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To India and Beyond....

There he is again, at the edge of the mountains, taking a breather from climbing almost ten km in a day.

A three thousand year old tomb, almost unnoticed in the modern age and definitely not respected - in Kas they are utilised as rubbish bins.... over the last thousand years locals chipped a hole below the roof and bored another at the base. Oil was poured in and collected and then used for treating all manner of ailments and anointing the dead, believing as they did that the oil had intermingled with the dust of the bones of saints.
 

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Some of the first up close and personal shots of Lycian tombs at Fethiyeh; you had to pay for entry to these, a mere Euro each. The skill of the ancient masons is quite incredible. Hewn from the rock without modern tools..... looks like Petra doesn't it? Look, there goes Indiana Jones!
 

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Good morning everybody, and for my Muslim readers Ramadan Kareem or as they say here, Ramazan bayramizim! Trips off the tongue doesn't it? The faux fast is over and business as usual continues with the addition of a week's holiday which began yesterday. So, not unlike Christmas in the west! This is just a quick update to say "hello", with more to follow later, and yes Redcoat, there will be Billys!

Before I return to the Lycians and provide a beautiful tapestry of ancient life some three thousand years ago I will mention our latest two hops, yesterday's being the penultimate before we are teenager/guest free and we hit the road northwards with a dog and two rats as co-drivers. The rats have to wear weighted Bergens when they assist the dog with driving - she can do the gear stick and steering but they need sufficient weight to depress the pedals. Kaspar often falls asleep and is quite insulted when the dog kicks him awake to sit on the brake!

Lancelot was fully laden; the rear full to the ceiling, baggage on the top (why do teenagers need so much kit, particularly perplexing and five people inside, with cool boxes between the passengers feet and the dog, correction, Her Imperial Majesty, stretched across the front passenger's legs with her head sliding ever closer to my left knee, a nose width from the gear stick.

We covered 247 km in five and a half hours, including two breaks along the way. This may seem slow, yet the road was a constant serpentine, flowing along the contours of the coast, mimicking the dry riverbeds which have carved their paths down the mountainsides. The route over the top of the mountains is shorter in both time and distance but we decided to avoid the 1600 metre climb Lancelot did so well four times last week both to reduce the strain on his brilliant engine and to appreciate the incredible Mediterranean views to the south (our left) as we pottered along. Interestingly enough the roads were empty, devoid of crazy overtaking and no stopping at police checkpoints, although we passed through three on our way.

Everybody who was awake in Lancelot had a moment's reflection when we got close to the coastal town of Demre. A steep road takes you down towards the final approach to there city and it is steep and deceptively fast enough to warrant two descending lanes, a double Armco barrier and a five by three metre electrical sign which flashes at you until you are driving at 50 kmph or less. As we came towards the corner a police car appeared to us, on our side of the road, facing up the hill. As we neared we could see a huge gash in the Armco, some six or seven metres wide with disappearing wheel skid marks going over the edge. The wheels dug in two fiercely that they left an impression centimetres into the tarmac. The drop at this point is three hundred meters and sheer.... Gulp. It is impossible to imagine what the last thoughts of the driver were and judging by the skid marks he was unable to jump from the cab. There but for the grace of God go we.

The rest of the journey was uneventful apart from a fault which falls squarely into Eric the Electrical Elephant's bailiwick; stopping for a spot of lunch I was asked by a local if I had jump leads - picture a skinny Turkish guy with 70's Porn 'tash standing in front of me and doing scissoring hand actions accompanied by "akku, akku, buzz, buzz!" So, first use of our industrial jump leads and off he went with them for his friend to give him a boost.

An hour after this all was well and then the battery light came on! On arriving at our destination the GPS tracker reported a battery condition of 12.1 V. I have now driven a further three hundred km and the light has not come back on and is at 14 V plus! Karma....

On a serious note any thoughts? Alternator issues ahead or battery condition? I have no prior Defender experience with batteries...Series I, Range Rover (Classic and Vogue), problems aplenty!

Two delightful days spent in a small house in the countryside surrounded by goats and chickens, an inquisitive Russian Blue cat and a slack-handful of Buckshee dogs that were always very interested in what we were eating, as was the only goat which escaped its night-time tether. Still Poly-tunnels abounding yet no so intensely and a very different atmosphere pervaded there; no modern supermarkets, everybody smiling and waving as you pass and our hosts were delightful old Turkish people who were at pains to ensure our stay was pleasant. The old gentleman even came to the house to wish us bon voyage as he was leaving before we did, dressed as he was in his Sunday best and smiling, showing excellent white teeth. Teeth! awe passed a shepherd on the road the day before, a huge thick-set man, built like a wrestler who clearly lived in his clothes, yet he waved and smiled showing us immaculate and huge teeth as he did so. Wehere we were previously everybody's teeth were less than healthy (ok, clearly an exaggeration and perhaps I am incorrect yet the teeth in the countryside east of Antalya appeared to be better than those east of Fethiye).

With that dear friends I will say goodbye for now and post some pictures shortly. Standby for the next instalment of Lancelot's Lycian journeys.

T
 
Not long after arriving at our latest forest retreat we took a walk by the dwindling river, fabulous pools for taking a dip but the water level is diminishing as the weather becomes warmer and drier and our hosts take the water for their two hundred olive trees and other assorted uses.

Nevertheless, the river is beautiful and a group of local Turkish wanderers passed by, tossing their beer cans into the otherwise immaculate undergrowth. The leader of the pack was a cross between Borat and the guy from Mungo Jerry….
 

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Some of the first up close and personal shots of Lycian tombs at Fethiyeh; you had to pay for entry to these, a mere Euro each. The skill of the ancient masons is quite incredible. Hewn from the rock without modern tools..... looks like Petra doesn't it? Look, there goes Indiana Jones!
Great pics!.... if you are heading towards Antalya on the coast road there are the Lycian Rock Cut Tombs of Myra-Mezarlari before the market town of Finike where we stayed. We were invited to a combined stag/hen night & two weddings within being there a day ... lovely friendly people!

 
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Great pics!.... if you are heading towards Antalya on the coast road there are the Lycian Rock Cut Tombs of Myra-Mezarlari before the market town of Finike where we stayed. We were invited to a combined stag/hen night & two weddings within being there a day ... lovely friendly people!

Agreed and thank you - we have found some fabulous tomb sites in the mountains too - pictures and paragraphs to follow. Myra is now fifteen euros per person entrance fee.

Further along at Limyra is the site of on elf the worldly's oldest bridges too and we walked on it - hidden though it is by green houses and poly tunnels.

As you have ben here you'll know what I mean about Turkish ambivalence to their history - watching the rubbish pile up as they take your money!

Bye for now.

T
 
Today’s epic drives….

You don’t find these in the EU…greengrocer fag in hand

Cheese in a lamb skin

The dried-up river bed which used to see three rivers flowing into it, 250-300 m wide and five - six deep!

One of our four local mountains.

Our 1945 British military Jerry can, filled up and ready to go.
 

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Hi fellow sufferers! We are departing the Antalya region tomorrow, bombed-up and ready to go with the exception of our wash bags and dhobi. In the last ten days we have done almost a thousand km of airport runs and covers 2600km on trips to ancient sites and out of the way places.

Tomorrow we begin the journey to Armenia, via Georgia owing to the continuing enmity and political and diplomatic issues which exist between Armenia and Georgia. We will go north west from the southern coast, via Konya and Kyseri, then Erzincan and Ezerum before hitting the Georgian border. My fingers are crossed for plenty of BP stations, BP Ultimate being the only reliable fuel we have found so far.

Today I was informed at money exchange company that the government is reducing the amounts that such businesses can give for foreign currency, ensuring more hard currency is used during a foreigner's stay....quelle surprise!

I have thousands of words to put on paper about our journey through Turkey and over two thousand pictures, mostly for @Redcoat (Durch) which I will happily be putting online once we go firm in Armenia. In the meantime I will update you with our progress and any interesting anecdotes as we travel to Yerevan over the next eight days. I can't wait!

Whatever you are up to enjoy it, as the Specials said, "it's later than you think."

T x
 
Good morning everybody, and for my Muslim readers Ramadan Kareem or as they say here, Ramazan bayramizim! Trips off the tongue doesn't it? The faux fast is over and business as usual continues with the addition of a week's holiday which began yesterday. So, not unlike Christmas in the west! This is just a quick update to say "hello", with more to follow later, and yes Redcoat, there will be Billys!

Before I return to the Lycians and provide a beautiful tapestry of ancient life some three thousand years ago I will mention our latest two hops, yesterday's being the penultimate before we are teenager/guest free and we hit the road northwards with a dog and two rats as co-drivers. The rats have to wear weighted Bergens when they assist the dog with driving - she can do the gear stick and steering but they need sufficient weight to depress the pedals. Kaspar often falls asleep and is quite insulted when the dog kicks him awake to sit on the brake!

Lancelot was fully laden; the rear full to the ceiling, baggage on the top (why do teenagers need so much kit, particularly perplexing and five people inside, with cool boxes between the passengers feet and the dog, correction, Her Imperial Majesty, stretched across the front passenger's legs with her head sliding ever closer to my left knee, a nose width from the gear stick.

We covered 247 km in five and a half hours, including two breaks along the way. This may seem slow, yet the road was a constant serpentine, flowing along the contours of the coast, mimicking the dry riverbeds which have carved their paths down the mountainsides. The route over the top of the mountains is shorter in both time and distance but we decided to avoid the 1600 metre climb Lancelot did so well four times last week both to reduce the strain on his brilliant engine and to appreciate the incredible Mediterranean views to the south (our left) as we pottered along. Interestingly enough the roads were empty, devoid of crazy overtaking and no stopping at police checkpoints, although we passed through three on our way.

Everybody who was awake in Lancelot had a moment's reflection when we got close to the coastal town of Demre. A steep road takes you down towards the final approach to there city and it is steep and deceptively fast enough to warrant two descending lanes, a double Armco barrier and a five by three metre electrical sign which flashes at you until you are driving at 50 kmph or less. As we came towards the corner a police car appeared to us, on our side of the road, facing up the hill. As we neared we could see a huge gash in the Armco, some six or seven metres wide with disappearing wheel skid marks going over the edge. The wheels dug in two fiercely that they left an impression centimetres into the tarmac. The drop at this point is three hundred meters and sheer.... Gulp. It is impossible to imagine what the last thoughts of the driver were and judging by the skid marks he was unable to jump from the cab. There but for the grace of God go we.

The rest of the journey was uneventful apart from a fault which falls squarely into Eric the Electrical Elephant's bailiwick; stopping for a spot of lunch I was asked by a local if I had jump leads - picture a skinny Turkish guy with 70's Porn 'tash standing in front of me and doing scissoring hand actions accompanied by "akku, akku, buzz, buzz!" So, first use of our industrial jump leads and off he went with them for his friend to give him a boost.

An hour after this all was well and then the battery light came on! On arriving at our destination the GPS tracker reported a battery condition of 12.1 V. I have now driven a further three hundred km and the light has not come back on and is at 14 V plus! Karma....

On a serious note any thoughts? Alternator issues ahead or battery condition? I have no prior Defender experience with batteries...Series I, Range Rover (Classic and Vogue), problems aplenty!

Two delightful days spent in a small house in the countryside surrounded by goats and chickens, an inquisitive Russian Blue cat and a slack-handful of Buckshee dogs that were always very interested in what we were eating, as was the only goat which escaped its night-time tether. Still Poly-tunnels abounding yet no so intensely and a very different atmosphere pervaded there; no modern supermarkets, everybody smiling and waving as you pass and our hosts were delightful old Turkish people who were at pains to ensure our stay was pleasant. The old gentleman even came to the house to wish us bon voyage as he was leaving before we did, dressed as he was in his Sunday best and smiling, showing excellent white teeth. Teeth! awe passed a shepherd on the road the day before, a huge thick-set man, built like a wrestler who clearly lived in his clothes, yet he waved and smiled showing us immaculate and huge teeth as he did so. Wehere we were previously everybody's teeth were less than healthy (ok, clearly an exaggeration and perhaps I am incorrect yet the teeth in the countryside east of Antalya appeared to be better than those east of Fethiye).

With that dear friends I will say goodbye for now and post some pictures shortly. Standby for the next instalment of Lancelot's Lycian journeys.

T
As for the alternator warning light .. just keep on eye on the voltage output on your tracker you will be able too see what the voltage is doing .. more reliably than the charge warning light .. just to see it is not over charging .. or under charging .. other than that .. is it time for another fuel filter change yet ..?? and good too know the light gremlins have been sorted ..
 
As for the alternator warning light .. just keep on eye on the voltage output on your tracker you will be able too see what the voltage is doing .. more reliably than the charge warning light .. just to see it is not over charging .. or under charging .. other than that .. is it time for another fuel filter change yet ..?? and good too know the light gremlins have been sorted ..
Thanks for that @madmechanic 954 your advice has been both useful and invaluable! My team of "trusties" on here have all helped me to eliminate causes of various issues which have been unfamiliar to me.

The voltage has been great in the last few days - the tracker is showing a low of 12.9 V for a short period; as we arrived at our night time destination and driving up a hell of a hill to park (think the Hilary Step on Everest) our host leaped in front of me to "help"...I braked and Lancelot refused to then drive off which caused a number of starts. I am confident all will be well in the morning. Must check the clutch too....

I will change the air and fuel filters in Armenia, along with the diff, TG Box and G Box oils...provided of course that I can remove the filler bolts... Front left brake is squeaking too, the rear discs were replaced before we left Deutschland.

Thanks again.

T
 
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Hi everybody, how is Blighty tonight?

Just a short sitrep as I am chinstrapped. A more detailed report to follow tomorrow night from Georgia (with more pics too).

We are now in Cayeli, east of Trabzon (Trebizond in Chaucer's Knight's Tale, like Aleppo the scene of massacres by Christian Knights...).

In two hops we covered 1284 kilometres, Lancelot was fantastic and our overnight stay will take some beating for sheer awfulness! More to follow on that episode tomorrow!

Today's 640 km sojourn was quite exceptional, beginning at 0445 hrs and taking us through some of the most spectacular and breathtaking scenery I have ever enjoyed, and trust me I have seen a few, to wit, Glencoe, Everest, The Birmingham Bull Ring and the Milton Keynes Bowl. Pictures to follow also.

We saw two "modern" Defenders, an original in Tomb Raider livery, on a fake slope outside a dealership in Kayseri and a couple of souped-up Disco's. Pics of these coming.

Tomorrow we head to the mountains over the border in Georgia.

Enjoy your evenings!

Love Lancelot and his support team er, team of supporters!

T x
 
Hi Chaps!

We made it through Turkish customs with minimal hassle - they wanted me to open the rear door and the roof box but only took a cursory look inside. Then we were split up and I had to pass through the border building as a pedestrian whilst the Chief took Lancelot through. they made her get out numerous times and stood a little too close to her in the fines office (we paid for ourselves and Lancelot for overstaying in Turkey, a common thing), and asked her to open everything again too. She played it stupid and fiddled with the keys and they smiled at her, telling her it was ok. In a room with ten men she was asked if Turks frightened her - she of course said no, all Turks are lovely!

So, today was a short day with only 180 km of driving and even though we spent yesterday evening in the Turkish tea=growing area the change is immense - no more headscarves, no more mosques, different cars (there is a wider spectrum of types and ages here, the front bumper off being de rigour for boy-racers) and the roads area as bad as they were when the Soviet Union first collapsed.

The trees in the forest are plentiful and the rivers are bank-full. We are staying in a mountainside wooden house at 1500m with a barn next door containing five cows, which are milked by hand daily. Tonight we had supper at £5.50 each, more than a fire team could eat; two kinds of bread, pork stew with coriander, fried potatoes, salad, a huge bowl of fresh cream, salted cheese and wine...three litres of the homemade stuff, a cross between paint stripper and cider and the host (around 70?) insisted on boat racing a litre and a half with me - drinking it like schnapps followed by a mouthful of cheese and cream....then came cake and delicious Mal;kan-style coffee. It was just like Bosnia in 92!

Now for some pics from the iPhone....standby!
 
Weather before the 14km tunnel - they stole the blue light idea from Norway, designed to stop drivers nodding off at the wheel.

The landscape after the tunnel; temperature down to below 20 and drizzle from brilliant sun and 26 degrees!

A couple of Discos and an interesting road sign - pronounced “off”!
 

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