hub has received a lot of positive comment and recommendation, is cheaper than the OEM, and seems to be the one to go for. I'm not so clear about the ABS sensor situation with this one, but must be OK since I've seen no negative comment.
There's always the Genuine LR hubs (if you can find one) for about £600. Doubt it will have a Timkin in it though and I'd not be surprised if it came in a blue box (well blue box inside a red box cover).
 
mikeau said:
Ive heard the Japanese-made bearings are also good, (but Ive not used them).
Can you get the sizes for the D2 hub bearings and source them off-the-shelf..?
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The bearing has an integrated reluctor ring and is factory fitted into the hub, so a very specialist bearing. It would be a specialist kind of job to successfully replace a bearing; a HD hydraulic press would be needed at minimum.
It is possible to buy borg and beck hubs without the bearing, but I don't think they're intended for D2, or is it really a very practical proposition to just replace a bearing in a worn hub, and to get the ABS sensor setup correctly.
Japanese SKF bearing are used in some of the hubs. Branded Japanese bearings are good quality; I used some SKFs in my LT95 rebuild.
 
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