Rustee nutz
Extreme Landy Fan
I do hope britpart don’t make condoms 
...And that's why I don't use Britpart (especially if it's made of rubber).
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What did you do to your Series today?
- Thread starter TBM
- Start date
BaldRick84
Overdrive!
Hopefully these pictures will show what I'm on about.
The lip on the thermostat housing is causing the issue. You can't tuck the rocker cover underneath it because you need to lower the cover over the three securing studs simultaneously. Perhaps I have a thermostat housing from a later engine (maybe a 2.5?) causing the issue.
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If you lift the back end of the cover a bit first it will probably wiggle enough to clear. David
BaldRick84
Overdrive!
I've tried various methods. The three studs through the rocker cover are the issue. Will try again tomorrow !
I've never seen a rocker cover so clean....
If I recall that bit has always been in the way, you need to tilt it right up until it clears the front mounting post, there may be a scraping sound...this is quite normal.
Putting it back on will also displace the new cover gasket that you've just carefully arranged.... and you will need to poke the sides back in place, it's why some people glue them on.
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Blanchards is where i got mine from.. but .. i am wary about who actually made the gaiter .. it is thinner than the old type gaiter .. and i am questioning whether i should have taken the old style gaiter off my spare axle .. the prop is no good on the spare axle as they cut the prop off removing the axles ... but if the new one disintergrates .. then at least my question will be answered .... Blanchards do supply britpart stuff .. so it does make me wonder some times .. but i will keep on using Blanchards .. i like them as a company and most but not all their parts are genuine
My 200di has a series 3 deisel cable from FIP to a bracket on engine side of footwell and cable attached to original pedal shaft quite simple never been an issue since fitted.Today I was going to fit the Defender accelerator pedal to give the ex Disco engine a proper cable control and stop the 'kangarooing' you get at low speeds from a rod operated throttle. Everyone says "it goes straight in if you use a LHD Disco cable" but I came across two issues:
1): The Defender pedal assembly is not a direct fit into a Series footwell - you need to bend the bottom of the plate (or saw it off) to fit the profile of the Series foot-well.
I haven't drilled the hole yet but I'm assuming the cable should exit into the upper footwell panel so it operates parallel with the pivot on the end of the cable.
2):This gives rise to another problem. The profile of the Series footwell underneath doesn't give the pedal much travel, even if I take out the stop-bolt and bend the upper-tab I get 35mm worth of cable travel - yet the throttle lever requires 45mm of cable travel for the full range.
Come on fellow TDi'ers - what am I doing wrong? (With photo's and measurements if possible please!)
I am sure Glencoyne gives advice on defender pedal set up.
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I mainly have a problem with the heater control tap being in the way. I put the box in at an angle, slightly down at the front, get the first stud lined up and the rest will follow. That being said, I might be tempted to take a shave off the edge of the rocker box.
My heater tap is on the driver's side of that housing. In fact, the housing looks completely different to mine.
Could you replace the box studs with bolts?
robwlondon
Posting Guru
Last year I got one from Blanchards that was very good quality after wasting money on 3 BP ones that lasted weeks. I'll fit it next time the prop is off. What did work with the BP ones was only doing up the clip on the small end and leaving the large end free to slide with a tie wrap just done enough to let it move. That way you get a couple of years.
The problem with the Britpart rubber stuff is that it is made from poor quality rubber and is too thick, so not flexible enough. If yours are on the thin side that is probably a good thing. David
SeriesG
Offroader
I was thinking the same thing - mine looks different.
Yes, one has to tread carefully, even with Blanchard, and make sure that the PN has a G after it. I saw an NOS choke cable on eBay the other day, but dug deeper and asked; turned out it wasn't NOS genuine but NOS Britpart! Suppose BP have been around long enough to pinch NOS credibility.
Mine just catches too, it's a bit of a faff, cos mine catches a heater hose too, but with a bit of jiggery-pokery I can take the rocker cover off without removing anything else.....
Something so bad, someone doesn't even take it out the bag until it has it's own patina.
That's the same as mine (though mine being diesel doesn't have the temp sender there, it's in the back of the head on mine. No otter switch either)
Finn19
Overdrive!
This is fitted to a late 5 bearing 2.25 unit; as you can see an overhang but not as much, a bit of a puzzler but kind of normal as either L/R or P/O could have fitted what they had to hand. Looking at your photo it could be a late engine, if the filler plug is a screw in orange plug. Sometimes removing (2 nut method) the front stud can give clearance.
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BaldRick84
Overdrive!
Yes its a late 5 bearing unit. I will work around it, just slightly irritating!
Have just put cylinder head back on after having it refurbished with hardened valve seats, new exhaust valves, light skim, pressure test etc. All torqued up correctly as per the manual. Didn't touch carb settings or distributor, just put all back together same as I took it off. Tried firing it up today with the rocker cover off. I'm getting a spark at all the plugs and there is fuel coming through the fuel line....but its absolutely rough as a dog and can barely get it to stay on. Sounds like its running lumpy on two or three cylinders. The only thing I haven't attended to is the tappet clearances. Would they cause it to run as rough as this even if they were marginally out? Not sure what else to check.
If i have read this right ... new valves and seats and a skim . mmm let me think would the valve clearances need resetting ..
before i started it up .. ..even if you just wanted to hear it run .. you must set the clearances .. you could get away with it near enough if you had just changed the gasket .. but changing those other parts threw every thing out .. i wonder how many tight tappets you will find .. so plugs out and set those tappets ... you know you have too .. have fun ....and once they are right if it is still running like a dog then look for air leaks.. either inlet manifold gasket or carb area vac pipe etc..