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Series III LWB 'Tent on Wheels' Conversion

Looking great I have the same generator and have been thinking of were to move it and seeing where yours is I think when I get onto doing the tub etc it I will move it to the same place as you can see mine is not in the most practical area

Where's your shunt box? If that's not a rude question...
 
Distraction No. 1

When doing big projects like these, I find I can get bogged down in the detail and brain fog descends and progress stops... It's then I find I need a distraction - One of the greatest advances in modern cars surely has to be the Cup holder, and as I'm building a touring vehicle, surely I've got to add cup holders....

Clearing up the workshop one day (I know it doesn't look like it from my photos, but it does get cleaned up occasionally) I realised a takeaway coffee fitted snugly into an empty Pot Noodle pot... cut down the pot and splay out the remainder so it can be fixed and you'll see where I'm heading...

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Where to fit? My everyday car is a BMW X3 and that has a central cup holder, which I've sort of got used to - so centrally on the battery box it is - 3 divider boxes give an illustration of where it'll go and the rough shape.

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Then I raided the wood off cuts box and with a mix of 5 and 12 mm ply built this - the central slot is for an ashtray - old mini one £5 from an autojumble.

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And this is where it'll fit, and no, it doesn't foul the gearstick.

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Finally the top was covered in 5mm foam and the whole in vinyl, and the bit I'm most pleased about is that it's held in place by magnets - so no holes in the battery box and easy to remove.

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Top view.

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Is it that was it in the back with the wires plugged in (if you zoom in on the picture) I know I called it a generator but I don't know it's correct name and I presume the generator is the thing in the engine in place of the alternator

I think the correct terminology for what's in your photo is a generator panel, the mod calls what civvies call an alternator a generator and the shunt box is a metal box full of wiring with an ammeter on it, on mine it is centrally mounted facing forwards behind the battery box and between the front seats.

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In the photo above it's on the left of the generator panel with wires on it's top.
 
Is it that was it in the back with the wires plugged in (if you zoom in on the picture) I know I called it a generator but I don't know it's correct name and I presume the generator is the thing in the engine in place of the alternator
Or is it the box you have the light on lol just seen your answer
 
Thanks I have not got one of them. But the black cable over the passenger tank I have one detached like that over the drivers side uncoupled do you know what it is for has it like an end that would fit a speedo or similar

In mine that's a cable running from the starter batteries +ve into the bottom of the shunt box via an access panel and grommets below the shunt box, you can just make it out in the photo.
 
More bench work...

First off I built up mounting panels and a back for the control panel, which simply bolts in (1 each side) into T nuts inserted in the mounting panels either side.

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Next step was to fill, sand and shape the control panel, before covering in vinyl.

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Then I mounted the bench back, cross beams with the lower sliding door runners, a back panel to the storage area and brackets to try and hold everything rigid.

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I then cut and fitted an end panel, rebating it in for a smooth finish.

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Finally I cut and fitted sliding doors and trial fitted it all back in the car.

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Even managed to keep the wiring for the lighting intact!

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Next up is sorting the bench base top panel and hinge panel and the control panel.
 
The bench continues...

First off, I cut, covered in foam and vinyl and then trial fitted the bench back pad, then I cut and trial fitted the bench base top.

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Then I cut finger lift holes and added a lock - lovely staining on the ply internally...

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The lock caused problems... Obviously it needed to mount centrally (anything else would look odd - well to me at least) - but that interfered with the bench base central structural beam - I blame the designer... So out with the router and 'adjust' the beam, to rebate it to accommodate both the lock and a catch plate made out of ply.

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Then it all came apart again so it could be varnished, which'll take a bit of time, there's 3 coats needed, but there's a top and a bottom so effectively 6 coats, got to watch the temperature too, I need +10 before I can really start - but not to worry, I have got a helper...

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Varnish, varnish and more varnish...

But whilst this was all going on I started on the control panel insert - cut from sheet aluminium, with holes drilled for various gauges and switches - it's in the control panel on the far right.

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This was then covered in black vinyl and the gauges and switches were added, whilst also fitting the bench back pad.

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The reverse (outer) side of the bench, which projects above the car's bodywork was covered in rebated ply, for a smooth finish and varnished...

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Detail of the control panel insert, held in by dzus fasteners for ease of access. The big white circle in the top left is a light.

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Detail of the back of the control panel insert, a bit of a mish mash, which'll all need wiring up...

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The wiring up, will be to these:
a 24v fused buzz box - for the 24v circuit (fridge, map light, battery monitor, kettle, etc, etc)
a converter - to convert 24v into 12v
a 12v fused buzz box - for the 12v circuit (interior lights, water gauge / sender, water pump, cigar lighter, clock, etc, etc)
an earth point - to try and minimise cable lengths

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I have a sort of a plan, but expect it to 'evolve' during the build...

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So, lots of wiring to look forward to...
 
Wiring...

First off, I rewired the converter and having played around with various positions fitted the converter, 12v buzz box, 24v buzz box and earth point. I also fitted cable tie bars and velcro cable ties to ease the wire laying out process.

Then I laid out the wiring for the 24v system.

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Whilst checking everything worked, and, yes, the 24v system indicator light (a LED) is far too bright - will have to do something about that.

The 'loom' was then removed and bound before being replaced.

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Then I did the same for the 12 v system, adding further switches- not totally sure about the on / off plates, they might go.

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This was then all trial fitted back in the car.

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Before again checking everything still worked.

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There's both 12v and 24v outputs to the front of the car. The 12v output feeds another 12v buzz box mounted in the engine bay which feeds into the dash for a clock, a double USB and a couple of spares. The 24v output feeds a leisure battery voltmeter. So I now have 2 working voltmeters (leisure batteries on the left, starter batteries on the right), a clock and Sat nav.

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With all the added electrics, thought it worth rounding the week off by fitting a fire extinguisher - mounted on the mid bulkhead behind the driver's seat, so accessible from both front and back.

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Next up, I've got to go back up front to sort out a few main loom wiring issues...
 

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A few wiring issues... To be frank I don't know how anything electrical worked when I bought the car, but somehow it did... There were so many burnt out wires, melted and fused cables, scotchblocks, bypasses and melted multiplugs that the electrical system was a bonfire waiting to happen.

This is the 6 way multiple connecting the light switch, and yes, it worked!

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Part of the rear loom fused together...

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Rear loom multiplug - and it all worked!

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The rear loom had to come out and be replaced - I made my own, this is an example of what came out.

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The multiplug connecting the light switch and damaged wiring was replaced.

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The centre console cleaned, sanded, repainted and replaced.

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Finally topped off with athe recovered dash top.

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Just got to sort this little lot out next...

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With the dash top on, I refitted the windscreen (cleaned up and one pane replaced long ago).

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Transferring the sun visors and rear view mirror from the hard top the car came with.

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Next up was 2 new door tops, I know the glass is different from original, but I can live with that, the old ones had to be cut off...

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Then the door surrounds could go on, a bit of fettling later and it all sort of fitted

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Then on with new door rubbers - I've gone with one piece (price driven) and after a bit of fettling around the screen tie down, they fitted.

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Really quite impressed with the door rubbers, they fitted perfectly, nice and tight, although you do need to shut the doors 'firmly' as with any new rubbers - I'm sure the couple of kinks will smooth down over time.

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So with all that done I could pop the hood back on...

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Now, back to the wiring...
 
With the dash top on, I refitted the windscreen (cleaned up and one pane replaced long ago).

View attachment 420317

Transferring the sun visors and rear view mirror from the hard top the car came with.

View attachment 420318

Next up was 2 new door tops, I know the glass is different from original, but I can live with that, the old ones had to be cut off...

View attachment 420319

Then the door surrounds could go on, a bit of fettling later and it all sort of fitted

View attachment 420320

Then on with new door rubbers - I've gone with one piece (price driven) and after a bit of fettling around the screen tie down, they fitted.

View attachment 420321

Really quite impressed with the door rubbers, they fitted perfectly, nice and tight, although you do need to shut the doors 'firmly' as with any new rubbers - I'm sure the couple of kinks will smooth down over time.

View attachment 420322

So with all that done I could pop the hood back on...

View attachment 420324

Now, back to the wiring...
Good progress .which door rubbers did you go for please ..
 
Good progress .which door rubbers did you go for please ..

They were from John Craddock - part nos LR077686 & LR077687 - currently £11.98 + VAT + delivery each.

I found it easiest fitting the top rear corner first, then running along the top to the top front corner, the verticals are then pretty straightforward - a spare piece of 2" × 2" really helps too.
 
They were from John Craddock - part nos LR077686 & LR077687 - currently £11.98 + VAT + delivery each.

I found it easiest fitting the top rear corner first, then running along the top to the top front corner, the verticals are then pretty straightforward - a spare piece of 2" × 2" really helps too.
I bought some for £23 I couldn’t justify the hefty price tag .I haven’t fitted them yet but yours look a good fit ..
 
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