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What did you do to your Series today?

I have taken advantage of two days without rain in god knows how long to get a bit of fresh paint on my 2a 109,
I need to reconnect the lighting wiring front and back, bolt the front seats in, sort out the wipers and check and tighten the new steering rods then i'm ready for the road,
I wanted it presentable before venturing out so the painting took precedent.
 

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I am putting my cylinder head back on.
After the initial torque down and start up, after how many miles do I need to take the rocker cover off and re-torque the head bolts ?
Read conflicting opinions online and in books - some say after the first run up to temperature, others say after 4 miles, others after 50....
I want to avoid a blown head gasket, but I also don't want to keep taking the rocker cover off unnecessarily!
 
BaldRick84 said:
I am putting my cylinder head back on.
After the initial torque down and start up, after how many miles do I need to take the rocker cover off and re-torque the head bolts ?
Read conflicting opinions online and in books - some say after the first run up to temperature, others say after 4 miles, others after 50....
I want to avoid a blown head gasket, but I also don't want to keep taking the rocker cover off unnecessarily!
Click to expand...
I too have read conflicting responses to this question but from my own personal experience I'd say re-torque the head after three or four heat-cool cycles and maybe around 100 miles of driving. Then again after about 500 miles and you should be good. Just my opinion of course... 😁
 
Mr Stein said:
I replaced the gear-stick today using a spare one I had.
This one's an older design, looks like it should have had a rubber spacer or something around it, whereas the later one is more... er... phallic shaped.
Anyway, I made an end cap out of PTFE...
Click to expand...
' PTFE' 🤔 French spit 😳
 
SeriesG said:
I too have read conflicting responses to this question but from my own personal experience I'd say re-torque the head after three or four heat-cool cycles and maybe around 100 miles of driving. Then again after about 500 miles and you should be good. Just my opinion of course... 😁
Click to expand...

There is a theory that modern composite head gaskets don't need retorquing at all. Personally, when I have done mine, I retorque after about 500 miles. The old copper head gaskets are a whole other kettle of fish, they will probably start blowing regardless of how and when the head bolts are tightened! David
 
BaldRick84 said:
I am putting my cylinder head back on.
After the initial torque down and start up, after how many miles do I need to take the rocker cover off and re-torque the head bolts ?
Read conflicting opinions online and in books - some say after the first run up to temperature, others say after 4 miles, others after 50....
I want to avoid a blown head gasket, but I also don't want to keep taking the rocker cover off unnecessarily!
Click to expand...
Copper run up to temperature and then re-torque, always in 3 stages last stage 10lb/ft max. Then 500 miles and tappet check.

Composite (my only preference from Turner Engineering) torque once only but I do check after warm up, more as a check to to ensure tappets have settled in.

"Stick" rocker box gasket to rocket box with Hylomar so it does not move on fitting
 
Today I was going to fit the Defender accelerator pedal to give the ex Disco engine a proper cable control and stop the 'kangarooing' you get at low speeds from a rod operated throttle. Everyone says "it goes straight in if you use a LHD Disco cable" but I came across two issues:

1): The Defender pedal assembly is not a direct fit into a Series footwell - you need to bend the bottom of the plate (or saw it off) to fit the profile of the Series foot-well.
I haven't drilled the hole yet but I'm assuming the cable should exit into the upper footwell panel so it operates parallel with the pivot on the end of the cable.

2):This gives rise to another problem. The profile of the Series footwell underneath doesn't give the pedal much travel, even if I take out the stop-bolt and bend the upper-tab I get 35mm worth of cable travel - yet the throttle lever requires 45mm of cable travel for the full range.

Come on fellow TDi'ers - what am I doing wrong? (With photo's and measurements if possible please!) :sad:
 
Last edited:
Finn19 said:
Copper run up to temperature and then re-torque, always in 3 stages last stage 10lb/ft max. Then 500 miles and tappet check.

Composite (my only preference from Turner Engineering) torque once only but I do check after warm up, more as a check to to ensure tappets have settled in.

"Stick" rocker box gasket to rocket box with Hylomar so it does not move on fitting
Click to expand...
Thanks to everyone for the replies on this one.
One further question - am I having a massive blond moment, or is it impossible to fit/remove the rocker cover with the thermostat housing in place? The edge of the thermostat housing just catches the rocker cover. I can't believe I have to take the thermostat apart every time I want to remove the cover.
 
Mr Stein said:
Today I was going to fit the Defender accelerator pedal to give the ex Disco engine a proper cable control and stop the 'kangarooing' you get at low speeds from a rod operated throttle. Everyone says "it goes straight in if you use a LHD Disco cable" but I came across two issues:

1): The Defender pedal assembly is not a direct fit into a Series footwell - you need to bend the bottom of the plate (or saw it off) to fit the profile of the Series foot-well.
I haven't drilled the hole yet but I'm assuming the cable should exit into the upper footwell panel so it operates parallel with the pivot on the end of the cable.

2):This gives rise to another problem. The profile of the Series footwell underneath doesn't give the pedal much travel, even if I take out the stop-bolt and bend the upper-tab I get 35mm worth of cable travel - yet the throttle lever requires 45mm of cable travel for the full range.

Come on fellow TDi'ers - what am I doing wrong? (With photo's and measurements if possible please!) :sad:
Click to expand...
It sounds like it should be pretty simple but obviously not, can you not use the original throttle assembly somehow, you say its all rod, how's the rod attached to the throttle now, I'm assuming a clevis and a pin, can you not get a cable made to get you out of the cab and go from there, the tdi end is a small clevis so that's not to much of an issue, not having much to do with those series don't know what it looks like so maybe completely wrong, can't believe your gearstick scenario fella, that's some bad luck there
 
Driving down the M27 this morning and a terrible blappety-blap noise starts up from underneath. Seems to be speed related but still there when I dip the clutch so at least not the engine I'm relieved to think.

Then it stops...

Arriving at my destination it appears the rubber gaiter on the front prop shaft has decided to shred itself and flap against the chassis until it disappears. This new rubber is useless (less than 6 mths olds)
 
Just had a look and see it's a ball, can you not make something to go through the bulkhead to some sort of adjuster engine side just after the bulkhead or mounted off the bulkhead to your FIP the cable won't need to be long I'd of thought
 
BaldRick84 said:
Thanks to everyone for the replies on this one.
One further question - am I having a massive blond moment, or is it impossible to fit/remove the rocker cover with the thermostat housing in place? The edge of the thermostat housing just catches the rocker cover. I can't believe I have to take the thermostat apart every time I want to remove the cover.
Click to expand...

Not a problem I've ever encountered. The rocker cover should easily come off without removing the thermostat housing. David
 
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